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Top 10 Must Have Tools
Howdy from Texas! I cant thank everyone enough for sharing their knowledge here. It has helped me, being the greenhorn that I am, tremendously. Being new to bodywork and mechanics, I need to outfit my workshop with some new gear. I used the search function and didn't find anything like this so here goes. Being new to all aspects of restoration, what do you consider the top 10 most important tools one needs to have on hand to start the process effectively. Once again thanks to everyone in advance.
Hanky the newb |
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For my shop:
1. Air Compressor 2. Bench Vise 3. Drill Press 4. Welding Machine 5. Cutting Torch 6. Floor Jack w/ good stands 7. Engine hoist 8. Good selection of Sockets, Wrenches, etc. 9. Square, Level, Tape Measure 10. 4-1/2" Grinder Just my 2 cents worth but without these tools i could not get anything done as i am sure you would agree. Don't forget to ALWAYS have a Fire Extinguisher within an arms reach too. |
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DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your soda across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar callouses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Yeouw....' ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age, or for perforating something behind and beyond the original intended target object. SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. Caution: Avoid using for manicures. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built for frustration enhancement. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 45 minutes. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 4X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use. RADIAL ARM SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, 'the sunshine vitamin,' which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40- watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. The accessory socket within the base, has been permanently rendered useless, unless requiring a source of 117vac power to shock the mechanic senseless. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids, opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact gun that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 40 years ago by someone at VW, and instantly rounds off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. It is also useful for removing large chunks of human flesh from the user's hands. DAMMIT TOOL: (I have lot's of these) Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'DAMMIT' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need after a really big hammer Sorry, I just couldn't resist |
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I would add:
My very best piece of equipment is a heavy steel work bench (1/2" steel plate top). Weighs several hundred pounds. Bolt the bench vise to that, and get a good large one, Columbian brand if they still make them. TR |
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My favorite tool on the planet = that silly little three-pronged ignition switch bezel removal tool that i never can find when i need it and end up whackin it with two screwdrivers in opposite directions, which works, but if not done perfectly results in a screwdriver inadvertently through the instrument lens....
Yeah, that's my favorite tool. And a hammer. Maybe I'll bunjee cord it to my drill press chuck key so I don't lose it! I NEVER lose that. Either. |
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I can see that I am in for a long ride. Damn, a newb is in way too deep. Please carry on........:devil:
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Duct Tape.... :sexy:
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1. Pressure Washer
2. Floor jack 3. 6" cut off wheel 4. Impact wrench 5. Saws all 6. Socket set 7. Screw Driver set 8. Mig welder 9. DA sander 10. SAFETY GLOVES AND GLASSES !!!!! |
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:haha::haha::haha::haha: Dam that's funny. I know the perfect place to post that. Thanks for the laugh...at least the sprayed diet coke doesn't turn into a sticky mess if I don't get to it all in time. PAPER TOWELL: A paper cloth very useful for turning a neatly contained pool of spilled liquid into random drops all over your shop floor between said pool and the trash can you can't seem to find. :D |
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:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
Thanks for the laugh, great post:metal: Quote:
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When you,ve got what you think you need from above or have access to, the best tools and most important are common sense and patience.
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You can pretty much disassemble your truck with a 9/16" box end. What else would you need?
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All below are for removing the old rusty bolts etc....
Brass Hammer Benzo torch PB Blaster Sawzall Safety Equip (glasses/earplugs/Respirator gloves etc.) Both me and OL Skool can vouch for the Safety stuff. I ground the tip of my finger and Ol Skool tried to remove his finger. Thats a pic he should post for ya. LOL |
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In all seriousness........Harbor freight will be your friend for the following items:
Sanding disks Paint removal wheels (looks like a coral disk $5 at harbor, $16 everywhere else) Clamps Both magnetic and locking Spot weld drill ($4 bucks at HF) A cheap welder if u really don't have the money to buy a decent one Sawzall ($20 at HF. Mine did everything i needed and is still going strong) 4" angle grinders ($20 at HF and theyre disposable LOL) Electric Impact gun ($50 at HF and mine is a champ) Impact socket set If ur gonna stick with Drums get a Brake tool kit Bench Vice Wire Wheels are cheap at HF Jack stands (bought mine at Bi-Mart and they are good ones) Screwdriver set Ratcheting wrenches (bought at Costco $20) A good set of Drill bits Electric Drill / Batt Drill A good Head lamp Compressor and associated tools (blower/Cut off tool/paint guns etc. ) I just built up the stuff I have over a while. I figured I could allow myself a tool per paycheck and I did it that way. Some times I just had to get em coz I really needed em to complete a task. Go on line and print urself off the %20 off coupons for Harbor and that will help. |
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I love the Harbor Frieght 6 inch disk Grinder but we have been using cut off wheels with No gaurd....NOT SMART. My good luck turned bad one day and ran the cut off wheel through my finger all the way to the Bone. I was a combat medic so I threw in a few stitches there in the Gargage....so add Stitching Kit to the List of TOP TOOLS...
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I could have used your skills a few times :lol: Tony Posted via Mobile Device |
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http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9...cfdesdfhjk.jpg |
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#1...EDUCATION!!! you can sharpen your skills by attending your local community college and take a welding course,and PRACTICE..PRACTICE...PRACTICE..that's some of the best money you will ever spend...
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fridge full of beer!!!!!!!!!
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Tap and die sets go a long way when dealing with rusty old hardware.
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nice to know someone other then me is that stupid..welcome to the Club |
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I need to get me the correct tool for the knob bezel nut removal.
Also a Steering wheel pulling tool. Also a miner's headlamp. |
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I have done a ton of work on my old truck with no air compressor, so don't let that hold you back. Do I wish I had one, heck yeah. I would say that a good vise is indispensable. I have used my bench grinder with a wire wheel on one side a TON as well. But number one in all this stuff is safety glasses, I am anal about them, you only get one set of eyes. I have about 4 pair hanging around at various places in my one stall of the two car garage, so there is no excuse to not just reach out and grab a pair and throw them on.
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i just use my neibors garage full of tools!!!
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A good pair of Safety Glasses and the Common Sense to use them.
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A nice 1/2" drive impact. At least 500ft/lbs. Saves so much time and arm effort removing all the rusty bolts.
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mini fridge for the beer:thumbs:
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Here's my thoughts... You need a friend that has a decent set of tools.
If your starting out. 1. Borrow every tool you don't already have once. Then it goes on the list the second time you need it.. 2. As the list grows, buy new less expensive (not cheap) tools that are on the list. 3. Set aside a predetermined amount every payday just for tools, even if it's $5. It grows like a savings account... EVERY payday. Put it somewhere you see daily and throw your change in it from you pocket. 4. Leather gloves (see pic) even with the guard on you can cut your self so pay attention. (I sat down the cut off wheel beside me, while laying on my back and didnt wait for it to stop spinning) 5. Safety glasses (everyone has said it for a reason) 6. Socket sets 1/2, 3/8, 1/4 inch drive. (Remember you can build from a smaller set) 7. Multi-meter 8. Floor jack 9. Ramps 10. Last but not least... patients... A virtue seldom squandered! I made it fun, but meant it all. Good luck! |
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Check out the prices first for what you want to buy and then check out the pawn shops. I have a friend that gets most of his tools from them. He even buys the broken sockets and returns them to get new one's on the one's with lifetime warranty.
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imo, buying tools from a pawn shop is inviting bad karma to your own shop
most tools in pawn shops are stolen, supporting pawn shops is akin to supporting the original tool theft and then bad karma to your shop when tools get re-stolen nice pic, cash3481 |
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I dont have $100 grand in tools but I have worked hard to get them. I buy craftsman (cause I dont do it for a living). No matter what you payed, its yours, so earn it... and take care of them! That pic was a painful week for sure. I sat the cutoff down over my shoulder and let go of it. evidently I pused it away a little and my fingers extended and caught it. I spared everyone the top view but it went halfway down the fingernail. I was VERY disapointed with myself. |
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A lift!
I can't stand laying on my back and working. This old body prefers to stand up and work |
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A big ass air hammer! but make sure its not just a cheap vibrator. Every time i use it i'm grinning ear to ear! nothing like a few taps to blow those pesky frame rivets to smithereens! :D
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No one mentioned a good tool chest to keep all your tools organized and a movable cart. Put all the tools you need for a particular job in the cart and put them up when finished. The time you will save not having to look for a friggin whatchamacallit tool that you used last week will payoff in spades.
Many many many sets of safety glasses with a strap on them. They can and hang around neck when not needed and then easy to put back on without hunting them. I saw the finger pictures but if you ever go to an eye surgeon to get a piece of rusty metal removed it ain't pretty. Then they use a small Dremel tools to scrape out the "Rust Dust" . Believe me the words "this won't hurt much" is forever ingrained in the brain. Stay safe. |
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I will add to the above with this. Spend a little more on hand tools(ratchets, wrenches and so forth) Yu will use them more and better ones just fit better. Buy stufflike jack stands and jacks, pullers and pry bars from HF or NT. Buy only the jackstands that are welded, not the stamped steel ones. I don't buy from pawn shops either, for the above reason and also I find that they usually ask 3/4 or more of the new price.Watch Craigslist, there are some deals to be had. I saw a craftsman chest and cabinet full of tools(most craftsman) for five bills the other day. Probably fifteen hundred if bought new. Add an engraver to your list. A name or phone number may get your stuff returned and it makes it easy to identify if its found in a pawn shop. In the beginning one use tools like ball joint presses and such can be borrowed at most auto parts stores. Safety glasses, ear protection, gloves a machinists apron are all hanging within a step or two of anywhere in my garage. I use them every time, make it a habit just like putting on your pants. Don't forget safety thinking. I had a guy I worked with when I was younger, and I think of Doyle every time I lift something. He would always tell me to "Put on your dress" This was to remind whoever was helping him lift to squat and lift with their legs not their back.
Stay safe, it's really hard to enjoy your hobby when you're in pain. |
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