The Question: S10 or No S10
 

I'm still laying out the plans for my 49 3600 and wanted to get some opintions ( I know there are many) :)

I am down to three plans for the truck.

#1.
Weld in an IFS (Scott dansforth) with S10 suspension
Swap rear end
drop in a 350/700r4

#2
MustanII front end
Swap rear end
drop in a 350/700r4

#3
Put the body onto an S10 rolling chassis
Add spacers to the rear end or swap it
drop in a 350/700r4


For option #3 I have located a 97 extended cab short bed rolling chassis for $275 with wheels/tires, all suspension, gas tank and steering column. Right now I'm leaning towards this option because I think I can get the truck on the road faster but I wanted some ideas from those of you have been through this a time or two.

Thanks!!
Ben in SC

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

I'm in the same boat as you. I just picked up a rolling 94 S10 chassis for 75 bucks. Being a laid off aircraft worker, money, or lack there of was my main motivation for going this route. The other two options you listed would eliminate the need for spacers and make the build more strait forward but if you have a little ingenuity and fabrication skills I think the S10 option would be equally satisfying. Break lines, fuel lines, gas tank already in place. Easy to find reasonably priced parts. Lots or lowering products out there if you like the low look. I am no authority on the subject but I think it's a good way to go.

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

Wow, I wish my deal had been that good...... Actually I havent bought it yet so I may still look around, did you call junk yards or find it from an individual?

Ben



PS, I do like and want the low look. :D

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

Personally I like the stock frame with an independent crossmember added along with changing the rear suspension. One primary reason. It is a heck of a lot easier to get all of the body parts lined up like they need to be and not have it look off kilter.

But there is a lot to be said for buying a complete chassis to go under the truck for 250 and having a rolling truck in a weekend's worth of work and the time and expense (which isn't much) that it takes to build a set of brackets/mounts that one of our members designed and was kind enough to offer up for us to use.
I have a copy of his design but don't seem to have the link to that thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=311681
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=8491

I'd probably want to swap to an S-10 4x4 rear end so as not to have to use the spacers though.

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

Well I did actually have to hunt down some rear springs (25 bucks) and shackles (15 bucks). I got the springs from one guy and she shackles from another. Funny thing was, the shackes were the ones that originally came off the truck. This kid said his uncle was the one who baught the rear springs off my S10. So I guess all in all it cost me 115 bucks. But I did get a spare S10 rear end 2WD as well as the one it was rolling on, and a gutted extended cab in descent shape (hope to get a few bucks out of all this stuff)

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

Currently working with the S10 swap myself.

Keep in mind that in using the 4x4 rear end, you will still want to play with the backspacing on the rims. Most of us are finding that 8" is the widest rear you will want to play with, with about 2 1/2" - 3" backspacing on the rears and about 2" - 2 1/2" on the front. This will alleviate the requirements for spacers and give a fairly old school deep dish look.

And yes, having the availability to walk into any Napa or Jim Bob's auto store and find any engine / chassis parts you're looking for... on the shelf.... priceless :metal:

I paid $400 for my s-dime and traded some sheet metal for the 4x4 rear ($100) and sold the seats for $150 so really... was only into it for $150 which gave me a rolling / running chassis... pretty cheap IMO but I still opted to rebuild and redo all the brake lines, rotors, pads and freshen the engine. After all, MUCH easier to do with the body off!

Cheers,
Ted.

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

a5Ben,

I can only speak to the s10 swap. The cab mounts mr48chevy was talking about was what I came up with after realizing this hobby takes real money. You can check my thread out if you like, http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=294539 The link he posted will get you started, but the cab will sit pretty high. All in all, I'm very happy with how it has all turned out. It goes to show that even a guy with no experience can go this route. If you have questions, fire away.

Good luck,
Jeff

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

Jeff,

I read your thread start to finish. Did you wind up having to raise your bed up any? My bed currently has a steel floor welded in that I plan/hope to remove and return to wood. I have pretty decent welding skills so I should be able to make up the mounts. I too am working on a small budget so anything I can do myself cheap is a PLUS!

Thanks,
Ben

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

Ben,

I ended up raising the bed floor 1 3/4. 2 inches would be best because I had to tweak a few things to make it all work. Budget wise, I'm into this thing (including engine machining) a $1.99 less than 3 grand (give or take). I think my budget is fantastic, but my wife, not so much. I've had a blast with it and my kids have to. It's been one of the most rewarding projects, even if it takes me 10 years to finish. I will help as much as I can.

Jeff

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

Im thinking of using an 84 camaro rear that measures 60 in.

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

Is that 60" measured over the wheel mounting surfaces?

Ray

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

Yes I believe so, I got the measurement off a website. I can measure it myself in a few days. Need some time to get stuff re-arranged in the shop. Isn't that a couple inches wider that the s10 4X4??? or close to the same??

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

Bartman, what happened to your half ton swap?

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

It's about right for the S-10, but it sounds too narrow for the Camaro. That's why I asked how the measurement was taken.

Ray

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

This might help:

http://www.carnut.com/specs/rear.html

Ben


PS, I pick up my rolling chassis this weekend. Now to collect parts to mount a 350 on it! :D

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

The camaro measures 60.5" wms to wms - The problem is when you start to add power to it, (the 7.5" or 9 bolt) it tends to break. The camaro guys break it with a 170hp 305 and sticky tires!!

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

camaro 8.5 fits nicely at about 60.5 or 61", plenty strong. I see them with posi and desirable gears (3.42, 3.73) from $200 to $400. I picked up a good 3.73 unit for $250 and it fits like a glove.

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

Those are 1970 to 1981 rear ends.

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

Mine is an 84 camaro rear end I believe a 10 bolt. Will possibly find time to check it out tomorrow. 109 degrees here in Wichita Kansas. Got to get out there early tomorrow.

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

Thanks for posting the info and the link Jeff. Your instructions an plans make it fairly inexpensive and easy for a guy to do the swap and have it right.

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

Yep, Camaro is fine. Ditch the 4x2. It is too narrow and the 4x4 still needs spacers. What are you "collecting" to put the 350 in it? All you need is a pair of motor mounts and some steel plate. If I were to do it again (and I will...) I'd slot the frame to take the steel plate, mount the engine to the plate, fit it where I wanted it, and weld the plate into the frame.

Re: The Question: S10 or No S10
 

Did some work on my S10 frame today. Cut the front frame horns back and cut all the cab mounst off. Got the Camaro rear mocked up. I measured the Camaro rear end and it measures 61 5/8 mounting surface to mounting surface with the drums on. I did a lot of measuring. The distance between the rear tires is currently 53 inches. The bed is 50 inches so I should have 1.5 inches between the tires and bed. The rear fenders look to be 12 inches deep so I should be able to run 8 inch and probably to 10 inch wheels with no problem. Will need to be mindfull of backspacing etc.