Shaved door help
 

I am trying to install an autoloc kit in my 79 c10 and am running into some problems. I was wondering if anyone could take a picture of how they mounted their solenoid and could explain where they attatched their rod to the latch. I have been messing around with this thing for about 2 days now. Either this project is making me drink too much and i am missing the obvious or i have a bad solenoid. Any help is greatly appreciated as all I seem to get accomplished is going through a pack of smokes and a case of beer each night!:lol: thanks!

Mtrhd329

Re: Shaved door help
 

here...
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_0213.jpg

I hope that helps./..

Re: Shaved door help
 

OK. so maybe i have my cable wrong. I have my solenoid in the exact same place. Is yours an autoloc as well? I have the cable ran to the same hole that the handle comes off of and i have to preload the handle so it has enoung travel to actuate the latch. My problem is that with it preloaded it doesnt pop. the solenoid acts like it is struggling. These are the 50# ones...or so they told me. If i take the preload off of the handle it doesnt have enough travel to actuate the latch. I tried the adjustable dealy on the tip of the actuator and still no luck. Maybe i should cut the rod for the handle and use that on the solenoid and use the cable for the handle?? I am about to just get some linear actuators and make this thing work.

Re: Shaved door help
 

I have the autoloc 50s too... I dont have problems with them *is puzzled* did you test to be sure they had a good pop before installing them?

I used the wire cable they supplied with the kit and just made it really really taught....pulls my latch, then the door poppers push it open enough for me to get fingers in from the outside, or just push it open when inside....

I got mine from the gauge online store.... where did you get yours?

Re: Shaved door help
 

I tested them before i put the min with my drill battery and they worked awesome. I think i got them on Egay. I figured out how to make it work without binding the solenoid. I had some power door actuators for when i was thinking of converting to power door locks. I used the little rod and clamp that is used to clamp the actuator to the existing lock rod. I was able to use that to keep the handle about half pulled so that the autolocs would have enough travel and not be nbound up like they were with the cable. Still dont have a warm fuzzy with just the two little screws holding everything together so i think i will drill a hole where the tension screws go and slide a cotter pin in there. Next up is running a choke cable out the door uand under the truck for my mechanical backup. I was also thinking of running a 9v battery connection and hiding it somewhere under the truck or something and tying tat to the solenoid so if the batt dies and i dont want to give away my mechanical location i can just tap the battery to the connection. Have to tape up a battery and hide it under the frame too thought. Boy if i ever sell this think it will have to come with an instruction manual. Thanks for the help those who helped. I am sure i will have more questions as i go on.:metal:

Re: Shaved door help
 

Have you rilled for the door poppers yet? If so,, where at? on the door or cab?

Re: Shaved door help
 

i mounted the drivers side popper( the side i am working on) I put in right below the striker bolt.

Re: Shaved door help
 

My doors on my 68 C-10 are smoothed, but I used the Bear Calw latches and mounted them in the rear pillar. The solenoids are going to be mounted just below them and the Bear Claws don't need door poppers.

Re: Shaved door help
 

I put mine on the forward side of the door... that way it actually pushes the door outward...was easier that way :D too small of an area to drill on the cab :/

Re: Shaved door help
 

The trick is in the cable tension. It has to be just right. I've seen most people replace the inside handle with the solenoid and attach the existing rod to make it work, which means they have to use the remote to get out of the vehicle also. I went a different route when installing my 50lb electric-life kit. I also added some autoloc door poppers for that extra pop. Heres a couple of pics.

Re: Shaved door help
 

copper... I like the position of your popper.... I think I may relocate mine to that position...

Re: Shaved door help
 

copperchevy: what did you use to attach the cable to your door rod?

Re: Shaved door help
 

I welded a nut to the rod and used small crimps to attach the cable at both the rod and the solenoid. I lost the crimps that came with my kit, so i got some from lowes. The sliding door glass pulley which i also got from lowes bolts up to the factory bottom hole of the inside handle after taking that bolt out. There was alot of play in the door handle so i shortened the rod to make it a bit stiffer. In doing so, it makes it easier on the solenoid to pull the latch open. Take it from me, cable tension is the key. If its too tight or too loose the solenoid is'nt going to pull the latch/door open.

Re: Shaved door help
 

Pretty sweet idea on placement of your popper.

Re: Shaved door help
 

By the way, Which door poppers are those?

Re: Shaved door help
 

**Update**
After putting this porject on the back burner for a while while i got some other "projects" done on the truck I decided that I didnt want to have to worry about the reliability of the solenoid. So I went to the junkyard and got some power window assemblies and put those in. Then I wired my windows to work off of the lock and unlock of my alarm. I think I am still going to go with a manual backup. Not sure if I should make the manual to the hood to recharge the battery or to the door. I leaning towards the door so no one can get into my car if they find my cable. Thanks for all the help even though I went the easy way out.:metal:

Re: Shaved door help
 

:agree: thats my setup, works great

Re: Shaved door help
 

forgive me for sounding dumb but what actuates the bear claws?

Re: Shaved door help
 

The Bear Claw latches are a spring loaded door latch assembly that is all in one. When the latch is opened (with the use of a solenoid inside the vehicle) the spring pops the door.

Re: Shaved door help
 

So you would still be relying on the solenoid? OK. I have heard storied both ways with problems and praises for solenoids and i im glad i eliminated on of the potenital problems in my shaved handle setup.

Re: Shaved door help
 

I think that you may be a little mixed here. The shaved door situation is going to have solenoids to operate the latches UNLESS you create a cable or rod system that does not need solenoids to actuate the latch. What is needed for many shaved doors is a door popper to get the door to "KICK" open slightly so that the door will disengage from the latch. The standard way of doing smooth doors is to leave the factory installed latcha nd search for a solenoid with the right amount of power to pull the latch assembly. There are different size solenoids to handle sifferent design latches. The "Bear Claw" latches mentioned are a totally new set of latches installed into the door or door frame to allow for a better latching design and does not need a door popper to assist the dooor opening. My setup in the 68 truck is mounted into the door frame and the latches will have a solenoid to open, along with a cable backup to allow opening in emeergencies or just for normal use from the inside of the cab. I plan on mounting the latch handles in my console.

I once saw a guy that put latches on his rear door frame, but he put a rod down through the floor of the truck and he could operate the door with the tip of his shoe. If someone saw him do this, then they would know how to open his doors. Creativity is all over the map on this stuff.

Re: Shaved door help
 

I just dont want to rely on the solenoids. I am using my alarm to roll up and down my windows and i will open the latch by hand to get in. I have heard some bad things about the solenoids that i had. Plus All that was needed to get my alarm to roll up and down my windows was two relays that i already had laying around. So I'm just going an easier way out for now. Thank you for the informative reply. Im actually thinking about going with the bear claws and some GOOD solenoids later down the road.