Help - Never Done This Before
 

PUT A DOOR ON THIS MORNING, I HAVE HEARD THEY ARE A B!TCH TO ALIGN,
I HAVE NO DOUBT IN MY MIND THE RUMORS WERE TRUE, IT IS RUBBING AT
THE BOTTOM WHEN I OPEN IT, I ONLY HAVE THE HINGES ON, NO LATCH OR
THAT STUFF, NOT SURE WHICH WAY TO GO FROM HERE, HAVE PIC'S :confused:

I'm no expert, but I'd bet you need a handfull of shims

THANKS PURPLE GAS, I WAS SORTA THINKING THE SAME THING ;)

ALL MY NUTS AND BOLT WERE REPLACED WITH A KIT FROM TOTALLY
STAINLESS, THEY DON'T CARRY SHIMS, ANYONE KNOW WERE I CAN
GET STAINLESS SHIMS, AND SINCE I HAVE NEVER DONE THIS, WHAT
SIZE ARE SHIMS, WHAT DO THEY LOOK LIKE, DO THEY COME IN KITS :confused:

You mite beable to get some from pepgirls or NAPA, Checker even try the Help area that most stores have. maybe a Auto body supply store.

I just looked at my 71 and I don't have any shims..The door latch thing does though.

Looks like your low on the entire door. Not a lot of people on this morning, and I am not a expert, but try the following and I'm sure you may get a few more pointers.
Back the bolts out till they are loose and put a wedge between the bottom of the door and the rocker to help support the door. I did not see a bottom gap in the asy manual, but the fender to door gap is .16 +/- .09" It should be close to the same on all sides. Try using a couple of paint sticks or 12" wood rulers for the wedge between the door and the rocker. Go by your bottom body line to match up, not the top line of the bed, door is taller and not sure you can go by it. Try keeping the rear of the door the to the same gap all the way up ,them snug the bolts. On a blazer the body will flex and you may also have to add shims to the body / frame attaching points if the windshield frame does not match the top frame of the door. Adding or removing will allow the door opening to get wider or smaller, but I would start by getting the door up off of the rocker and go from there.

looks to me like you need to put something under the front like a wood door shim or something like that that wont ding the door.. withall the bolts on the piller loose pry up on it,,,get the bottom gap'd right then tighten the bottom hing,, then let the top of the door fall back or ahead to line up the back& bottom... this is very hard for me to explain so I hope this helps are those goodmark doors??? I hade to use the allmighty hammer to get mine to fit the way I wanted :devil:

a few 72's ya beet me to it (I'm a slow typer) LOL buy the way luv I have never had to use shims on a door,,, you live down south right??? maybe I'll quit my job come down and help ya LOL cailing for snow this week :bs: :banghead: you just buy the rolling rock LOL!!! let me now if I can help any other way My 4x4 is about the same way and I can take some pics to better discribe

CETHERN - REALLY WANT STAINLESS SHIMS SINCE ALL THE BOLTS ARE,
CHECKED MY 70, NO SHIMS ON HINGES, JUST THE LATCH ASSEMBLY ;)

SHAN - I WILL TRY THAT, I HAVE RAISED DOOR ONCE ALREADY, BUT IT
WAS TUFF BY MYSELF AND I DON'T THINK I MOVED IT VERY MUCH :lol:

KING - THANKS, ROLLING ROCK EH, BY THE WAY THOSE ARE RUST FREE
OE CALI DOORS FROM A 72 CST PICK UP TRUCK, NICE AREN'T THEY :D

It looks like the gap near the windshield post is good, which leads me to believe the door is pretty much in the correct spot. I would try shimming the back of the body up assuming that you don't have a stack of shims already in the first body mount location on the bed. If there are any shims at the mount, take them out see if it makes a difference.

THANKS, GEE I'LL CHECK THAT, DOES IT MAKE A DIFFERENCE THAT NONE
OF THE LATCH CONTROL STUFF IS IN PLACE :confused: JUST A LIL CURIOUS ;)

The latches can be adjusted, I would just work on getting the gaps nice. You might want to put the vent window while adjusting the gap between the a pillar and the door frame.

Thanks Gee, I Was Going To Put The Vents In. ;)

I have never seen shims used on door hinges. There should be enough adjustment without them. Just my experience. Later, Mark

THANKS, I THINK GEE MIGHT BE RIGHT, ON A BLAZER I HAVE HEARD THAT
THE BODY MOUNTS DO AFFECT THE ALIGNMENT OF EVERYTHING ELSE. ;)

Get you a handfull of paint stirring sticks from a paint store. Loosen hinges and slip paint sticks between bottom of door and sill. Adjust + or - sticks until body creases on door line up with body creases, then tighten hinges. Take sticks out, open and close door a few times to make sure it hasn't moved

3ott, Thanks, Ur The Second Person To Mention Stirring Sticks,
Gonna Get Some On The Way Home From Work Tomorrow, Maybe
The I Will Get The Fender, Other Door, Other Fender, Cowl And
Tailgate Put On, Then I Get To Unbox The Goodmark Cowl Hood. :D

Got the cart before the horse trying to align the doors without the body in alignment---what I mean by that is the firewall will tend to sag a bit if not attached to the frame via fenders/rad support, inner fenders etc. You would be much better off having the top in place and bolted down before you try to align the doors. Key is the rear door edge being in perfect alignment with the leading edge of the rear quarter----next key area is the windshield frame alignment to the front edge of the door frame when the vent window mounts---then the proper clearance with the outer rocker. The original GM assembly manual has the plant use shims to get the proper alignment of the body to frame to allow for the doors to align to the body----but without the top holding the firewall in perfect alignment to the rear quarters, you may be waisting your time and making work for yourself.

The tub should stay in the same position with the top on or off as long as the rocker boxes are solid, the cab section is a fairly rigid assembly when they are rust free. The whole front end just kinda floats there hanging off of the cab. Body mounts play a big role when trying to fit everything together. Once you get your doors algined, drill some small holes through the hinges into the body and doors so that if you have to take them off they will be easy to realign later.

I had the same problem and used the advice that gee gave.... It worked very well and I had no front clip on...

My 72 has good rockers and rocker boxes and when you take the top off thier is a noticable change in the door gaps. I would definitly have a top on while alining the doors the rocker boxes work to keep the blazer from flexing alot but the tub does flex not to mention that blazer has whent threw a lot as far as restoring ti goes so you may have a little bitt of body aslighnment problems to work out so you may need mount the top and front clip to get the doors lighned up I would hate to see you put the top on later and have to redo the doors and fenders to get the gaps write. for shims you can use stainless washers and just cut a slot in them they work grate that way and you can hide them by grinding them down to shape them so they cant be seen.

FOUND PART OF THE PROBLEM, I THINK, DID PASSENGER SIDE TODAY AND IT
WENT SMOOTH AS GLASS, I THINK IT IS A BODY MOUNT ISSUE, TOOK TAPE
AND MEASURED FLOOR TO CENTER OF WHEELWELL OPENING ON BOTH SIDES
OF THE FRONT, IT WAS OFF 1/2", YOU CAN SEE IT REAL GOOD IN PIC #3, I'M
GONNA LOOK INTO THIS LATER, I'M KINDA TIRED, SEE THE NEW PIC'S. :o

*P.S. REPOP FENDERS, OE CALI RUST FREE DOORS AND TAILGATE, HONEST :eek:

Make sure when you align your doors you leave then a little bit high in the back where the door striker plates are. You have to account for the added extra weight of all of the internals in the door and glass and such. I agree that you shouldn't install the front clip before you adjust the door. Do what you are doing. Work from stationary object "quarter panel" forward. Doors and then fenders. Tighten your core support bolts last. You may have to shift the front end over left or right to make the hood fit in the hole properly. Once the hood closes right then tight the core support bolts up.

Wow Luv2, that rig sure looks good! Even with th black primer. I wish mine was that far along.

I CAN'T TAKE MUCH CREDIT, LOOKED THAT GOOD WHEN I BOUGHT IT, I HAVE
ONLY DONE THE WORK IN THESE RECENT PIC'S, PO DID MOST OF WORK. ;)

Actually found a page in assembly manual giving measurements of the gaps and it talked about how the body mounts are the key