Shaved door help - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Mtrhd329 · 01-19-2008, 03:02 PM

I am trying to install an autoloc kit in my 79 c10 and am running into some problems. I was wondering if anyone could take a picture of how they mounted their solenoid and could explain where they attatched their rod to the latch. I have been messing around with this thing for about 2 days now. Either this project is making me drink too much and i am missing the obvious or i have a bad solenoid. Any help is greatly appreciated as all I seem to get accomplished is going through a pack of smokes and a case of beer each night!

thanks!

Mtrhd329

knightlife · 01-19-2008, 04:54 PM

here...

I hope that helps./..

Mtrhd329 · 01-20-2008, 05:54 AM

OK. so maybe i have my cable wrong. I have my solenoid in the exact same place. Is yours an autoloc as well? I have the cable ran to the same hole that the handle comes off of and i have to preload the handle so it has enoung travel to actuate the latch. My problem is that with it preloaded it doesnt pop. the solenoid acts like it is struggling. These are the 50# ones...or so they told me. If i take the preload off of the handle it doesnt have enough travel to actuate the latch. I tried the adjustable dealy on the tip of the actuator and still no luck. Maybe i should cut the rod for the handle and use that on the solenoid and use the cable for the handle?? I am about to just get some linear actuators and make this thing work.

knightlife · 01-20-2008, 08:37 AM

I have the autoloc 50s too... I dont have problems with them *is puzzled* did you test to be sure they had a good pop before installing them?

I used the wire cable they supplied with the kit and just made it really really taught....pulls my latch, then the door poppers push it open enough for me to get fingers in from the outside, or just push it open when inside....

I got mine from the gauge online store.... where did you get yours?

Mtrhd329 · 01-20-2008, 02:52 PM

I tested them before i put the min with my drill battery and they worked awesome. I think i got them on Egay. I figured out how to make it work without binding the solenoid. I had some power door actuators for when i was thinking of converting to power door locks. I used the little rod and clamp that is used to clamp the actuator to the existing lock rod. I was able to use that to keep the handle about half pulled so that the autolocs would have enough travel and not be nbound up like they were with the cable. Still dont have a warm fuzzy with just the two little screws holding everything together so i think i will drill a hole where the tension screws go and slide a cotter pin in there. Next up is running a choke cable out the door uand under the truck for my mechanical backup. I was also thinking of running a 9v battery connection and hiding it somewhere under the truck or something and tying tat to the solenoid so if the batt dies and i dont want to give away my mechanical location i can just tap the battery to the connection. Have to tape up a battery and hide it under the frame too thought. Boy if i ever sell this think it will have to come with an instruction manual. Thanks for the help those who helped. I am sure i will have more questions as i go on.

Mr79C10 · 01-20-2008, 07:58 PM

Have you rilled for the door poppers yet? If so,, where at? on the door or cab?

Mtrhd329 · 01-21-2008, 05:35 AM

i mounted the drivers side popper( the side i am working on) I put in right below the striker bolt.

piecesparts · 01-21-2008, 07:24 AM

My doors on my 68 C-10 are smoothed, but I used the Bear Calw latches and mounted them in the rear pillar. The solenoids are going to be mounted just below them and the Bear Claws don't need door poppers.

knightlife · 01-21-2008, 04:15 PM

I put mine on the forward side of the door... that way it actually pushes the door outward...was easier that way

too small of an area to drill on the cab :/

copperchevy · 01-22-2008, 04:02 AM

The trick is in the cable tension. It has to be just right. I've seen most people replace the inside handle with the solenoid and attach the existing rod to make it work, which means they have to use the remote to get out of the vehicle also. I went a different route when installing my 50lb electric-life kit. I also added some autoloc door poppers for that extra pop. Heres a couple of pics.

knightlife · 01-22-2008, 05:19 AM

copper... I like the position of your popper.... I think I may relocate mine to that position...

Mtrhd329 · 01-22-2008, 09:08 AM

copperchevy: what did you use to attach the cable to your door rod?

copperchevy · 01-22-2008, 09:34 AM

I welded a nut to the rod and used small crimps to attach the cable at both the rod and the solenoid. I lost the crimps that came with my kit, so i got some from lowes. The sliding door glass pulley which i also got from lowes bolts up to the factory bottom hole of the inside handle after taking that bolt out. There was alot of play in the door handle so i shortened the rod to make it a bit stiffer. In doing so, it makes it easier on the solenoid to pull the latch open. Take it from me, cable tension is the key. If its too tight or too loose the solenoid is'nt going to pull the latch/door open.

Mr79C10 · 01-23-2008, 09:06 PM

Pretty sweet idea on placement of your popper.

Mr79C10 · 02-03-2008, 08:50 AM

By the way, Which door poppers are those?

Mtrhd329 · 02-03-2008, 02:50 PM

**Update**
After putting this porject on the back burner for a while while i got some other "projects" done on the truck I decided that I didnt want to have to worry about the reliability of the solenoid. So I went to the junkyard and got some power window assemblies and put those in. Then I wired my windows to work off of the lock and unlock of my alarm. I think I am still going to go with a manual backup. Not sure if I should make the manual to the hood to recharge the battery or to the door. I leaning towards the door so no one can get into my car if they find my cable. Thanks for all the help even though I went the easy way out.

mixermike · 02-04-2008, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by piecesparts

My doors on my 68 C-10 are smoothed, but I used the Bear Calw latches and mounted them in the rear pillar. The solenoids are going to be mounted just below them and the Bear Claws don't need door poppers.

thats my setup, works great

Mtrhd329 · 02-05-2008, 08:37 AM

forgive me for sounding dumb but what actuates the bear claws?

piecesparts · 02-05-2008, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mtrhd329

forgive me for sounding dumb but what actuates the bear claws?

The Bear Claw latches are a spring loaded door latch assembly that is all in one. When the latch is opened (with the use of a solenoid inside the vehicle) the spring pops the door.

Mtrhd329 · 02-05-2008, 10:14 AM

So you would still be relying on the solenoid? OK. I have heard storied both ways with problems and praises for solenoids and i im glad i eliminated on of the potenital problems in my shaved handle setup.

piecesparts · 02-05-2008, 01:08 PM

I think that you may be a little mixed here. The shaved door situation is going to have solenoids to operate the latches UNLESS you create a cable or rod system that does not need solenoids to actuate the latch. What is needed for many shaved doors is a door popper to get the door to "KICK" open slightly so that the door will disengage from the latch. The standard way of doing smooth doors is to leave the factory installed latcha nd search for a solenoid with the right amount of power to pull the latch assembly. There are different size solenoids to handle sifferent design latches. The "Bear Claw" latches mentioned are a totally new set of latches installed into the door or door frame to allow for a better latching design and does not need a door popper to assist the dooor opening. My setup in the 68 truck is mounted into the door frame and the latches will have a solenoid to open, along with a cable backup to allow opening in emeergencies or just for normal use from the inside of the cab. I plan on mounting the latch handles in my console.

I once saw a guy that put latches on his rear door frame, but he put a rod down through the floor of the truck and he could operate the door with the tip of his shoe. If someone saw him do this, then they would know how to open his doors. Creativity is all over the map on this stuff.

Mtrhd329 · 02-05-2008, 04:04 PM

I just dont want to rely on the solenoids. I am using my alarm to roll up and down my windows and i will open the latch by hand to get in. I have heard some bad things about the solenoids that i had. Plus All that was needed to get my alarm to roll up and down my windows was two relays that i already had laying around. So I'm just going an easier way out for now. Thank you for the informative reply. Im actually thinking about going with the bear claws and some GOOD solenoids later down the road.

01-19-2008, 03:02 PM	#1
Mtrhd329 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chowchilla, Ca Posts: 115	Shaved door help I am trying to install an autoloc kit in my 79 c10 and am running into some problems. I was wondering if anyone could take a picture of how they mounted their solenoid and could explain where they attatched their rod to the latch. I have been messing around with this thing for about 2 days now. Either this project is making me drink too much and i am missing the obvious or i have a bad solenoid. Any help is greatly appreciated as all I seem to get accomplished is going through a pack of smokes and a case of beer each night! thanks! Mtrhd329

01-19-2008, 04:54 PM	#2
knightlife Dark Heart Motorsports Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: 29404 DKFX Posts: 683	Re: Shaved door help here... I hope that helps./.. __________________ How Deep Can YOU Bleed..? 1985 Chevy Blazer K5- 6.2 N/A, 400 turbo trans CUCV, 12v converted... a new chapter 2005 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 6.0 powwwaa!!! custom jumpseat install w/ captain seats, Hypertech tuner, MSD Blaster Coils, CB and twin antenna's, all electric interior, touch screen in dash. custom center console, with jump seat replacing original console. 1500 HD!

01-20-2008, 05:54 AM	#3
Mtrhd329 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chowchilla, Ca Posts: 115	Re: Shaved door help OK. so maybe i have my cable wrong. I have my solenoid in the exact same place. Is yours an autoloc as well? I have the cable ran to the same hole that the handle comes off of and i have to preload the handle so it has enoung travel to actuate the latch. My problem is that with it preloaded it doesnt pop. the solenoid acts like it is struggling. These are the 50# ones...or so they told me. If i take the preload off of the handle it doesnt have enough travel to actuate the latch. I tried the adjustable dealy on the tip of the actuator and still no luck. Maybe i should cut the rod for the handle and use that on the solenoid and use the cable for the handle?? I am about to just get some linear actuators and make this thing work.

01-20-2008, 08:37 AM	#4
knightlife Dark Heart Motorsports Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: 29404 DKFX Posts: 683	Re: Shaved door help I have the autoloc 50s too... I dont have problems with them is puzzled did you test to be sure they had a good pop before installing them? I used the wire cable they supplied with the kit and just made it really really taught....pulls my latch, then the door poppers push it open enough for me to get fingers in from the outside, or just push it open when inside.... I got mine from the gauge online store.... where did you get yours? __________________ How Deep Can YOU Bleed..? 1985 Chevy Blazer K5- 6.2 N/A, 400 turbo trans CUCV, 12v converted... a new chapter 2005 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 6.0 powwwaa!!! custom jumpseat install w/ captain seats, Hypertech tuner, MSD Blaster Coils, CB and twin antenna's, all electric interior, touch screen in dash. custom center console, with jump seat replacing original console. 1500 HD!

01-20-2008, 02:52 PM	#5
Mtrhd329 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chowchilla, Ca Posts: 115	Re: Shaved door help I tested them before i put the min with my drill battery and they worked awesome. I think i got them on Egay. I figured out how to make it work without binding the solenoid. I had some power door actuators for when i was thinking of converting to power door locks. I used the little rod and clamp that is used to clamp the actuator to the existing lock rod. I was able to use that to keep the handle about half pulled so that the autolocs would have enough travel and not be nbound up like they were with the cable. Still dont have a warm fuzzy with just the two little screws holding everything together so i think i will drill a hole where the tension screws go and slide a cotter pin in there. Next up is running a choke cable out the door uand under the truck for my mechanical backup. I was also thinking of running a 9v battery connection and hiding it somewhere under the truck or something and tying tat to the solenoid so if the batt dies and i dont want to give away my mechanical location i can just tap the battery to the connection. Have to tape up a battery and hide it under the frame too thought. Boy if i ever sell this think it will have to come with an instruction manual. Thanks for the help those who helped. I am sure i will have more questions as i go on.

01-20-2008, 07:58 PM	#6
Mr79C10 It Is What It Is,,,, Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: The Gun Shine StateFlorida* Posts: 1,765	Re: Shaved door help Have you rilled for the door poppers yet? If so,, where at? on the door or cab? __________________ 79 C10 Short Box ST8 6 bang'r Lowered w/ 3" Control arms, 2" Lower Coils and 4" shackles and hangers W/ FLIP KIT __--__* 79 C-10 project* .........................__ ..............._____ l __\___ ..............\|_(O)_ \|___(O) ] FAQ INDEX Thread The Kulture My Rat Den

01-21-2008, 05:35 AM	#7
Mtrhd329 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chowchilla, Ca Posts: 115	Re: Shaved door help i mounted the drivers side popper( the side i am working on) I put in right below the striker bolt.

01-21-2008, 07:24 AM	#8
piecesparts Parts and more parts Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Lebo, Kansas (middle of nowhere Posts: 6,821	Re: Shaved door help My doors on my 68 C-10 are smoothed, but I used the Bear Calw latches and mounted them in the rear pillar. The solenoids are going to be mounted just below them and the Bear Claws don't need door poppers.

01-21-2008, 04:15 PM	#9
knightlife Dark Heart Motorsports Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: 29404 DKFX Posts: 683	Re: Shaved door help I put mine on the forward side of the door... that way it actually pushes the door outward...was easier that way too small of an area to drill on the cab :/ __________________ How Deep Can YOU Bleed..? 1985 Chevy Blazer K5- 6.2 N/A, 400 turbo trans CUCV, 12v converted... a new chapter 2005 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 6.0 powwwaa!!! custom jumpseat install w/ captain seats, Hypertech tuner, MSD Blaster Coils, CB and twin antenna's, all electric interior, touch screen in dash. custom center console, with jump seat replacing original console. 1500 HD!

01-22-2008, 04:02 AM	#10
copperchevy Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Tyler, Texas Posts: 220	Re: Shaved door help The trick is in the cable tension. It has to be just right. I've seen most people replace the inside handle with the solenoid and attach the existing rod to make it work, which means they have to use the remote to get out of the vehicle also. I went a different route when installing my 50lb electric-life kit. I also added some autoloc door poppers for that extra pop. Heres a couple of pics. Attached Images __________________ Mexican

01-22-2008, 05:19 AM	#11
knightlife Dark Heart Motorsports Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: 29404 DKFX Posts: 683	Re: Shaved door help copper... I like the position of your popper.... I think I may relocate mine to that position... __________________ How Deep Can YOU Bleed..? 1985 Chevy Blazer K5- 6.2 N/A, 400 turbo trans CUCV, 12v converted... a new chapter 2005 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 6.0 powwwaa!!! custom jumpseat install w/ captain seats, Hypertech tuner, MSD Blaster Coils, CB and twin antenna's, all electric interior, touch screen in dash. custom center console, with jump seat replacing original console. 1500 HD!

01-22-2008, 09:08 AM	#12
Mtrhd329 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chowchilla, Ca Posts: 115	Re: Shaved door help copperchevy: what did you use to attach the cable to your door rod?

01-22-2008, 09:34 AM	#13
copperchevy Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Tyler, Texas Posts: 220	Re: Shaved door help I welded a nut to the rod and used small crimps to attach the cable at both the rod and the solenoid. I lost the crimps that came with my kit, so i got some from lowes. The sliding door glass pulley which i also got from lowes bolts up to the factory bottom hole of the inside handle after taking that bolt out. There was alot of play in the door handle so i shortened the rod to make it a bit stiffer. In doing so, it makes it easier on the solenoid to pull the latch open. Take it from me, cable tension is the key. If its too tight or too loose the solenoid is'nt going to pull the latch/door open. __________________ Mexican

01-23-2008, 09:06 PM	#14
Mr79C10 It Is What It Is,,,, Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: The Gun Shine StateFlorida* Posts: 1,765	Re: Shaved door help Pretty sweet idea on placement of your popper. __________________ 79 C10 Short Box ST8 6 bang'r Lowered w/ 3" Control arms, 2" Lower Coils and 4" shackles and hangers W/ FLIP KIT __--__* 79 C-10 project* .........................__ ..............._____ l __\___ ..............\|_(O)_ \|___(O) ] FAQ INDEX Thread The Kulture My Rat Den

02-03-2008, 08:50 AM	#15
Mr79C10 It Is What It Is,,,, Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: The Gun Shine StateFlorida* Posts: 1,765	Re: Shaved door help By the way, Which door poppers are those? __________________ 79 C10 Short Box ST8 6 bang'r Lowered w/ 3" Control arms, 2" Lower Coils and 4" shackles and hangers W/ FLIP KIT __--__* 79 C-10 project* .........................__ ..............._____ l __\___ ..............\|_(O)_ \|___(O) ] FAQ INDEX Thread The Kulture My Rat Den



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02-03-2008, 02:50 PM	#16
Mtrhd329 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chowchilla, Ca Posts: 115	Re: Shaved door help Update After putting this porject on the back burner for a while while i got some other "projects" done on the truck I decided that I didnt want to have to worry about the reliability of the solenoid. So I went to the junkyard and got some power window assemblies and put those in. Then I wired my windows to work off of the lock and unlock of my alarm. I think I am still going to go with a manual backup. Not sure if I should make the manual to the hood to recharge the battery or to the door. I leaning towards the door so no one can get into my car if they find my cable. Thanks for all the help even though I went the easy way out.

02-05-2008, 08:37 AM	#18
Mtrhd329 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chowchilla, Ca Posts: 115	Re: Shaved door help forgive me for sounding dumb but what actuates the bear claws?

02-05-2008, 10:14 AM	#20
Mtrhd329 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chowchilla, Ca Posts: 115	Re: Shaved door help So you would still be relying on the solenoid? OK. I have heard storied both ways with problems and praises for solenoids and i im glad i eliminated on of the potenital problems in my shaved handle setup.

02-05-2008, 01:08 PM	#21
piecesparts Parts and more parts Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Lebo, Kansas (middle of nowhere Posts: 6,821	Re: Shaved door help I think that you may be a little mixed here. The shaved door situation is going to have solenoids to operate the latches UNLESS you create a cable or rod system that does not need solenoids to actuate the latch. What is needed for many shaved doors is a door popper to get the door to "KICK" open slightly so that the door will disengage from the latch. The standard way of doing smooth doors is to leave the factory installed latcha nd search for a solenoid with the right amount of power to pull the latch assembly. There are different size solenoids to handle sifferent design latches. The "Bear Claw" latches mentioned are a totally new set of latches installed into the door or door frame to allow for a better latching design and does not need a door popper to assist the dooor opening. My setup in the 68 truck is mounted into the door frame and the latches will have a solenoid to open, along with a cable backup to allow opening in emeergencies or just for normal use from the inside of the cab. I plan on mounting the latch handles in my console. I once saw a guy that put latches on his rear door frame, but he put a rod down through the floor of the truck and he could operate the door with the tip of his shoe. If someone saw him do this, then they would know how to open his doors. Creativity is all over the map on this stuff.

02-05-2008, 04:04 PM	#22
Mtrhd329 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chowchilla, Ca Posts: 115	Re: Shaved door help I just dont want to rely on the solenoids. I am using my alarm to roll up and down my windows and i will open the latch by hand to get in. I have heard some bad things about the solenoids that i had. Plus All that was needed to get my alarm to roll up and down my windows was two relays that i already had laying around. So I'm just going an easier way out for now. Thank you for the informative reply. Im actually thinking about going with the bear claws and some GOOD solenoids later down the road.

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