thoughts on this traction setup
 

well 4 linking the '84 with coilovers has been on the to doo list for awhile now to control the violent wheel hop it gets on the rare occasion that it starts to hook up. i'm getting some 275 bfg drag radials in trade from a friend and i know its going to wheel hop like crazy if these things bite at all. i'm going to be spending most of my extra cash on my 4x4 for awhile since its going to be the daily driver so i don't have the money to 4 link the 84.

this is a design i've been thinking about for a little while and i think i can build it for less than 100 bucks. i've seen similar setups on first gen ford lightnings. i would use heims where the bars mount to the crossmember and where they mount to the axle so they would not effect articulation but they won't allow the axle to wrap up. and the leaves would remain on to serve as the actual suspension.

here is a rough design i threw into autocad

thoughts?

Looks like a good design, but you have to take into consideration the length and angle of the bars, so the imaginary point where they would intersect, is the center of the truck.

the bars will be run parralle so their lines of action will never intersect. the only function they will serve is to stop axle wrap

so then wouldn't a set of slapper bars be better?

i haven't found a set that will work corectly in my application (flip kit)

i'm just wondering if this setup is going to put the rear suspension in some kind of a bind

How do you mean? :confused:

what did you just say? :confused: that makes absolutely no sense whatsoever. he's not linking it, he's just trying to come up with an idea for an anti wrap device. you see similar designs on stupid big lifted trucks with their breakover angle killing ladder bars. that's basically what you're building is a pair of ladder bars.

I'm sorry, I thought he was building a home-job 4-link. If he's just going to do ladder bars, then there's no reason in making that crossmember, just attach them to the inner frame rails.
BTW: I thought I read somewhere, that when you make a link type traction adder, that you want the imaginery point where the bars would intersect, to be at the center of your vehicle...I could be wrong though, lemme see if I can't find what I"m talking about...
EDIT: This is what I was talking about, read the overview 4-Link

instant center, and the center of the vehicle have NOTHING to do with one another. the link you showed is for a 4 link kit. Ryan is NOT putting a 4 link on his truck. as for no reason to make the crossmember, i whole heartedly disagree. there is no sufficient place to mount them inside the rails. the rails are C shaped. might try a little reading, other than the Summit catalog, theirs WAY more information out there than they want you to know about, so you waste money on their products.

http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/traction1.html Not sure it worked,but here's a link to a very effective and inexpensive device to stop wheelhop and help traction.I made a set for my V8 S10,and for the money,I prefer them over a four link.The four link works better,but not that much.

looks reminiscent of the trailing arms on 67-72 2wds, exept they used coils.

Sorry Jeremy, you're right, I had a brainfart there for a second. Dunno why I was thinking that...but you could always box the frame in, right where you want your links to connect. I think your idea is pretty cool Ryan, as a matter of fact, I may try to make the same type of thing, if I go back to the track with the drag radials and it STILL doesn't hook very well...

Ryan, maybe its just an oversite in your AutoCad drawing... but do you plan on mounting the bars on top or below the axle... not that i have any personal experience but on top would do much better controlling the axle wrap as the springs on connected and the bottom and the top of the axle would be the part rotating. The set up certainly sounds easy enough to make. good luck and keep us posted.

what version of Autocad do you have?

You could just buy the tube and have it tapped by a local machine shop then get your bar ends from suicidedoors. Personally I wouldn't use heims I would use bushed rod ends, they are much more forgiving to daily driving.

Looks good, Ryan. I would install a custom X-member (As pictured) using round tubing. Izzy brings up a good point about using heim joints but if it's not/wont be your DD, go for it. :cool:

DITTO 10 times over.

I am sure you have all heard me say this 1000 times, but......

Ryan, if you want THE best traction aid to stop wheel hop get Caltracs. They have them for your application. No reason to reinvent the wheel. The Part number is 3204 for a 73-87 with a flip kit: http://www.calvertracing.com/app/app.htm They can also custom build them to any application

If you want some personal experiences with this talk to the 454SS.com guys.

I agree with Chris, on the CalTrac's, a friend of mine has them on his 68 Camaro, and they really DO work! I just wonder how much a set costs for our truck, as well as I'd like to see what they look like for our truck...

Ryan, your idea sounds great, and if you want to keep cost low I say go for it. I agree with Chris, Cal-tracs are the way to go, but they also cost upwards of $300 last time I checked.

BTW - I have never seen a square diff pumpkin before...is that a new HP version? :lol: j/k man.

jon - i am using 2000 version, and pm me on the other ;)

chris - i have asked a few times if there were caltracs made for our trucks that work with a flip kit and no one knew of any. thanks for that link, i may just go that route.

jeff - thats my new currie center section, they are suposed to be indestructable, lol


i'm considering going with the caltracs now that i know they make them for flip kits, but its about 3 times the cost of what i think i can build the bars for, if i do build them i'll take your guys sugestion and go with bushings, i didn't realize that heims would be so bad

not more movement than they would be doing the bushings would be cheaper as well...

4 poly threaded rod ends- $16/each
8 link tabs- $5.99/each
Price of the tubing- ??

Or you could buy 2 round link bars from SD for $49.99 and get the tabs from them as well.

You could also talk to outlawcrewcab on FSC, he makes the same stuff as SD and may be cheaper since he's in DFW.

Take a look at the link I posted above,It's the cal trac design.I built mine for under a $100.The heim joints are the only thing that's a little pricey

the link you posted doesn't work for me

Crap,sorry about that.Sorry I'm computer stupid,but if you can find that site,it's a really cool setup that I've had great luck with.I found it using the google search:Cal Tracs

Or,you can email me at ScreaminS10@aol.com,and I'll email the page to you.