One solution for low hanging exhaust
 

I just couldn't leave well enough alone!! I was ready to pull the frame outside to degrease before taking to the sandblasters, and thought I would try to do something about the low hanging exhaust problem.

I want this truck to sit lower than it did before getting munched. But, the way the exhaust had to pass under the middle crossmember (the one the carrier bearing mounts in), I didn't want to go much lower.

So, here is what I did. I think it should work OK. Material is 1/4" mild steel.

http://usera.imagecave.com/glock35ipsc/dcp_3318.jpg
http://usera.imagecave.com/glock35ipsc/dcp_3319.jpg

Nice job!What size pipe you runnin?

truely trick

hey looks good, and kinda familliar

2 1/4"

GMTA!!!

Where did you find flat washers that big??? :D

They are not washers, I cut them out of 1/4" plate, then cleaned them up inside and outside on the lathe.

That is sweet!!! That's exactly how Chevy did it on 3rd generation Vette's. Monday I pick up a 72 Blazer that I'm turning into a 2wd. I want to run my exhaust the same way. Looks great!

glock35ipsc
I have seen this modification done by several board members and on ECE's website.
I think this is a great idea for routing of the exhaust.
My question is:
Does it interfere with the emergency brake cables as in the original set-up?
When I asked the question of the other folks doing this mod they stated they did not have or need an e-brake.
Cars and trucks have to have a functional e-brake to pass state inspection here in Texas.

Also it appears that you a doing away with the carrier bearing.
Do you have to have a custom drive shaft made if so how much do they usually run?

Hutch, I had a one piece drive shaft made for my 67 short fleet this past August. It included the tubing, end yokes, U joints and slip yoke for a turbo 350. All parts were new and the total was $290.00. You may be able to get it done cheaper if you take one in and have it shortened.

plasma cutter
 

What brand plasma cutter do you have ?

It does looks kind of familliar..... without the stainless steel clamps.... Great job !!! :)

http://www.paintucation.com/projects...ad/exhaust.jpg

glock--- GMTA ?

I realize that, I was joking. :rolleyes:

I actually do have washers bigger than that at work. But the O.D. was too big, they would have hung out past the crossmember at the top and bottom. I had originaly intended to weld these to the inside of the x-member, but would have been too hard to weld.

We make parts for coal mills for power plants, so we make some pretty big stuff! We have some 4" diameter X 24" bolts at work, along with flat washers and nuts!

Great Minds Think Alike :p

If you look at the pic that shows both holes, you can see the holes for the e-brake cable with the grommet in them at the bottom outside of each hole I made. But, since I am going to an automatic, I am still debating the use of the e-brake. I will prpbably end up installing it.

This frame is a 72, and it has a mount for a pillow block type bearing, one that bolts to the bottom of the x-member. My 68 had the type that bolted to a bracket at the top of the x-member and hung down. Since that bearing only has about 200 miles on it, I wanted to remove the old bracket and bearing and use it on this new frame. I may have a one piece made later.

It is a Thermal Dynamics Econo Pac 50, great machine! :metal:

ahh yes! makes sense now LOL

doesn't someone like Brothers, ECE or similar company make a replacement bolt in piece with this design?

That is slick ... I guess the lowest part of the frame would be the carrier bearing mount??? Good idea for getting it down lower.....

Early Classics has the replacement crossmember w/exhaust holes. It offers more clearance @ the top of the driveshaft hole & is level w/the bottom of the frame vs. how the stock c.member drops about 1.5" in the center.

Hutch, I had Ft Worth Gear and Axle build me a 1 piece driveshaft for my truck. It was 200 bucks, total including a new Th400 yoke, U joints, shiny paint, everything.