Cranks & Cranks.......& Cranks, but won't start!
 

Cranks & Cranks.......& Cranks, but won't start!
What do I do?

Has gas.

Was running when I parked it 2 months ago.

Has a new fuel filter,

New distribiter cap & rotor (whetever it is called)(HEI)

Gas is getting to the carb

No wires are unhooked anywhere that I can tell.

What do I do?

Thanks
I posted this in the engine side, but I am in kind of a hurry.

Process of elimination. Pull the spark plugs and see what condition they are in. Got a Haynes or Chilton manual? They have fairly good troubleshooting guides.

Make sure you have 12V to HEI and then pull spark plug, ground it and see if you get a spark when cranking. If 12v to hEI and no spark, you need to investigate the HEI and module

Spark plugs are brand new, gapped at .045.

I have a manual, but I thought maybe someone had a quicker way of trouble shooting this.

Thanks, I'll start reading.

Ron

make sure your firing order is correct and plug wires are in order on your distibutor. Is it vacuum advance distibutor? Also, check out the "stator" and "resistor" in distributor. Hope this helps~~

just a thought but if it was me i would check the power wire to the distributer and see if it was chewed off by and mice.

I agree with CPNE. If there is 12V to the HEI and no spark, then it is your coil, module, or the pickup coil. Some auto parts stores have the ability to test the module and the coil. As for the pickup coil, It should say in your manual how to test it with an ohm meter. None of these parts are very expensive. Hope this helps

Bobby

I reread your description...make sure your wires on the cap are in firing order with your vacuum advance. (if the vacuum advace points clockwise,put plug firing order clockwise)(counterclockwise,put plug firing order counterclockwise) __unless you knew that already

I've never seen the firing order on any chevrolet motor differ from clockwise.

I was told that Pontiac and Chevy were the same--but the 400 Pontiac I had was counterclockwise~~sorry.

I would check the coil connections and try a different module inside the distributor. I had this problem before, P.O. converted to HEI but left the original power wire to the distributor there and kept burning out modules, changed the wire with one from a '76 truck and haven't had a problem since.

i'd start with oulling #1 plug wire and seeing if you have spark. if you have spark and gas. only other option is no air...check to see if the choke is closed. good luck. kep us informed!

Replaced the module (thing that sits on top of the dist. under the dust cap), and still no luck.

I parked it in december running. It has had a tranny leak is why I have not driven it. I have done nothing to it except put in a tach (which I made sure i hooked it up right to the distributor as well.

WHat now?


Thanks for the help guys!

Ron

what carb are you running? manual choke? i had mine close somehow and the truck wouldn't run. are you getting spark?

Holley 750 , manual choke

Go back to basics. Check for spark at the plugs. If you have spark, then check to see if there is fuel at the carb. Open the choke and look down the carb and pull on the accelerator linkage to see if fuel sprays into the carb. If you have fuel and spark it should at least try to fire up.

If it was running when you parked it and the only thing you have done is add a tach then I would also check out the wiring for that especially where it connects to the distributor. Did you dislodge something or have you got the wires on in the right spot.

This is very basic and it has to be a simple answer.

I cannot seem to get a spark from either on of the spark plug wires at the front of the motor. I have put a screwdriver into the plug and held it close to the wheel well and nothing.

WHat now or what is the next thing I check? Do I run a wire directly from the battery to the one side of the dist where it is currently connected?

Thanks

got to be the wiring.... check and double check that all connections are clean and tight.

There is fuel, because I have seen the spray. Wiring is correct because it says BAT and TACH on the top of the dist. and that is how I hooked it up.

Is the wire that goes into the BAT side hot all the time? If it is, then I can check to see if there is power to that.

Thanks

Ron

Ok, that wire is hot when the key is turned on. So I know there is power getting the that point.

i dont know much about h.e.i, but dont you need 12v in the" crank position" to get it started,and 12v in the "on" position to keep it running? i might be way off but just my .02 jeff

my dad had the same problem with his monte carlo---came to be the stator under the rotor---also check condensor

It possibly could be the pickup coil (under the module) that triggers the distributor module. You can check it with an ohmeter by pulling the 2 prong plug off the left side of the module and checking the resistance on the yellow and green wires. It should read between 140-160 ohms. I am betting it's the module. Like somebody above said, a lot of auto parts stores have the capability to check these to see if they are bad.

TRY STARTING FLUID

I agree with Old Dave!

Have the coil checked as well.

i know when i instaled my tac it did the same think i do not have an hei but i had the wires switched on the coil

Have you unhooked the tach and tried it?

unless im missing what your saying, that is the coil

First, check that you have 12 volts at the coil during startup. Not just in the on position. Then make sure that all the wiring to the coil is hooked to the correct connections ( the coil will not work with the wires in the reverse positions.) If these items are good then disconnect the ground wire from the coil and check for 0 or close to 0 ohms from the end of the wire you disconnected to the engine block. If all these are good then remove all the ignition components and take them to an autoparts store or mechanic to have them tested. Hope this helps a little.

I replaced the module under the rotor and still no luck. I will replace the cap and rotor, just to make sure that is not it. After that, I am not sure which way I will go.

Thanks

Ron

If it were me in your shoes after all you've done so far I would first run a jumper wire from the batt terminal to the battery and try to start her. Then, if it doesn't start, I would pull out a spark plug, plug the wire back on it, ground it( I use a jumper cableon the neg batt terminal on one end and grab the spark plug body on the other end, makes it easier to do by yourself) try to start it and check for sparks. If no sparks, you have eliminated the wiring to the dist. Then I would pull the cap and check the dist wiring, make sure the ground strap was in there, check the module. While you are in there you might spin the engine and make sure the rotor turns, etc.
Also, since you say you installed a tach, you might uninstall it and try the engine then.
Good luck.

Also take off the cap and turn the engine over to see if the rotor is turning. You might have sheared the pin in the shaft.

Ok, lets see.

Rotor turns, not sheared. Noticed that when I got it TDC

Replaced the coil (under the cap)

Replaced the module. (Banana shaped thing)

Pull dizzy and took it apart & replaced the thing around the shaft.

Still will not start.

Still no spark to the plugs.

Lost now!

Thanks

Ron

so this truck was running, you parked it, installed a tach, now it wont start? youve replaced alot of stuff and still wont start!!, id go "double" check that every thing is hooked up correctly. heres a diagrahm and a link http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=13698 jeff

Hey Jeff,

I have done that several times. I cannot get passed the fact of power to the dizzy, but not after. What would cause no spark? I have not replaced the cap & rotor yet, because they are still fairly new. Have hardly any marks on them.

Before I parked it, I was having trouble starting then to, but it started. If it was running, then it would be real hard to restart.

WHen that happened, I replaced the fuel filter.

So, I have no spark after the dizzy. I will replace the cap & rotor to see if that does it, but if it does not, then what else would there be?

Thanks

Ron

When all else seams to fail start at the beginning to resolve problem.
1. Check the Ditributer Rotor, GM rotors were notorious for burning a hole through the rotor, you will have to pull off and look underneath of it, if you see a black burnt spot, this will do it..I have seen new rotors burn through in what seems likee no time at all.
2. Make sure you have voltage to Distributer and disconnect Tach to eliminate possible issue,
3. You replaced coil (new Coil?) under the HEI cap, which there should also be a ground under the coil,
4. Check cap to make sure the center elctrode is there, you should have gotten new one with coil and replaced as well.
5. check when you are cranking engine the 12 volt lead to distributer has voltage while cranking.
6. The plugin from distributer to cap is also plugged in.
7. DOuble check grounds, run jumper cable from frame to engine and Negative battery terminal to frame.
7. If still no spark. You have a serous problem.

:bowtie:

I have the same problem on a SWB in my yard. It ran but poorly so I tried to move it and it just wouldn't start anymore. I cranked and cranked, checked gas -OK, changed module----no spark to plugs but 12V to the dist.'
I think it is the little condenser in the distributor. I had a similar problem 2 years ago and it drove me nuts. It's cheep, easy to change and often overlooked. worth a shot---.
good luck

What does the condenser look like? Is it the round tube looking thing?

Thanks

Ron

Right--it has nothing to do with running on a HEI-it is there for noise filter for radio. Of course if it is grounded out inside it will kill your spark. Just disconnect it and see if it will start. (condenser has a purpose on a points ingnition)