How effective is Vintage Air in the Blazer?

[argonaut]

I'm debating between a few options for adding AC to my non-AC Blazer, and I'm hoping that I can get some input from folks here who have experience using them.

Option 1) Piece together a factory installed AC system.

I already have several parts but still need more. I like that this system is integrated, keeps the cabin uncluttered, and allows proper integration of vent air and recirc air. But I think this option might be as much or more costly than buying a new system. My question is, how effective is the factory AC at cooling down the blazer, given its larger cabin area and less than stellar insulation? Do you use R-22 or R-134A?

Option 2) Refurbish my GM dealer option AC system.

My blazer was ordered with AC, but with the dealer installed, under-dash option. I like that it was an "original" part and fits decently well. I like that this setup keeps the original heater, with the core in the hot engine compartment, and the coil stays in the passenger cabin.
Maybe I can assemble a sanden compressor and new condenser/dryer/lines etc. from Vintage Air or Old Air. This seems like is would be the cheapest option so long as my valve is functional.

Option 3) Install the Vintage Air Sure-Fit kit.

I like the simplicity of doing this, but I worry about the following:
a) is the size of the heater core big enough that is can properly heat the cabin when its freezing out?
b) is the coil size enough to cool the Blazer cabin? I assume it works well for a pickup with a small cabin, but I'm skeptical about the blazer.


I'd like to hear advice and input. Thanks!

[Jesse B.]

I have a Vintage Air in my 1969. My opinion is that both the heat function and the A/C function are acceptable for my uses, but they are not overwhelming effective. I'll give you some examples. I live in the Central Valley of California, so it does not get too cold, and I do not need a lot of heat, but on mornings when it is about 32* I could use more heat in the cab. On 110* days the A/C system is not enough to keep up. By that I mean I have to be wearing shorts and a t-shirt to stay comfortable in the cab. It is better than nothing, that is for sure. It is significantly cooler on the inside than outside, but you will not get it down to 65*-70* on the inside. On 100* degree days, it is just enough. If your avatar is correct, and you live in Long Beach, CA, I think you would be happy with the system. I do not think you get a lot of snow on the beach. : )

[DeadheadNM]

I’d vote to refurbish the dealer installed unit. It’s already there so less fuss versus installing an entirely new system and has a cool/correctness factor that Vintage Air won’t match.

[argonaut]

Originally Posted by Jesse B.

I have a Vintage Air in my 1969. My opinion is that both the heat function and the A/C function are acceptable for my uses, but they are not overwhelming effective. I'll give you some examples. I live in the Central Valley of California, so it does not get too cold, and I do not need a lot of heat, but on mornings when it is about 32* I could use more heat in the cab. On 110* days the A/C system is not enough to keep up. By that I mean I have to be wearing shorts and a t-shirt to stay comfortable in the cab. It is better than nothing, that is for sure. It is significantly cooler on the inside than outside, but you will not get it down to 65*-70* on the inside. On 100* degree days, it is just enough. If your avatar is correct, and you live in Long Beach, CA, I think you would be happy with the system. I do not think you get a lot of snow on the beach. : )

Jesse,
Thanks for the input. Long Beach isn't too bad. But I do travel around the southwest and as you mentioned it'll see 100+ days in the summer in the inland valleys, as well at 32 or below up in the mountains in the winter. So I want to make sure the system can keep up. And I certainly don't want to go backwards and give up good heater functionality.

I was out wheeling at in the local mountains in the middle of the night a couple months back. It was probably around 40F out and the heater wasn't overwhelmingly hot. I think i need to better seal up the system and maybe insulate the floors, doors and bed sides.

[hemi43]

Worst thing I ever did on my build was put in air. Was a waste of money because I only run a Softopper. The BTU rating is less than the factory unit if I recall, and it just doesn't not have enough capacity to cool the truck. It helps a bit, but not worth the cost IMHO.

[argonaut]

Originally Posted by hemi43

Worst thing I ever did on my build was put in air. Was a waste of money because I only run a Softopper. The BTU rating is less than the factory unit if I recall, and it just doesn't not have enough capacity to cool the truck. It helps a bit, but not worth the cost IMHO.

That is what I really want to know: how many BTU per unit time each of these options provides. But I don't think I can get that for the factory or dealer installed options so...

[cleszkie]

My Vintage Air system blows good and cold in the summer and blows hot in the winter. However, this only applies to the driver and passenger. Anyone in the back seat gets much less of the benefit. I have considered plumbing my center vent to a duct that outlets in the rear. However, I currently have a 5000 BTU window A/C mounted in my slide in camper that I can run off a generator while I drive, so the duct modification has gone to the back burner.

It should be noted that the effectiveness of the A/C and heat will be greatly improved if you properly insulate your truck. I added fat mat everywhere inside the tub and doors, carpeting over that, and heat shields on the firewall inside the engine bay and tranny tunnel, and between the muffler and floor. This has helped a lot.

[CG]

This is an interesting thread. Close to all you see on the board are I just put Vintage Air in my ride. I never considered that while it might be fine for a truck cab, a blazer and especially a burb might need better cooling than an aftermarket.

[hemi43]

I've installed" Vintage air" as well as "Old Air" systems in the past, and by far the Vintage Air is better quality. They work great in an enclosed sedan, but I should have known better to use it on a truck with canvas for sides and roof. DUH, what was I thinking?
I still believe a factory system will be far superior to anything aftermarket. The only advantage to aftermarket is the size of the unit is WAY smaller than factory, and is a much neater install especially under the hood. The evaporator alone should be a dead giveaway that it wont be as efficient because it's half the size of the original.

[mister.freeze]

sub'd

[Blazerowner]

I went with Vintage air but haven’t had it up and running. I live in the valley so the most extreme cold is 30-40 and heat up to the 100s here and there But that’s not too many days. For me I wanted the smooth firewall and it was hard to remove the old system but that was my deciding factor. Especially since it was operational. I also swapped in an ls3 so I wanted it to be an easy adapt of the new. The old system will out perform if you can keep it and restore it. There’s drawbacks to both. Space vs performance.

[argonaut]

Originally Posted by Blazerowner

I went with Vintage air but haven’t had it up and running. I live in the valley so the most extreme cold is 30-40 and heat up to the 100s here and there But that’s not too many days. For me I wanted the smooth firewall and it was hard to remove the old system but that was my deciding factor. Especially since it was operational. I also swapped in an ls3 so I wanted it to be an easy adapt of the new. The old system will out perform if you can keep it and restore it. There’s drawbacks to both. Space vs performance.

You don't happen to have any of the old system parts left over do you?
I need the fresh air vent parts that go into the cowl, and the right side interior vent apparatus...among other things.

[argonaut]

Originally Posted by hemi43

The evaporator alone should be a dead giveaway that it wont be as efficient because it's half the size of the original.

This is exactly my concern. I'm not bothered about having a smooth firewall or clean engine compartment...I'm a good old function-over-form engineer. So I want a great big evaporator coil that will keep things cool.

[argonaut]

Originally Posted by cleszkie

My Vintage Air system blows good and cold in the summer and blows hot in the winter. However, this only applies to the driver and passenger. Anyone in the back seat gets much less of the benefit. I have considered plumbing my center vent to a duct that outlets in the rear. However, I currently have a 5000 BTU window A/C mounted in my slide in camper that I can run off a generator while I drive, so the duct modification has gone to the back burner.

It should be noted that the effectiveness of the A/C and heat will be greatly improved if you properly insulate your truck. I added fat mat everywhere inside the tub and doors, carpeting over that, and heat shields on the firewall inside the engine bay and tranny tunnel, and between the muffler and floor. This has helped a lot.

I figured you'd chime in here! But your response only half-counts because you've got the window AC unit in the back camper!
Kidding aside, I should go over there and check out your insulation job one of these days so I can start planning to do similar to mine.

Heat shielding underneath from the exhaust and engine-trans is a great idea. I've been planning to do that on Big Ugly for some time, even have the sheet metal material sitting in the garage waiting to be cut and bent. The floor of these trucks gets ridiculously hot on a long trip in warm weather.

Maybe I also just stuff fiberglass batt insulation back into the doors and behind the rear cargo panels...that's what the previous owner had done.

[Blazerowner]

I doubt it, I sold everything to another member last year. Ill keep you in mind if I ever come across anything.

Originally Posted by argonaut

You don't happen to have any of the old system parts left over do you?
I need the fresh air vent parts that go into the cowl, and the right side interior vent apparatus...among other things.

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by argonaut

Heat shielding underneath from the exhaust and engine-trans is a great idea. I've been planning to do that on Big Ugly for some time, even have the sheet metal material sitting in the garage waiting to be cut and bent. The floor of these trucks gets ridiculously hot on a long trip in warm weather.

Maybe I also just stuff fiberglass batt insulation back into the doors and behind the rear cargo panels...that's what the previous owner had done.

Try this stuff! Cover as much surface as possible especially inside the doors. It insulates and best of all gets rid of all "tin" noise. It's almost identical to Dynamat but at a fraction of the cost. The only difference is Peel&Seal has a bit thinner bitumen. If you Google it you'll probably see a few places saying not to use it, but I'm certain the people behind those comments either sell or install Dynamat.
I did every square inch of my Blazer and it does make a huge difference.

https://www.mfmbp.com/products/mfm-peel-seal-aluminum

[mister.freeze]

how well does bedliner insulate? Is there one that does better than others? Planning on ac this spring (after 20 years without). Entertaining the thought of 2 evaporators...

[paul mora]

Jason. There is not just one thing you can do to make your air system more effective. You start with completely insulating your Blazer whenever you can put in it from and back. My local bed liner person says his system is a great method of providing sound and insulation to any vehicle. Once you get that done you install some kind of insulating mat of your choice. There many on the market depending on how much you want to spend. I use Vintage air in my Blazer I showed you in the photos. Next be sure to have enough vents to let the cold air enter the cab. The simple three vent system you find on the factory system is not enough. If you want to get it colder you can add a small rear air conditioner in the rear. Keep in mind it is a Blazer with a uninsulated roof and air leaks throughout the cab. Remember just point the vents towards the driver and the passenger and you will stay cool.
Paul

[ochre1971]

Originally Posted by cleszkie

My Vintage Air system blows good and cold in the summer and blows hot in the winter. However, this only applies to the driver and passenger. Anyone in the back seat gets much less of the benefit. I have considered plumbing my center vent to a duct that outlets in the rear. However, I currently have a 5000 BTU window A/C mounted in my slide in camper that I can run off a generator while I drive, so the duct modification has gone to the back burner.

It should be noted that the effectiveness of the A/C and heat will be greatly improved if you properly insulate your truck. I added fat mat everywhere inside the tub and doors, carpeting over that, and heat shields on the firewall inside the engine bay and tranny tunnel, and between the muffler and floor. This has helped a lot.

cleszkie, any chance you can expand on the "heat shields on the firewall inside the engine bay and tranny tunnel, and between the muffler and floor." part of this? Pics?