What should it cost to shorten a driveshaft?

[Rust-O-Matic]

What is a reasonable cost to shorten the driveshaft in my '66 C20? It's a 2 piece shaft, and I need a couple of inches cut out of the rear half so it fits the 14 bolt I just swapped in.

I called Inland Truck in Kansas City this morning, and they quoted me $270 to cut it, balance, and slap a new center bearing on (which I would provide). I don't wanna sound like a cheapskate, but that seems a little steep.

What do you guys think? I'm open to suggestions of other shops to call too, if anyone knows a good one in the KC or St. Joe area.

[mongocanfly]

That's close to what I paid to get my 2pc shaft shortened....they told me the extra cost was in setup to balance a 2pc.....they will need both pieces together to balance it...

Also..
I had a 1pc shaft built new and a new spline section put on another 1pc shaft ,and another 1pc cleaned up and all 3 balanced with new ujoints....gave around 800 for all that

[chevy_mike]

Local shop just made me a new 1 piece shaft for my panel (which is the same as a short bed length). It was $300 with new tube, ends and u-joints. I supplied the slip yoke as it was not a standard GM one. $270 for a two piece is about right but make sure you get new u-joints as you don't want to do that later.

[jayoldschool]

If I had to do it, I wouldn't put the money into shortening a stock skinny shaft. I'd grab a fat aluminum one piece out of a late model GM, have it shortened, and the correct conversion yokes installed.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Call North Manufacturing in K.C. It is a mom & pop drive shaft co. They do a lot of over the road Semi driveshaft work. He built me an aluminum shaft for my 56 when I put a T-5 in it.
George

[rickywideglide]

I had my 2 piece driveshaft shortened on my 64 c20 for around 180.00, local shop that works on big trucks ,also made new u bolts for my axle,r and s spring out of Bladensburg,md

[Rust-O-Matic]

Sounds like maybe $270 isn't far out of line then. I asked about just having them build me a new one, and they quoted $600-700. Seems like the two piece variety runs about twice the cost of a single piece shaft.

I just replaced u-joints about 2 years ago, and took it to North Manufacturing to have the balance checked, as I was having a vibration issue I was trying to sort out. I grew up in that area, and decided I'd rather my money go to a mom n pop place than a chain like Inland.

I musta caught him on a bad day, because he raised the price when I showed up to get it, didn't put the two halves back together in the correct orientation, didn't touch the weight that was already on there, and damaged the rubber in the brand new center bearing (that I had just put on) with a grinder before smearing an unwanted rattle can paint job on it.

But, I digress. I appreciate you guys' input.

[69 C10 LWB]

Have you tried the shaft in your truck yet? I pulled an Eaton out of my 65 C30 and the factory driveshaft fit fine with my 14 bolt.

[Rust-O-Matic]

Yeah, I put it into place and it's just a little too long. Like maybe 1 1/2". I need to take some more measurements.

[nsb29]

Dennysdrivelines.com call this place and get a quote on your one piece driveline they do excellent work and had the best price they built my new driveshaft with splicer U joints guaranteed I couldn’t break it for less than the local shop wanted to modify my old one

[Rust-O-Matic]

Just in case anybody in the KC area stumbles on this thread in the future, I found a place in Independence called Gears Unlimited that quoted me $150 to shorten, balance, and slide the new center bearing on. I'm gonna give them a shot early next week. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

[Backpayne]

I thought $100 was expensive! Guess I shouldn't complain.

I will say that the damn center bearing is a pain in the ass without a press. Damn.

[bsarts]

I've had success twice with just cutting the yoke off of the end of the shaft nice and square and welding it back on, just take your time,mark the location of the weight and tack it on rearward from where it was. Once you cut off the shaft make sure it's perfectly square, then when you slide the shoulder of the yoke up against it, it's there. Obviously, mark the indexing of the yoke also.....

A little heat might help with the bearing installation.

[nsb29]

I have shortened a lot of driveshaft by cutting them with a pipe cutter. which will give you a square shoulder, make sure it is properly clocked then weld it back on that is basically what a shop does. It works very well as long as your shaft doesn’t need balanced

[Rust-O-Matic]

I will say that the damn center bearing is a pain in the ass without a press.

Yeah, I do have a press, but don't have the correct plates to slip under the bearing, so it's still a little tricky. I just put the current bearing on there a couple summers ago, but the rubber is already cracked and falling apart. Presumably because it's been sitting outside in the sun with no bed floor in it ever since.

It works very well as long as your shaft doesn’t need balanced

This is my main concern. Cutting a pipe and welding it back together isn't brain surgery, but I'm concerned it's already out of balance since the guy at North Manufacturing didn't index the two halves back together correctly.

Every shaft I have ever seen has the yokes clocked 90 degrees out of phase from each other to cancel vibration. When I got it back from that yahoo, the two halves were off a couple of splines, making the yokes more like 40 degrees off. And the original weight hadn't been touched. So I'm fairly confident its already out of balance and I got screwed on that deal.

[Rust-O-Matic]

Gears Unlimited did a nice job and had it ready to roll the same day. They seem like a good company to deal with.

Now I just need to work on my measuring abilities... I had them cut it about 5/16" - 3/8" shorter than I should have. It looks like it will still work though, it just won't slide quite as far into the transmission as it used to be and the center carrier will need to be slid back about as far as the slotted bolt holes will allow.

It's always something...

[nsb29]

She will never know the difference

[Softpatch]

Be taking My two piece driveline in this week for the 66 LB
to get 3" added and Front yoke converted from T-400 To 4L80E

The Driveline work will probably more $$ then paid for this truck
I hope I don't have to sell a Kidney for it
......................don't have a good feeling about this
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=789617
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[Rust-O-Matic]

It seems to vary widely shop to shop, so maybe you'll find a reasonable place. Man that overdrive sure would be nice. Sounds like a big improvement.

[Softpatch]

I just got my two piece drive shaft back from Tacoma Drivelines NW
and couldn't be happier
To have them legthen my shaft 3"+
and change the front snout from a TH400 To my 4L80E snout
They Put a new Shaft (tube ) on the front shaft and replace the carier
$253 after Taxes out the door
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....Sp
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