Need help removing drums from Dana 60 rear - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

davepl · 07-15-2012, 09:31 PM

I'm pulling the rear end as an assembly and it looks like I need to disconnect the parking brake cable, which in turn means (I assume) that I need to get the drums off.

This is my first fully-floating rear end (Dana 60 3/4 ton) so I'm not sure if I need to remove the axles... I'm doubting it but from searching it looks like you might have to. The shop manual doesn't seem to differentiate much among models except for the adjust access hole location.

Can anyone tell me if I need to pull the axles/hubs? Or should I just be able to pull the drums? They're not coming off easily, at least.

As a second question, when spinning the pads back with the adjuster, which way do you spin the teeth? Towards the ground or away from it? Same on both sides?

Thanks!
Dave

davepl · 07-15-2012, 10:39 PM

I'll answer my own post in case it helps someone searching later...

To get the drums off, you need to remove the two large slot-headed screws that secure the drum in place (in amongst the lug studs on the face of the drum). No need (unless everything is really seized up I suppose) to remove the axles or anything fancy.

The adjusters on the 3/4 ton (Dana 60, anyway) are inboard. With the plugs out (I just pushed them in and retrieved them later) you need one screwdriver to hold the "lock bar" out of the way. On the passenger side you need to rotate the teeth down towards the ground. I didn't need to do the driver's side, it all just came off. If you're going the wrong direction with the adjuster you'll find the shoes start to grab the drum and the drum won't rotate by hand anymore (assuming it did before you started).

If you're just trying to remove the e-brake cable, you -might- get lucky by pushing it firmly inwards, but you'll likely need to pull the drum to get in there and unhook it as I did.

vectorit · 07-15-2012, 11:44 PM

Couldn't have said it better myself

Glad you got things straightened out.

**special-K** · 07-16-2012, 05:54 AM

You can also disconnect the cables under the truck and not touch the axles. Just remove them with the axles. That's what I usually do.

07-15-2012, 09:31 PM	#1
davepl Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Redmond, WA Posts: 6,332	Need help removing drums from Dana 60 rear I'm pulling the rear end as an assembly and it looks like I need to disconnect the parking brake cable, which in turn means (I assume) that I need to get the drums off. This is my first fully-floating rear end (Dana 60 3/4 ton) so I'm not sure if I need to remove the axles... I'm doubting it but from searching it looks like you might have to. The shop manual doesn't seem to differentiate much among models except for the adjust access hole location. Can anyone tell me if I need to pull the axles/hubs? Or should I just be able to pull the drums? They're not coming off easily, at least. As a second question, when spinning the pads back with the adjuster, which way do you spin the teeth? Towards the ground or away from it? Same on both sides? Thanks! Dave __________________ 1970 GMC Sierra Grande Custom Camper - Built, not Bought 1969 Pontiac 2+2 427/390 4-speed Coupe 1969 Pontiac 2+2 427/390 4-speed Convertible

07-15-2012, 10:39 PM	#2
davepl Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Redmond, WA Posts: 6,332	Re: Need help removing drums from Dana 60 rear I'll answer my own post in case it helps someone searching later... To get the drums off, you need to remove the two large slot-headed screws that secure the drum in place (in amongst the lug studs on the face of the drum). No need (unless everything is really seized up I suppose) to remove the axles or anything fancy. The adjusters on the 3/4 ton (Dana 60, anyway) are inboard. With the plugs out (I just pushed them in and retrieved them later) you need one screwdriver to hold the "lock bar" out of the way. On the passenger side you need to rotate the teeth down towards the ground. I didn't need to do the driver's side, it all just came off. If you're going the wrong direction with the adjuster you'll find the shoes start to grab the drum and the drum won't rotate by hand anymore (assuming it did before you started). If you're just trying to remove the e-brake cable, you -might- get lucky by pushing it firmly inwards, but you'll likely need to pull the drum to get in there and unhook it as I did. __________________ 1970 GMC Sierra Grande Custom Camper - Built, not Bought 1969 Pontiac 2+2 427/390 4-speed Coupe 1969 Pontiac 2+2 427/390 4-speed Convertible

07-15-2012, 11:44 PM	#3
vectorit What? Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 7,617	Re: Need help removing drums from Dana 60 rear Couldn't have said it better myself Glad you got things straightened out. __________________ Chris 1968 K20 Suburban 1972 K10 LWB PU

07-16-2012, 05:54 AM	#4
special-K Special Order Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mt Airy, MD Posts: 85,859	Re: Need help removing drums from Dana 60 rear You can also disconnect the cables under the truck and not touch the axles. Just remove them with the axles. That's what I usually do. __________________ "BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~



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