Home Alignment - anybody do this?
 

Do any of you align your trucks' front end at home?

I have seen several tools to do this and their price range varies greatly.

J C Whitney even shows alignment tools.

Please post thoughts, tool sources etc.

Thanks

The only thing a would do at home is toe in. I wouldnt spend any money on tools to do alignments at home. cheap tool gets you a cheap alignment. On of my co-workers those his own alignmet on on of those IMSA cars for varing track conditions and coarses. But for a street driven car its best to get a good alignment with a reputable shop. Some places do a crap job.

a good mechanic with a good alignment machine is well worth the cheap price of a proffesional alignment. i've seen alot of do-it yerselfers break thier ass and knuckels trying to, only to find out 500miles later that the only thing they accomplished was trashing a set of tires

thanks guys,

anone ever attempt this?

I am going to set the rough toe in so I can drive my truck to the alignment shop. For the price it cost you can't go wrong having a good shop do it for you.

While I tend to recomend a shop like everyone else here seems to be doing, I'll say that I have enver taken one of my rides in to be done. All i ever used was a T square and a tape measure. We do many trucks like so at work too.

Oh....never had any tire wear issues either....well...the right rear always seems to have problems keeping tread, but I think that may be unrelated.

Hey Longhorn Man how's that motor going ???

I smacked a curb and bent the a-arm on my s-10 one night does that count?

I out-a-aligned it ;)

Take it to a shop they can only charge ya for a two wheel alignment and they're cheap.

The one that lost oil pressure and started knockin like a diesel?
It's doin fine sitting in a storage unit collecting dust. :whine:

Hey Andy. Would you care to explain how to do it with a T square and tape measure? Wearing the inside on the right front. Thought this might be a camber problem.

I do my own. I've got a caster/camber gauge, and a bar that I use for checking toe. I learned how to do front ends when I was a kid working at an import garage, and nowadays I work on a lot of stock cars. A nice flat spot to set your car on, a decent caster/camber gauge, and a toe bar will tell you all you need to know.

I've know guys who have set toe using a set strings. But they also
used a tread depth guage once a month to check how the tires were
wearing.

Jim
Mt Juliet

I measure to the center of the tire, and mark it with bright paint...same on the other tire. If it is a tire with tread in the center...I just move it over and make sure the other one is marked the exact same.
Roll the vehicle so the painted mark is in front...as close to the 1/2 way mark (measured from top to bottom) on the tire's rotation. If you can't get too high, then it won't be as acurate...so you want to get it as high as possable. However, don't let the tape touch anything.
With an assistant holding the end of the tape measure directly on the painted mark on one wheel, you slide to the other side and pull the tape tight. You don't need to rip it outa the other dude's hand, but you need to be consistant on how tight you pull it.
Record your numbers.
Roll the vehicle backwards untill the painted mark is 180 degrees from where you started...again, as close as you can, the higher the better, and again, the tape must be unobstructed.
Record the measurements.
You want about 1/16 to 1/8th inch toe in....toe in is when the front of the tires are closer than the rear of the tire... like this as seen from above. \----/ But not nearly as wade obviously. And just for sh1ts and grins, this is toed in as seen from above /----\
Loosen the rie rod sleve that connects the inner and outer tie rod together, and adjust acordingly. If an uncentered steering wheel really bugs you, then there is more work involved...and it is a good idea since driving with the steering gear box uncentered will shorten it's life, only the center of the gear is heat treated, and keeping it on a turn spot of the gear would end up wearing it out. You'll need to adjust each side in or out while keeping the steering wheel centered. Kinda tough to do, and can really try your patients.
Test drive it, paying close attention to where the wheel is, if it is just a little off, and you're OK with it, then it's OK. Pull back in and re measure it all....same steps, and perferably using the exact same paint dab...to keep things consistant.
Also, when pulling in to adjust it/recheck it, you are better off coasting to a stop, or stopping with the E-brake.
For the Camber...the tilt of the wheel, I have always gone for perfectly verticle, maybe 1/16th inch with the tops tilted out. Like this as seen from in front of the vehicle. \------/ ...again, not as drastic. Generally, if the vehicle's weight has not been altered, (ie...a big block where an inline used to reside) then the adjustment needed will bo to tolt the tops out, as springs get old and sag, the top of the tire ends up tilting in. Like this /----\ Or like the rear tires of an old escort or tempo.
You need a very smooth flat surface to do this on, have the truck loaded like you would every day. The spare in it's space, your tool box loaded if you keep it so, and even toss 200 pounds into the drivers seat to represent you and your spare tire.
I may have used the worong term...carpenter's square...the long L shaped tool, normally (if not always) imprinted with your inch/mentric measurements. You want it to be perfectly straight. The taller the better. I used to have one that would reach the rim , but not go to the tire on my old longhorn which had 9.50 16.5 up front.
I would place the tool on the floor, and slide it up against the tire. No forcing, you need to measure the gap between the tool and the rim bead. (after ensuring the rim is straight....and many are not). Do it on both top and bottom.
To adjust it, you add/remove shims inbetween the upper a-arm mounting bolts and the frame. add to tolt the top of the tire out....remove to tilt the top of the tire in.
Again, go around the block, roll to a stop and recheck it.

This is not going to get you dead on acurate like taking it to a shop with the real expensive computerized lazer allighnment rack. However, either i have been dam lucky, or this is enough to get you in the window.

On solid axle trucks, (like the GM P/30) we set the toe all the time at work, and have sent one or two out to get checked on a machine, and both times the dude said they were close enough to warrant not messing with it.



Also, be forwarned, you may bust bolts...you're dealin with old/rusty stuff here. Be prepaired to locate SUTIBLE replacements, not the five and dime replacement grade 2 stuff either.
Also, this can take up the better part of an afternoon your first time, we can set the toe on the P/30's we rebuild in less than 30 min including test drive and remeasuring and centering the wheel. But this is after rebuilding 100 or so trucks too.


In all reality, I recomend setting the toe this way after replacing components, and then drive it to get done properly.
if you are dead broke and can hardly keep the gas tank filled, then this will get you close enough to keep from needing tires in 2 or 3 months.

thanks longhorn man!!
 

This was the type of reply I was looking for, I know I can take it to a shop and will when finished. I have rebuilt my front end (as part of a ground up project) and want to get it close, until I get to the alignment shop and to show my alignment guy just because the truck has been lowered (in a proper fashion with spindles) that it in fact can be properly aligned.

Any other replies regarding home alignment tools?

i use a digital protractor to set camber initialy. set toe similar to above post.
set the castor to prevent dive.
then i use a nice straght road & a ir temp sensor to check tire temp spread.
when the settings are right the temps will be within .5 degrees acroos the tire.
measure inside, center & outside.

home brew alignemts can be done. I have highly modified my front end. I set the toe, camber, caster & ackerman all at work using nothing more than a tape measure,& a home made fixture for adapting a magnetic protracter.. then when I bought new tires I figured I would take it in for a pro job. (this guy is a perfectionist) he said he had to add 1/16 shim on all 4 bolts to get it perfect!

If he tells you it can't be done slap him stupid(er). lol :lol:

I've done toe with the parrallel string method and it works good-haven't got into caster/camber yet but it's just a matter of time and tools...like evrything else

robert