brake bleeding - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

pokethesmot · 10-02-2009, 01:35 AM

ok i replaced my rotor and my caliper and i started bleeding my bakes but i think i must be doing something wrong im gravity bleeding them but there is just no way there could be that many air bubbles in that junk i sat there for about a half hour bleeding them and it was the same amount of bubbles every time and my brakes feel supper spongy like the truck stops but not very well at all...i have to stop it just to slow down...so is there any suggestions here on what i might be doing wrong

79gmcc15 · 10-02-2009, 02:14 AM

I remember reading that it can take Hours to do. get your girlfriend to help and get it done in 30 mins. have her pump the brake a bunch of times and then hold it, you open the bleed screw and then close it. make sure she does not let back up when it bottoms out. do that two to three times a wheel and then see how it is.

**old Rusty C10** · 10-02-2009, 09:55 AM

exactly what ^^ said start with the wheel further from the master and work backwards.. unless you opened the rear system or the master ran dry you dont need to bleed the back so just the right front then the left front

mbgmike · 10-02-2009, 12:50 PM

Here is the correct way to bleed or remove fluid vapor from brake lines.
Jack the whole vehicle up on jack stands (or a lift) and remove all four wheels.

install one lug nut at each corner and tighten it up against the rotor surface to limit caliper flex. To limit the flex that you may feel in the pedal.

check your fluid in mc and keep it on the max line.

Begin at the furthest corner from the mc and progress to the driver. RR,LR
RF,RF etc

Install your jar or whatever with clear hose. and place it above the drum /rotor.

Have your wife or whomever apply the brakes 3 times and hold the pedal down. Don't let them release it until you tell them to. Open your bleeder for a couple seconds. Don't leave it open as only a few seconds is needed.

Tell them to release the brakes. Keep doing that until you can see no more bubbles in the hose.

Check your master cylinder.

Keep doing it on all four until your finished and clean up all the bleeders with fluid and then check for leaks..

check you pedal and it should be firmer. If it is still mushy it may still be pads that are tapered or other brake component problem. Recheck you bleeders for leaking.

Put all your wheels back on and level the car , leave it off and apply the brakes a number of times.

You should be good to go.

I know you probably know this but sometimes people don't. If you still have a problem with soft pedal there could be problems elsewhere.

Many times soft brakes are not caused by air leaks. It can be from fluid vapor being released when the fluid is being compressed. brake fluid can get over 300deg for most street cars. It doesn't take much vapor to lose efficiency.

LONGHAIR · 10-02-2009, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbgmike

install one lug nut at each corner and tighten it up against the rotor surface to limit caliper flex. To limit the flex that you may feel in the pedal.

I would love to see an explanation of this one......

mbgmike · 10-02-2009, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

I would love to see an explanation of this one......

Straight out of GMI

**old Rusty C10** · 10-02-2009, 05:52 PM

thats for a front wheel drive car not for a truck like ours

mbgmike · 10-02-2009, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old Rusty C10

thats for a front wheel drive car not for a truck like ours

its for disc brakes

3r!c84 · 10-02-2009, 06:36 PM

not for hub type rotors

Prerunner1982 · 10-02-2009, 06:43 PM

I recently replaced the pads and rotors on my Jeep Cherokee and had to bleed the brakes myself. The best way I have found to do it is to get a small jar (I cut the top off of an old brake fluid bottle) and a piece of hose. Connect the hose to the bleeder valve, put some brake fluid in the jar. Insert hose into jar and make sure the end is submerged. Open bleeder and pump the brakes slow and easy. It worked great.

Since you replaced the caliper and really opened up the system I would bleed all 4 corners to be on the safe side.

mbgmike · 10-02-2009, 07:10 PM

I think I will just quit posting anything

pokethesmot · 10-02-2009, 08:56 PM

i tried the pumping 3 times and then holding the pedal down while i loosen the screw but no air came out then i let it gravity bleed and tuns of air came out my gf said that as soon as i loosened the bleed screw the pedal hit the floor so i guess ima give gravity bleeding another try or try the pumping it with the hose in a jar thing and thanks for the help every one

3r!c84 · 10-02-2009, 08:59 PM

is it full of brake fluid?
and is the lid on?

pokethesmot · 10-02-2009, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3r!c84

is it full of brake fluid?
and is the lid on?

its full of brake fluid and the lid is on except when i gravity bleed it cuz it makes it easer to fill up

**old Rusty C10** · 10-03-2009, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbgmike

I think I will just quit posting anything

Mike i hope you are not offended at what I said but i can't for the life of me figure out what a lug nut is going to do on a rotor that is fixed in place by the lock nut on the front of the spindle... the only time there is play in a rotor is in the front wheel drive where it lays on the lugs and is held in place by the wheel and the caliper this could also be said of a rear disc system but again neither of these is standard on our trucks

Id be curious to find out what the reasoning is behind this... hey im 45 and am willing to learn anytime.. there was no sarcasm at all in my post

pokethesmot · 10-03-2009, 12:27 PM

welp it looks like ima go out side and try brake bleeding again lol

pokethesmot · 10-03-2009, 02:37 PM

yeah ima have to get some one to do it that has a vacuum bleeder cuz the only thing that looks like its workin is gravity bleeding and i sat out there for an our with tons of bubbles and still no progress

powerdriver 1958 · 10-03-2009, 02:45 PM

Make sure you have the rear brakes adjusted up also,that will affect pedal height

donut · 10-03-2009, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prerunner1982

I recently replaced the pads and rotors on my Jeep Cherokee and had to bleed the brakes myself. The best way I have found to do it is to get a small jar (I cut the top off of an old brake fluid bottle) and a piece of hose. Connect the hose to the bleeder valve, put some brake fluid in the jar. Insert hose into jar and make sure the end is submerged. Open bleeder and pump the brakes slow and easy. It worked great.

Since you replaced the caliper and really opened up the system I would bleed all 4 corners to be on the safe side.

You can also get a little 1 man brake bleeder setup (I think it's in the HELP section @ most chain parts stores) Teeny little bottle with a hose, same principle as Prerunner mentioned. Saved me a lot of hassle when I did a caliper, brake lines, and wheel cylinders in one shot. I also took my time doing it. I did all four corners, topped off the fluid, waited a few hours, did it again. (my thinking on waiting was for the smaller bubbles settle out.)

pokethesmot · 10-03-2009, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by powerdriver 1958

Make sure you have the rear brakes adjusted up also,that will affect pedal height

how do i do that lol

powerdriver 1958 · 10-03-2009, 09:06 PM

Sorry that should have been make sure the REAR brakes are adjusted up snug

powerdriver 1958 · 10-03-2009, 09:19 PM

Poke,the best way for you to do it is pull the rear drum off and turn the adjuster a couple of clicks then slide the drum back on.do that until the drum has a real small drag on it.you will be some what close

pokethesmot · 10-03-2009, 10:40 PM

thanks every one for the help and i should have my brakes bleed soon cuz i got a guy with a vacuum bleeder thats gunna do it lol and i think i probly should adjust my rear brakes cuz when im in 4lo my back wheel spins lol

pokethesmot · 10-04-2009, 05:22 PM

well i tightened up one wheel and wow what a difference thanks again everyone ima be doin the other one in just a little bit

74 C-30 · 10-04-2009, 05:37 PM

just a trick to share if youre having issues bleeding brakes, or if you cant get the bleeders open, take the cap off the master cylinder and with your hand, ease the brake pedal to the floor, then jerk it back up quickly. thats how I did mine thanks to years of new england rust raising hell with the bleeders and brake lines

10-02-2009, 01:35 AM	#1
pokethesmot profeshinaly unimployed Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: hazlehurst, GA Posts: 1,232	brake bleeding ok i replaced my rotor and my caliper and i started bleeding my bakes but i think i must be doing something wrong im gravity bleeding them but there is just no way there could be that many air bubbles in that junk i sat there for about a half hour bleeding them and it was the same amount of bubbles every time and my brakes feel supper spongy like the truck stops but not very well at all...i have to stop it just to slow down...so is there any suggestions here on what i might be doing wrong __________________ my ride click here my myspace "having mud flaps is like asking for a smaller trophy"

10-02-2009, 02:14 AM	#2
79gmcc15 Gettin It One Pice At A Time Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: everett, washington Posts: 2,688	Re: brake bleeding I remember reading that it can take Hours to do. get your girlfriend to help and get it done in 30 mins. have her pump the brake a bunch of times and then hold it, you open the bleed screw and then close it. make sure she does not let back up when it bottoms out. do that two to three times a wheel and then see how it is. __________________ RIP ELJAY Work In Progress 1979 GMC C1500 Trailering Special. Getting the truck done, one piece at a time. “You can tell a lot about a fellow’s character by his way of eating jellybeans.”Ronald Reagan “I don’t know the key to success but I know the key to failure is trying to please everybody.” Bill Cosby Last edited by 79gmcc15; 10-02-2009 at 02:15 AM.

10-02-2009, 09:55 AM	#3
old Rusty C10 Robert Olson Transport Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: recent transplant to NC USA Posts: 20,313	Re: brake bleeding exactly what ^^ said start with the wheel further from the master and work backwards.. unless you opened the rear system or the master ran dry you dont need to bleed the back so just the right front then the left front __________________ Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!!

10-02-2009, 12:50 PM	#4
mbgmike Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Pasadena,Tx /Pto Pta DR Posts: 5,415	Re: brake bleeding Here is the correct way to bleed or remove fluid vapor from brake lines. Jack the whole vehicle up on jack stands (or a lift) and remove all four wheels. install one lug nut at each corner and tighten it up against the rotor surface to limit caliper flex. To limit the flex that you may feel in the pedal. check your fluid in mc and keep it on the max line. Begin at the furthest corner from the mc and progress to the driver. RR,LR RF,RF etc Install your jar or whatever with clear hose. and place it above the drum /rotor. Have your wife or whomever apply the brakes 3 times and hold the pedal down. Don't let them release it until you tell them to. Open your bleeder for a couple seconds. Don't leave it open as only a few seconds is needed. Tell them to release the brakes. Keep doing that until you can see no more bubbles in the hose. Check your master cylinder. Keep doing it on all four until your finished and clean up all the bleeders with fluid and then check for leaks.. check you pedal and it should be firmer. If it is still mushy it may still be pads that are tapered or other brake component problem. Recheck you bleeders for leaking. Put all your wheels back on and level the car , leave it off and apply the brakes a number of times. You should be good to go. I know you probably know this but sometimes people don't. If you still have a problem with soft pedal there could be problems elsewhere. Many times soft brakes are not caused by air leaks. It can be from fluid vapor being released when the fluid is being compressed. brake fluid can get over 300deg for most street cars. It doesn't take much vapor to lose efficiency. Last edited by mbgmike; 10-02-2009 at 12:54 PM.

10-02-2009, 05:52 PM	#7
old Rusty C10 Robert Olson Transport Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: recent transplant to NC USA Posts: 20,313	Re: brake bleeding thats for a front wheel drive car not for a truck like ours __________________ Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!!

10-02-2009, 06:36 PM	#9
3r!c84 Badass Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: lox. fl Posts: 4,586	Re: brake bleeding not for hub type rotors __________________ Think outside the box? -84c10 (1stcar)→My Build← -00 Saturn 5spd drop a gear and disappear! 1/4:13:90

10-02-2009, 06:43 PM	#10
Prerunner1982 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Edmond, OK Posts: 5,904	Re: brake bleeding I recently replaced the pads and rotors on my Jeep Cherokee and had to bleed the brakes myself. The best way I have found to do it is to get a small jar (I cut the top off of an old brake fluid bottle) and a piece of hose. Connect the hose to the bleeder valve, put some brake fluid in the jar. Insert hose into jar and make sure the end is submerged. Open bleeder and pump the brakes slow and easy. It worked great. Since you replaced the caliper and really opened up the system I would bleed all 4 corners to be on the safe side. __________________ Jon 1982 Chevy Silverado 350/th350.... RETIRED 1993 Jeep XJ 2 door(Cherokee) 4wd 4.0ltr/AX-15 (5spd)/NP231 .... Oklahoma Roll Call

10-02-2009, 07:10 PM	#11
mbgmike Registered User Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Pasadena,Tx /Pto Pta DR Posts: 5,415	Re: brake bleeding I think I will just quit posting anything

10-02-2009, 08:56 PM	#12
pokethesmot profeshinaly unimployed Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: hazlehurst, GA Posts: 1,232	Re: brake bleeding i tried the pumping 3 times and then holding the pedal down while i loosen the screw but no air came out then i let it gravity bleed and tuns of air came out my gf said that as soon as i loosened the bleed screw the pedal hit the floor so i guess ima give gravity bleeding another try or try the pumping it with the hose in a jar thing and thanks for the help every one __________________ my ride click here my myspace "having mud flaps is like asking for a smaller trophy" Last edited by pokethesmot; 10-02-2009 at 08:56 PM.

10-02-2009, 08:59 PM	#13
3r!c84 Badass Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: lox. fl Posts: 4,586	Re: brake bleeding is it full of brake fluid? and is the lid on? __________________ Think outside the box? -84c10 (1stcar)→My Build← -00 Saturn 5spd drop a gear and disappear! 1/4:13:90

10-03-2009, 12:27 PM	#16
pokethesmot profeshinaly unimployed Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: hazlehurst, GA Posts: 1,232	Re: brake bleeding welp it looks like ima go out side and try brake bleeding again lol __________________ my ride click here my myspace "having mud flaps is like asking for a smaller trophy"

10-03-2009, 02:37 PM	#17
pokethesmot profeshinaly unimployed Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: hazlehurst, GA Posts: 1,232	Re: brake bleeding yeah ima have to get some one to do it that has a vacuum bleeder cuz the only thing that looks like its workin is gravity bleeding and i sat out there for an our with tons of bubbles and still no progress __________________ my ride click here my myspace "having mud flaps is like asking for a smaller trophy"

10-03-2009, 02:45 PM	#18
powerdriver 1958 Kid's Mechanic Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Kansas City Posts: 8,241	Re: brake bleeding Make sure you have the rear brakes adjusted up also,that will affect pedal height Last edited by powerdriver 1958; 10-03-2009 at 09:08 PM.

10-03-2009, 09:06 PM	#21
powerdriver 1958 Kid's Mechanic Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Kansas City Posts: 8,241	Re: brake bleeding Sorry that should have been make sure the REAR brakes are adjusted up snug

10-03-2009, 09:19 PM	#22
powerdriver 1958 Kid's Mechanic Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Kansas City Posts: 8,241	Re: brake bleeding Poke,the best way for you to do it is pull the rear drum off and turn the adjuster a couple of clicks then slide the drum back on.do that until the drum has a real small drag on it.you will be some what close Attached Images Last edited by powerdriver 1958; 10-03-2009 at 09:28 PM.



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10-03-2009, 10:40 PM	#23
pokethesmot profeshinaly unimployed Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: hazlehurst, GA Posts: 1,232	Re: brake bleeding thanks every one for the help and i should have my brakes bleed soon cuz i got a guy with a vacuum bleeder thats gunna do it lol and i think i probly should adjust my rear brakes cuz when im in 4lo my back wheel spins lol __________________ my ride click here my myspace "having mud flaps is like asking for a smaller trophy"

10-04-2009, 05:22 PM	#24
pokethesmot profeshinaly unimployed Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: hazlehurst, GA Posts: 1,232	Re: brake bleeding well i tightened up one wheel and wow what a difference thanks again everyone ima be doin the other one in just a little bit __________________ my ride click here my myspace "having mud flaps is like asking for a smaller trophy"

10-04-2009, 05:37 PM	#25
74 C-30 Dually Pride Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: NH Posts: 540	Re: brake bleeding just a trick to share if youre having issues bleeding brakes, or if you cant get the bleeders open, take the cap off the master cylinder and with your hand, ease the brake pedal to the floor, then jerk it back up quickly. thats how I did mine thanks to years of new england rust raising hell with the bleeders and brake lines __________________ If I have to explain, you wouldn't understand. '74 Chevy C-30 350/4 speed/dually '94 Ford Ranger

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