e-brake cables and what to do woth them... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**JIMs70GMC** · 04-15-2005, 12:18 PM

...after a lift? What did you do?

I was thinking of moving the bracket rearward or moving it to below the bottom frame rail. This is the bracket at the front of the rear springs.

Hoods69BadBowTie · 04-15-2005, 01:48 PM

Neither of my lifted trucks have there emergency cables hooked up. Hoping to get around to it this summer but not sure which is the easyiest or the best way to do it?
Thanx for reminding me about them!
-Later

ryanroo · 04-15-2005, 02:26 PM

after an 8 inch lift i just gas axed them, didn't work to start with, but in retrospect i really wish i had attempted to make them work instead of chopping them off. oh youth...
Ryan

GMC71k20 · 04-15-2005, 03:01 PM

ya i need a solution too, mine rub against my leafs =( i was thinking of the drivetrain brake but its way to expensive

Hoods69BadBowTie · 04-15-2005, 03:33 PM

Yeah, I checked out the drivetrain brake too and it did seem pretty spendy.
-Later

454_72_4X4 · 04-15-2005, 07:43 PM

I just removed the entire system.

I worked a couple extra hours to save the cables on the rearend when I swapped in the corp 14 and then they turned out to be to short to reach anyway.

Made more room at the kickpanel for speakers and I'm gonna use a hydro lock. Just gotta get around to putting it on...

**JIMs70GMC** · 04-15-2005, 08:15 PM

My problem is I have my GMC registered for general use w/ the DMV, which means an annual state inspection and the e-brakes have to work. Something I did notice my 71 w/ eaton seems to have longer cables from the rear end than the 70 GMC w/ dana60. I also have a dana60 from a 71 C20 and i'm going to see if those cables are any longer. I let you know. Oh yea, I only lifted the rear of the GMC 3" and the e-brake cable was rubbing and tight against the front spring bracket for the rear springs. The chevy has a 71 chassis.

**kwmech** · 04-15-2005, 11:37 PM

I moved the brackets back when I installed a 14 bolt. Then I had a different intermediate cable made

72k5 · 04-17-2005, 01:01 AM

I cut a V out of the center of the old bracket, and bent it to close the V - so it angled the cable down more. Then I welded up the cut and relocated the bracket to the bottom of the frame rail. I cut the cable that runs in a U, and added a piece to it using crimp-on cable ferrules. Works great.

4x4Poet · 04-17-2005, 03:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 72k5

I cut a V out of the center of the old bracket, and bent it to close the V - so it angled the cable down more. Then I welded up the cut and relocated the bracket to the bottom of the frame rail. I cut the cable that runs in a U, and added a piece to it using crimp-on cable ferrules. Works great.

Good method...and cheap. When I finally lift my K20, if the e-brake rear housings won't remain unstressed when "stretching" with the suspension droop, I'll probably splurge for a new, custom e-brake cable with longer rear housings and rear loop. I think the cable that's on there now has seen its better days.

Inline tube makes custom e-brake cables for a pretty penny. A collectible penny, that is.

**special-K** · 04-17-2005, 07:13 AM

I never had an issue with the e-brake/4" lift(that I was aware of).It`s been a while since I`ve had a lifted truck,though,and I was younger and dumber.I always wanted to go to a hydraulic line-loc like tow trucks use.Does the inspection allow extensions/splicing?

72k5 · 04-19-2005, 12:09 AM

I had no issues either until I put the 14 bolt in. The longest cables I could find were coming up short, so I had to relocate the brackets. You're right, the OE 1/2 ton setup will work with quite a bit of lift.

Hydraulic line locks are good for holding the brakes while winching, but not useful as a parking brake since the fluid pressure will eventually leak off. They also are only as good as your hydraulic system, so they are of no use as an "emergency" brake. I've found that the parking brake usually has more braking than the 4 tires have traction, so I just lock in 4WD for winching.

04-15-2005, 12:18 PM	#1
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	e-brake cables and what to do with them... ...after a lift? What did you do? I was thinking of moving the bracket rearward or moving it to below the bottom frame rail. This is the bracket at the front of the rear springs. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm Last edited by JIMs70GMC; 04-15-2005 at 12:19 PM.

04-15-2005, 01:48 PM	#2
Hoods69BadBowTie Chevys Kick A$$ Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Zootown, MT Posts: 12,699	Neither of my lifted trucks have there emergency cables hooked up. Hoping to get around to it this summer but not sure which is the easyiest or the best way to do it? Thanx for reminding me about them! -Later __________________ HOODS is what I answer too -'79, '77, '88 Pickup Sold, '85 Camaro, '83 T/A, '81,'83,'90 K5 Blazer All Sold -'79 3/4 ton "Big Yellow Bananna" Lifted 4spd. 39.5 TSL Swampers, The money Pit -'86 K5 Blazer Silverado 6.2 4" lift 35"s -'95 Ext. Cab Shorty 4" Tuff Country rolling 35" M/T's -'83 Monte Carlo T-Tops. 126,500 Original Miles -LATER I would rather push a Chevy then drive a ford!!

04-15-2005, 02:26 PM	#3
ryanroo Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: sw colorado Posts: 2,720	after an 8 inch lift i just gas axed them, didn't work to start with, but in retrospect i really wish i had attempted to make them work instead of chopping them off. oh youth... Ryan __________________ 72 K20 12v build 72 K20 "parts truck" A place for your diesel swap questions

04-15-2005, 03:33 PM	#5
Hoods69BadBowTie Chevys Kick A$$ Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Zootown, MT Posts: 12,699	Yeah, I checked out the drivetrain brake too and it did seem pretty spendy. -Later __________________ HOODS is what I answer too -'79, '77, '88 Pickup Sold, '85 Camaro, '83 T/A, '81,'83,'90 K5 Blazer All Sold -'79 3/4 ton "Big Yellow Bananna" Lifted 4spd. 39.5 TSL Swampers, The money Pit -'86 K5 Blazer Silverado 6.2 4" lift 35"s -'95 Ext. Cab Shorty 4" Tuff Country rolling 35" M/T's -'83 Monte Carlo T-Tops. 126,500 Original Miles -LATER I would rather push a Chevy then drive a ford!!

04-15-2005, 07:43 PM	#6
454_72_4X4 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: N.E. MO Posts: 1,749	I just removed the entire system. I worked a couple extra hours to save the cables on the rearend when I swapped in the corp 14 and then they turned out to be to short to reach anyway. Made more room at the kickpanel for speakers and I'm gonna use a hydro lock. Just gotta get around to putting it on... __________________ 72 C20 4X4 454 4 speed 89 Trans Am (was) 305 TPI 700r4 93 C1500 2wd Extended cab 350 700r4 98 Sonoma (TPI outa the Trans Am) 03 Yamaha 660 Raptor 03/04 660 Raptor 07 700 Raptor 85 Honda Odyssey

04-15-2005, 03:01 PM	#4
GMC71k20 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: mass Posts: 1,277	ya i need a solution too, mine rub against my leafs =( i was thinking of the drivetrain brake but its way to expensive

04-15-2005, 08:15 PM	#7
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	My problem is I have my GMC registered for general use w/ the DMV, which means an annual state inspection and the e-brakes have to work. Something I did notice my 71 w/ eaton seems to have longer cables from the rear end than the 70 GMC w/ dana60. I also have a dana60 from a 71 C20 and i'm going to see if those cables are any longer. I let you know. Oh yea, I only lifted the rear of the GMC 3" and the e-brake cable was rubbing and tight against the front spring bracket for the rear springs. The chevy has a 71 chassis. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

04-15-2005, 11:37 PM	#8
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,628	I moved the brackets back when I installed a 14 bolt. Then I had a different intermediate cable made

04-17-2005, 01:01 AM	#9
72k5 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Livermore, CA Posts: 566	I cut a V out of the center of the old bracket, and bent it to close the V - so it angled the cable down more. Then I welded up the cut and relocated the bracket to the bottom of the frame rail. I cut the cable that runs in a U, and added a piece to it using crimp-on cable ferrules. Works great. __________________ 350 ETec 170 heads, Performer, HEI, Holly TBI, 700r4, 14 bolt rear, F&R lockers, lots of off road improvements.

04-17-2005, 07:13 AM	#11
special-K Special Order Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mt Airy, MD Posts: 85,851	I never had an issue with the e-brake/4" lift(that I was aware of).It`s been a while since I`ve had a lifted truck,though,and I was younger and dumber.I always wanted to go to a hydraulic line-loc like tow trucks use.Does the inspection allow extensions/splicing? __________________ "BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~

04-19-2005, 12:09 AM	#12
72k5 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Livermore, CA Posts: 566	I had no issues either until I put the 14 bolt in. The longest cables I could find were coming up short, so I had to relocate the brackets. You're right, the OE 1/2 ton setup will work with quite a bit of lift. Hydraulic line locks are good for holding the brakes while winching, but not useful as a parking brake since the fluid pressure will eventually leak off. They also are only as good as your hydraulic system, so they are of no use as an "emergency" brake. I've found that the parking brake usually has more braking than the 4 tires have traction, so I just lock in 4WD for winching. __________________ 350 ETec 170 heads, Performer, HEI, Holly TBI, 700r4, 14 bolt rear, F&R lockers, lots of off road improvements. Last edited by 72k5; 04-19-2005 at 12:10 AM.



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