Pulling TH350 Questions?

[YourBuddy'sTruck]

Hello, Everyone.

I have to pull my TH350 to rebuild it. Never pulled one before.
It's a 1970 C20.
I've a 350 pushing a TH350 into a Two Piece Drive Shaft feeding a 14Bolt FF Axle Rear End.

Here's my Step by Step with Questions added....

1 Remove Battery and Chock Wheels as I'll not be in park.
2 Remove Drive Shaft (mark it for proper balancing at reassembly)
Both Shafts and Center Support? Is it possible to leave Yoke in the TH350?
Or pull it and catch the ATF?
3 Disconnect Vacuum Line, Speedo Cable, Shift Linkage, Fill Tube, and Cooler Lines.
4 Disconnect from Cross Member.
5 Support TH350 with Jack and remove Cross Member
6 Remove inspection cover
7 Separate Torque Converter from Flex Plate
8 Unbolt TH350 from Engine and lower to remove

I'm thinking that with the Press/Hammer needed to separate the U Joints, there is no way to do that under the truck?
If that's so, do you install the TH350 Dry?
When do you add fluid to it? And what are the steps for doing so?

And for a really dumb question...
Can I do this in my driveway without a Lift? Can I just jack the truck up to get the TH350 and Floor Jack to slide out?

Please excuse my newbie questions, but I do like learning these things and the work is usually fun once you clear the swear cloud.
I'll be trying to tackle this over the weekend as the weather is finally nice here in Ohio.
Thanks in advance for any input.
Stay Safe!

[truckster]

You'll have to pull the yoke. Catch what you can with a pan. If you're replacing the torque convertor, make sure you add fluid to it before you mate it to the transmission.

You can do it in a driveway. If you've got enough clearance you can do it with a floor jack. Put a piece of lumber under the pan to spread the load. I finally bought a HF transmission jack when I started working on really heavy Ford transmissions. With the TH350 I used to bench-press them into place. One trick I used was to get a pair of long bolts (I think I used 4 1/2 inches) the same thread as the transmission mount bolts. I would cut the head off and cut a slot in the end, then chamfer the cut end. Screw one into each lower bolt hole on the bellhousing. Now you have a guide rod for installing the transmission. Use the slot cut in the end to back it out after you've started the other bolts.

Good luck. Doing it in a driveway is a pain, but it can be done.

[YourBuddy'sTruck]

Thanks, Truckster.
I know about the long bolt/locator trick. That's how I replaced the Flex Plate 4-5 years ago.
Again...thanks for any advice, tips, tricks you all share.
Best Forum I've ever ran across.
Cheers!

[geezer#99]

A couple more.
You need to support the rear end of the motor. Otherwise it’ll sag and the distributor might contact the firewall.
Also when you pull the yoke out just put a ziplock baggie over the tailshaft and secure it extremely well with duct tape.

[HO455]

With a C20 it is likely you have a slider on your rear drive shaft so it may be possible to unbolt the carrier bearing and compress the slider enough the get the yoke off of the output shaft.
If your going to rebuild it I would pull the pan and drain the fluid. It has to come out and it you don't drain it it will find a way to drain itself at a less than optimal time. (That's why my Burban currently has the captivating odor of hypoid gear oil inside it. After this many years you would think I'd learn. )
If your pan doesn't have a drain plug you can use a very sharp punch to make a 1/8" hole to drain the pan with very little mess and then use the hole you punched to install an aftermarket drain plug during the rebuilding process.

[YourBuddy'sTruck]

Thanks for the great Tips, fellas!
Really appreciated.
I've a drain plug in the pan to get most of the ATF out.
I think I'll pull both shafts and replace the Universals while at it anyway.
Cold North East Wind off Lake Erie today, but the sun is shining!

[Myself]

I always mark the location of the rotor and just pull the distributor. That way you have more room to get at the bellhousing bolts AND not worry about the motor tilting backwards. Just pulled the 700r4 out of my S10 Blazer a couple weeks ago......piece of cake!

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by Myself

I always mark the location of the rotor and just pull the distributor. That way you have more room to get at the bellhousing bolts AND not worry about the motor tilting backwards. Just pulled the 700r4 out of my S10 Blazer a couple weeks ago......piece of cake!

S-10's don't have 350ci V8's, the weight of the motor tilting back can tear the rubber in the motor mounts if no support under the oil pan is provided. No need to stress the mounts when a short stack of 2x4's or a small bottle jack will suffice...Mark the drive line location on the rear yoke and simply remove the U-bolts or straps, remove the carrier bearing bolts and slide the slip joint out of the transmission removing the drive line in one piece. Placing a plastic bag with tape or tie wire on the tail housing will prevent a mess. Draining the transmission prior to removal will help.

[YourBuddy'sTruck]

I do have a Bottle Jack and hunk of 2X4 to prop the engine.
I did drain it.
Shot silver spray paint on everything I unbolted to I can see how to line things up when going back together.
Great Tips everyone, Thanks!

Also, in a true moment of irony.....
I had to cut the Cooler Lines as the PO likes to round hex heads into oblong shapes.
The funny part is that I had new steering work done to it when I got the truck and the new connecting rod is straight with no dip in the middle.
It took 2 years, but it finally wore a hole in the lower Cooler Line.
So I ordered new lines.
While waiting for them, I made a split hose and aluminum sheet patch that I put on with 3 hose clamps and it totally sealed it. So I never installed the new lines out of laziness.
The irony is that I just gave my Dad those new lines for his truck about 5 months ago.
So now I gotta get another set! Ha!

[Myself]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

S-10's don't have 350ci V8's.

Both of ours have V8's. Mine that I pulld the 700r4 out of has a high 14 sec 305ci and currently waiting on it's TPI swap.
My wife's is a 350hp 350 std cab shortbed show truck. Both have been left with motor just sitting there on the mounts and no transmission for a month or so at a time with no damage to the mounts.

I'm not saying it can't happen.....just saying it hasn't happened to me.

[YourBuddy'sTruck]

So far I've learned a lot doing this job.
Like the PO really loved zip ties!
And years ago, I bought my Dad a nice Bike life for his Harley.
It paid off to borrow it in lieu of a transmission jack.
Mostly I learned that next time I'll start with a Hammer and Pressure Washer to knock all the crud and rust off everything!