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Probably these. www.xposedvisionz.com
www.killerridez.com I guess I missed this post, but since I started you on this mission, I figured I could help you out. There was an issue of Street Truck that has a Z'ed chassis. If it wasn't them, it was one of the main mags. It has documented pictures of the process. |
Streetrucks had an article covering this on a 65(?) Burb. Work was done by IFCustoms I believe.
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I should check that out. I have all those at home. I will leaf through some Capt. I think I remember the 65 Burb. It had 22's on it, right SCOTI?
Thanks for the info boys, this is what I have been looking for. |
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http://www.ifcustom.com/projects/pro...20suburban.htm I personally feel some of thier work is quite shoddy but I'm sure you know what you're doing. :D |
I was just going to post this picture.
http://www.ifcustom.com/projects/pro...ubframez12.jpg I've done 3 other trucks other than this one, and never needed to Z a frame. I was a certified pipe fitter in UT when I lived out there working at the local power plant. I can weld and do whatever I need to do, just wanted to see there approach. I wouldnt have thought to do it the way they did. I would weld a fish-plate over the frame on the outside and inside AFTER welding it like they did, but that's me. |
I understand the concept of "z"'ing a frame but i was wondering and can't figure out do you have to lower the motor back down? shorter motor mounts so your drive train all lines up again?? or something? And i assume the steering colum would be all at a different angle so you need some joints? Could someone explain what has to be changed AFTER is it "z"'d thanks! :)
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you also cut the front and move it like the back of the fram section you are moving.
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check out the link the fiveeight posted. They have pictures of the front section z'd too.
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PJ Styles, the front frame horns must be lowered the same amount as the 'Z' in the frame (or more if done in conjunction w/a bodydrop). The motor/trans position doesn't change in relation to the immediate framerails it's cradled in, but it does get raised in relation to the body. So you have to make sure you have adequate hood clearance, the trans tunnel has to be clearanced, as well u-joints for the steering column.
And yes @ the time the article was printed it sat on 22's. I'm hoping the article was just covering the basics & that they also went back w/some fish/boxing plates to tie it all together structurally(sp?). |
Yeah PJ, the link has ALOT of pictures. I need to U-joint the steering shaft anyway now. It's hitting the A-arm, just like that one does.
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72 z'd frame pics
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Here are few pic's a friend of mine sent to me of his 72 that he is in the process of z-ing the frame.
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that's a crazy paint scheme. That's not stock is it?
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Here anothter pic
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pic 2
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One more pic
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pic 3
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Last pic
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last pic of inprocess I have
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Let me just say this. Thank You. That is exaclty what my first post was ALL about. :flag: Looks awesome. What size wheel/tire combo is he going with?
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Tire size
Loweredd, I belive the tire size on 72 is 255/45 0r 50 - 17. I do know they are 17x8 up front and 17x9.5 onthe rear. There is a steering column issue her will have to adress by adding some knuckles to the column to avoid the upper control are. The paint onthe truck was something the previous owner dod onthe truck befor Steven bought it. I will find out what tire size he has and advise. Ther is also a hood hingle issue he will be dealing with; most likely go with a Sasche Road sytle hingle to open the hood to clear the tires.
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He's just z-ing to get Super low?
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Z-ed Frame
Yes he just z-ed the fram to ge the truck as low as possible and keep the floor stockwith exception of the enlarged transmission tunnel he will have to do.
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Does he ahve droped spindles ? I think he would.
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Jeff, Whose truck is that?
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Pardon my french but.....
F*#K yea!! That's the plan for the next project.
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What is the average drop you can get by "Z" ing the frame?
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