Cam break in
 

Just finished the first part of my cam install last night. I'm running a TSP Tsunami Cam (ground off of a Comp stick), and PRC dual valve springs with hardened push rods.
In the comp instructions it says to remove the inner valve spring and run the motor at 20min @ 2000rpm. I was checking on Ls1tech and they say that the hydraulic lifter engines don't require breakin like the flat tappets of old.

Anyone done dual springs, and if so, what break in (if any) did you undertake?

Re: Cam break in
 

Sorry dont have answer but i also would like to know. Will be watching this.

Re: Cam break in
 

Fire it up, let it idle (if it can) and let it get to operating temp. Let it idle for 5 or so minutes at opperating temp. Do this 2-3 times letting it cool down real well. Then go play with it.. You don't need to "break in" a roller cam, but it is always good to heat cycle the valve springs a few times before beating on them!!

Re: Cam break in
 

any opinion on the part about removing the inner spring first? Or is that part of the old-style breakin that I don't need to worry about.

Re: Cam break in
 

Just curious, what springs are you running..

I have never removed the inner spring, both springs need to be heat cycled. But I don't just fire it up and beet the snot out of it either.. Well, I do after it's heat cycled a few times and I make sure fuids all jive ect..

Re: Cam break in
 

PRC dual springs, good to .660 lift

Re: Cam break in
 

I believe that is a reference to breaking in a flat tappet cam, not a roller. The idea behind it is to allow the followers to break into the cam without excess pressure.

Re: Cam break in
 

ohh, that makes sense I suppose. Good, this saves me a step.

Re: Cam break in
 

I have the same springs in my LQ4 powered boat. I just put them in and ran the hell out of it. I never really heat cycled them other than starting it in the driveway a few times while tweaking my tune...then I went out and beat the piss out of it all summer.

No worries. Go run it!!

Re: Cam break in
 

That would constitute for heat cycling them. If you did a few cold/cool starts to full running temp, that's a heat cycle.

Re: Cam break in
 

thanks for the advice guys. Just waiting to grab my spring tool this week and throw them bad boys in . Pretty much the last step before I can reassemble and start to get this bastard back in the truck.

Re: Cam break in
 

What valve spring tool you going to use?
The old SBC tools will not work, you will want to get a LSx specific tool.
there are a few on the market.

Re: Cam break in
 

Hard to say, since the first couple times there was no coolant in the engine (open marine cooling) and the next few times it was on the garden hose with cold well water (saw maybe 140F max). I guess I will call them heat cycled...lol.

I have the crane cams spring tool, which allows you to do the intake and exhaust springs at the same time...it's a slick unit.

Re: Cam break in
 

I like that tool!!

Re: Cam break in
 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W84002/?rtype=10

so the good old fashion "peice of metal with hold and slot" style doesn't work? Not wanting to drop $50+ on a spring tool.

Re: Cam break in
 

I made one of the expensive 2 spring at once compressors at home.. For about $3 in junk metal laying around, it was time well spent!!

Re: Cam break in
 

Super73.... would you be so kind to post up a good pic of your home-made tool.
thanks

Re: Cam break in
 

There used to a guy on tech sellin a hand made tool. I have used it too but like the crane tool. But super could post pix that would be cool. The old skool style will pull stds out of head from what I have been told.
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: Cam break in
 

Ok... Keep in mind this tool was made in under 30 minutes and I was teaching a budy how to weld, so he did 99% of the welding. It is rough looking. I never went back to really clean up the plasma cutter lines (which would have come out better with a cutting wheel and grinder!!!). The sharp corners were never taken off (the burs were knowing it might jack up the aluminum heads). Had I spent a couple hours on this thing, it would have looked a million times better.

It is made from:
3/8 plate
1 x 2 square tube
1/2 x 2 square tube

Re: Cam break in
 

super73, you are the man............ i will put one of these together when we start to do the engine work.....
thanks again
Rich

Re: Cam break in
 

i ended up using the "jaw" type, which looks much like a suspension spring compressor. Has a set of teeth that fit into the coil, and then a set that compress from the top.

Re: Cam break in
 

I have that tool from LS1tech, the one that's just a small plate with a slot and a chamfered bolt hole. It worked but alignment is a beotch, very hard to get a straight enough shot to get both sides of the retainers on.

Re: Cam break in
 

It was this one
http://www.northerntool.com/images/p...9094279_lg.jpg

but i welded a lug nut to the top and operated it with air tools/socket