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-   -   New cab , yeah? (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=721044)

67ChevyRedneck 10-31-2016 05:48 PM

Re: New cab , yeah?
 
That's way easier to tackle. Given the amount of holes for a small area, small patch. Steal that curve from a good spot on your other cab!

bob8619 10-31-2016 05:49 PM

Re: New cab , yeah?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck (Post 7757297)
That's way easier to tackle. Given the amount of holes for a small area, small patch. Steal that curve from a good spot on your other cab!

Why didn't I think of that? Brilliant!

67ChevyRedneck 10-31-2016 05:55 PM

Re: New cab , yeah?
 
I see there's a small one out by itself. That one I would drill out slightly larger so you can see clean metal all around the edge and weld it up.

I fixed the areas around my back window that way:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1441888216

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1444703169

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1444703556

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1475758336

cypressbog 11-01-2016 12:52 PM

Re: New cab , yeah?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by bob8619 (Post 7752980)
What changes are there in the wiring and the pass thru hole?

You will need a 68 underdash wiring harness including fuse block. The 69-72 wiring harness fuse block is different shape because they had to move it over when they went with a foot operated E-brake. If you study both cabs you have, you'll see the difference.

67ChevyRedneck 11-01-2016 01:16 PM

Re: New cab , yeah?
 
Or you can make a template of the hole in your current cab and just cut it on the new cab and weld the old hole up (it's been a long time, I can't remember if it was relocated, or in the same spot and just larger, or both...)

I personally prefer the 69-72 wire harness as they have more fuses/pins. The 67/68 harness sucks. Or you can go with the american autowire classic update kit (awesome kit), but it's like $500. I has a lot more fuses and accessories and you just enlarge the factory hole to install it.

bob8619 11-02-2016 01:47 PM

Re: New cab , yeah?
 
1 Attachment(s)
It was pretty thin in this area, I can see theres a bit of rust inside there and it makes me wonder how many other thin spots are waiting to pop up. I'm just going to do a roof skin replacement. Seems pretty straightforward.
Attachment 1586395

GR8-68 11-02-2016 02:39 PM

Re: New cab , yeah?
 
Better to be safe than sorry, study it and take your time, you could even take the skin off your old cab for practice that way if you mess up its on a junk cab not the good one. ;)

bob8619 11-02-2016 02:50 PM

Re: New cab , yeah?
 
Yep I'm about to go cut the roof off the old one to see what its like.

GR8-68 11-02-2016 03:13 PM

Re: New cab , yeah?
 
should be spot welded but I have never taken one off so wouldn't say for sure. I am sure someone here will chime in on it. :chevy:

bob8619 11-02-2016 03:38 PM

Re: New cab , yeah?
 
Yeah I cut around the perimeter and with an air chisel I can shave the welds of the drip rails. I don't think I'll use the chisel on the new cab though. The bag edge seems a little more tricky though.

bob8619 11-04-2016 08:39 PM

Re: New cab , yeah?
 
1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 1587031


Mine is missing some metal here but my question is, why is it a joint to begin with? Is it meant to flex? I just don't want to patch it up incorrectly if its meant to be a point of flex or something. If its confusing anybody , this is the windshield frame on the bottom towards the passenger side corner.

67ChevyRedneck 11-04-2016 08:50 PM

Re: New cab , yeah?
 
The cab is formed from a crap load of pieces jigged up and spot welded together. It was an area where multiple pieces came together and GM just used seam sealer to close up the holes.


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