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Blood, Sweat, and Curses
Well, I've been lurking long enough and am finally digging into my 67 C-10 SWB/Fleetside.
It was my first vehicle back in high school, but it broke down six years ago, and has been sitting in my mother's pasture since. Anyway, time to get to it. |
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I'm sure that'll buff out.
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So when are you going to rescue it and what are your plans .
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It's out and moved to my driveway.
Pics are a little slow cuz they take forever to upload. First I need to get it running so the city can't call it a junk car. Obviously have some body work. Gonna lower it, just haven't decided how much. Relocate the gas tank. Full disk brakes (the drums are why that fender is crumpled) And a whole lot of rust removal/ fixing the PO's cheap fixes from the '90s. Due to funding and work space restrictions this should be interesting. |
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After an hour of bushwacking and 3 cans of hornet spray.
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I was amazed how well the interior looked.
The bench looks about the same as when I got it. Used to have a cover but it rotted off. |
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originally a 327/powerglide by chance?
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Originally it was I6 and 3 OTT.
When I bought it in 2002 it was 327/ 3 OTT. now its 350/ 3 on the floor. And that 3speed's days are numbered. Allegedly the owner before the PO swaped the rear end but who knows at this point. |
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Looks good. Can't wait to see the progress. Are you going to just fix it up, or do some lifting/lowering/motor swapp'n stuff?
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It's gonna be slow, but it will be a full restoration and some custom stuff. Maybe a BBC/T56 down the road.
All my funding is coming from donating plasma. Thus the "blood" in the title. |
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It sounds like you have some history with the pickup which makes it even more interesting to me so I'm subscribing. You might want to yank the front clip and eyeball the frame and see if it looks like it got bent when you wrecked it. |
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Damage assessment.
The front bumper and supports are toast. So are radiator support right fender and wheel well gas tank is a cave of rust front brakes are rusted shut master cylinder might be salvageable but I want to go to full disk rockers need to go cab corners might just need a patch Probably need new hood and tailgate I'm sure there's more hidden in there So let the fun (and cursing) begin. |
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Does anyone know the part number for that piece of string holding in the battery.
It might need a new one. |
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Not sure why those are sideways.
And the grand total of my work space. |
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Get yourself a Imgur account that way you can manage your photos easier and have more options.
http://imgur.com/ |
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I switched which phone I'm using for pictures.
One needed to be upright, and I think the other one needs to be sideways. If that doesn't work I'll try that. And I checked all the measurements on the frame to make sure it wasn't bent. |
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Got the old farm bumper off the back.
Best news yet, after six years of sitting the engine still has a full pan of oil. Yay. Spark plugs came out, marvel mystery oil went in. A week or so of that and we'll see if I can turn the engine by hand. Made sure to label all the plug wires this time. When I swaped in the engine years ago it never occurred to me that I wouldn't remember the order of the top of my head. No teacher like experience. |
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Yay. Pictures aren't sideways anymore.
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Doing some planning while my funds build up again.
I decided that I am going to get the ECE 4/6 drop kit and switch to a full disc brake setup. What I'm still debating is 20" or 18" wheels. I know the 18" will let me run a little taller wall tire, but with this drop how big can I go on each without rubbing the wheel well? I tried searching but the 20"s I saw look like they're running low-pro tires, and that's not my style. Maybe something will just grab my attention. Does the ECE kit take care of the typical fitment issues for newer wheels, or am I still going to need spacers and all that PITA? So far, these are in the lead. 20x8.5, 6 lug. |
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My wife (who knows nothing about mechanics) looked under the hood today.
Her "Is that the engine? It looks so little." Me "So, you're saying I need a bigger engine? I'll get right on that." |
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About your wheels options, it really depends on how much you plan on lowering it. I attached a image of my stock C20. It has 20 inch rims with 31 inch tires and I rub the wheel wells every time I pull into my driveway. If I'm turning to the right the wheel rubs the power steering gearbox. My driveway is pretty stupid though. One of these days I am going to go over to these. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/aew-0589-7888 |
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Your tire size is about the look I'm wanting. Just not sure if I can do it in a 20". Do you have room to space them further out in the wheel well or is that it?
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How much are you thinking of lowering yours? |
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Planning on the ECE 4/6 static drop kit and full disk swap.
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I looked up that kit and found quite a board on here and the first post on the 2nd page has the same kit with 20x8.5s in the front and 20x10s in the rear. If your looking for a little bit more side wall then you could go with 18s.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=471442&page=2 I also found a image on Google that has 16 inch rims with the look I'm going for. |
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Yeah I've read through that board. Most of them that have 20" look like a low pro tire and I'm looking for a little more wall. I guess ill just have to step down to 18" to not rub.
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Here are some images of 16" examples. Will find some 18" ones now if you like.
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Some 18"
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Well, I like the dimensions of the 255/55. I know they're readily available in18 or 20. Just thought the 20 would have a little better aesthetic.
But I have to make some hard turns to get it into its parking spot because that area is actually to the side of my driveway. I don't want to have to constantly touch up my wheel wells from the rub. |
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Got the radiator and fan shroud out. Turns out the radiator pan is toast too.
Someone please tell me their frame has this little flair by the fuel pump. Sorry the light isn't better. |
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Well, I looked at every other 67 build thread and it seems to be the norm.
Does anyone know why it's like that? |
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I know it's been a few weeks, but I have got quite a bit done.
I got the bed pulled off and the wheel tubs off the bed. Now I'm not sure what to do. I had a heck of a time just getting the tubs off because the square holes for the carriage bolts kept striping. I had to cut a lot of the bolts. I know the floor is toast but I'm not sure I can save the sides. Can I even mount it to a new floor with the holes messed up, or is this a "time for a new bed" situation. |
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If you show pictures of the damage with the question we can help you better.
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Well, the largest problem is that a lot of the bolts that hold the floor to the bedside are going to have to be cut. Some I can't get to without cutting the bed supports and bed front to shreds.
Also, if the carriage square in the bedside are rusted out to the point that I have to cut them, is it even possible to reuse them. This is one of the bed mounts I had to cut. I'm afraid they're all going to be that stripped. |
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I'll try to get some better pictures tomorrow.
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The good news is that little space you have to work with is paved, mine isn't. :)
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Don't worry about damaging the bed floor it can be welded, just try to do as little damage as possible.
The repop bed floor is $1,000.00 so keep that in mind. The front panel can be replaced cheap. The bedsides are going to have to be a judgement call after you get it completely apart and down to bare metal so you can evaluate how much damage there is, it may be cheaper to replace them with repops than the cost to repair them. The repops are about $500 apiece. |
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Yeah, im not worried about the floor because it's got a lot of places where its rusted through. If I tried to patch it it would be about 75% patch.
I think my best chance to save the sides is to sacrifice the front and floor. Plus I think it originally had a wooden floor. Haven't decided if I want to go back to wood or redo metal. Also, are the bed supports attached to the bed floor? |
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