e-brake cables and what to do with them...
 

...after a lift? What did you do?

I was thinking of moving the bracket rearward or moving it to below the bottom frame rail. This is the bracket at the front of the rear springs.

Neither of my lifted trucks have there emergency cables hooked up. Hoping to get around to it this summer but not sure which is the easyiest or the best way to do it?
Thanx for reminding me about them!
-Later

after an 8 inch lift i just gas axed them, didn't work to start with, but in retrospect i really wish i had attempted to make them work instead of chopping them off. oh youth...
Ryan

ya i need a solution too, mine rub against my leafs =( i was thinking of the drivetrain brake but its way to expensive

Yeah, I checked out the drivetrain brake too and it did seem pretty spendy.
-Later

I just removed the entire system. :o
I worked a couple extra hours to save the cables on the rearend when I swapped in the corp 14 and then they turned out to be to short to reach anyway.

Made more room at the kickpanel for speakers and I'm gonna use a hydro lock. Just gotta get around to putting it on...

My problem is I have my GMC registered for general use w/ the DMV, which means an annual state inspection and the e-brakes have to work. Something I did notice my 71 w/ eaton seems to have longer cables from the rear end than the 70 GMC w/ dana60. I also have a dana60 from a 71 C20 and i'm going to see if those cables are any longer. I let you know. Oh yea, I only lifted the rear of the GMC 3" and the e-brake cable was rubbing and tight against the front spring bracket for the rear springs. The chevy has a 71 chassis.

I moved the brackets back when I installed a 14 bolt. Then I had a different intermediate cable made

I cut a V out of the center of the old bracket, and bent it to close the V - so it angled the cable down more. Then I welded up the cut and relocated the bracket to the bottom of the frame rail. I cut the cable that runs in a U, and added a piece to it using crimp-on cable ferrules. Works great.

Good method...and cheap. When I finally lift my K20, if the e-brake rear housings won't remain unstressed when "stretching" with the suspension droop, I'll probably splurge for a new, custom e-brake cable with longer rear housings and rear loop. I think the cable that's on there now has seen its better days.

Inline tube makes custom e-brake cables for a pretty penny. A collectible penny, that is.:lol:

I never had an issue with the e-brake/4" lift(that I was aware of).It`s been a while since I`ve had a lifted truck,though,and I was younger and dumber.I always wanted to go to a hydraulic line-loc like tow trucks use.Does the inspection allow extensions/splicing?

I had no issues either until I put the 14 bolt in. The longest cables I could find were coming up short, so I had to relocate the brackets. You're right, the OE 1/2 ton setup will work with quite a bit of lift.

Hydraulic line locks are good for holding the brakes while winching, but not useful as a parking brake since the fluid pressure will eventually leak off. They also are only as good as your hydraulic system, so they are of no use as an "emergency" brake. I've found that the parking brake usually has more braking than the 4 tires have traction, so I just lock in 4WD for winching.