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Old 10-06-2010, 12:00 PM   #1
BR3W CITY
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Cam break in

Just finished the first part of my cam install last night. I'm running a TSP Tsunami Cam (ground off of a Comp stick), and PRC dual valve springs with hardened push rods.
In the comp instructions it says to remove the inner valve spring and run the motor at 20min @ 2000rpm. I was checking on Ls1tech and they say that the hydraulic lifter engines don't require breakin like the flat tappets of old.

Anyone done dual springs, and if so, what break in (if any) did you undertake?
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Old 10-06-2010, 10:58 PM   #2
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Re: Cam break in

Sorry dont have answer but i also would like to know. Will be watching this.
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Old 10-07-2010, 12:46 AM   #3
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Re: Cam break in

Fire it up, let it idle (if it can) and let it get to operating temp. Let it idle for 5 or so minutes at opperating temp. Do this 2-3 times letting it cool down real well. Then go play with it.. You don't need to "break in" a roller cam, but it is always good to heat cycle the valve springs a few times before beating on them!!
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Old 10-07-2010, 08:52 AM   #4
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Re: Cam break in

any opinion on the part about removing the inner spring first? Or is that part of the old-style breakin that I don't need to worry about.
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Old 10-07-2010, 05:15 PM   #5
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Re: Cam break in

Just curious, what springs are you running..

I have never removed the inner spring, both springs need to be heat cycled. But I don't just fire it up and beet the snot out of it either.. Well, I do after it's heat cycled a few times and I make sure fuids all jive ect..
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Old 10-07-2010, 05:48 PM   #6
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Re: Cam break in

PRC dual springs, good to .660 lift
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Old 10-07-2010, 07:18 PM   #7
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Re: Cam break in

Quote:
Originally Posted by BR3W CITY View Post
any opinion on the part about removing the inner spring first? Or is that part of the old-style breakin that I don't need to worry about.
I believe that is a reference to breaking in a flat tappet cam, not a roller. The idea behind it is to allow the followers to break into the cam without excess pressure.
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Old 10-08-2010, 08:50 AM   #8
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Re: Cam break in

ohh, that makes sense I suppose. Good, this saves me a step.
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Old 10-12-2010, 05:53 PM   #9
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Re: Cam break in

I have the same springs in my LQ4 powered boat. I just put them in and ran the hell out of it. I never really heat cycled them other than starting it in the driveway a few times while tweaking my tune...then I went out and beat the piss out of it all summer.

No worries. Go run it!!
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Old 10-13-2010, 01:23 AM   #10
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Re: Cam break in

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasted Income View Post
I never really heat cycled them other than starting it in the driveway a few times while tweaking my tune...


That would constitute for heat cycling them. If you did a few cold/cool starts to full running temp, that's a heat cycle.
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Old 10-13-2010, 08:33 AM   #11
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Re: Cam break in

thanks for the advice guys. Just waiting to grab my spring tool this week and throw them bad boys in . Pretty much the last step before I can reassemble and start to get this bastard back in the truck.
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Old 10-13-2010, 08:46 AM   #12
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Re: Cam break in

What valve spring tool you going to use?
The old SBC tools will not work, you will want to get a LSx specific tool.
there are a few on the market.
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Old 10-13-2010, 10:37 AM   #13
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Re: Cam break in

Quote:
Originally Posted by Super73 View Post
That would constitute for heat cycling them. If you did a few cold/cool starts to full running temp, that's a heat cycle.
Hard to say, since the first couple times there was no coolant in the engine (open marine cooling) and the next few times it was on the garden hose with cold well water (saw maybe 140F max). I guess I will call them heat cycled...lol.

Quote:
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What valve spring tool you going to use?
The old SBC tools will not work, you will want to get a LSx specific tool.
there are a few on the market.
I have the crane cams spring tool, which allows you to do the intake and exhaust springs at the same time...it's a slick unit.
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Old 10-13-2010, 10:39 AM   #14
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Re: Cam break in

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasted Income View Post
I have the crane cams spring tool, which allows you to do the intake and exhaust springs at the same time...it's a slick unit.
I like that tool!!
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Old 10-13-2010, 04:53 PM   #15
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Re: Cam break in

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W84002/?rtype=10

so the good old fashion "peice of metal with hold and slot" style doesn't work? Not wanting to drop $50+ on a spring tool.
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Old 10-13-2010, 04:57 PM   #16
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Re: Cam break in

I made one of the expensive 2 spring at once compressors at home.. For about $3 in junk metal laying around, it was time well spent!!
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Old 10-13-2010, 05:18 PM   #17
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Re: Cam break in

Super73.... would you be so kind to post up a good pic of your home-made tool.
thanks
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Old 10-13-2010, 06:37 PM   #18
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Re: Cam break in

There used to a guy on tech sellin a hand made tool. I have used it too but like the crane tool. But super could post pix that would be cool. The old skool style will pull stds out of head from what I have been told.
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Old 10-13-2010, 08:32 PM   #19
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Re: Cam break in

Ok... Keep in mind this tool was made in under 30 minutes and I was teaching a budy how to weld, so he did 99% of the welding. It is rough looking. I never went back to really clean up the plasma cutter lines (which would have come out better with a cutting wheel and grinder!!!). The sharp corners were never taken off (the burs were knowing it might jack up the aluminum heads). Had I spent a couple hours on this thing, it would have looked a million times better.

It is made from:
3/8 plate
1 x 2 square tube
1/2 x 2 square tube
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Old 10-16-2010, 03:54 PM   #20
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Re: Cam break in

super73, you are the man............ i will put one of these together when we start to do the engine work.....
thanks again
Rich
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Old 10-18-2010, 10:46 AM   #21
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Re: Cam break in

i ended up using the "jaw" type, which looks much like a suspension spring compressor. Has a set of teeth that fit into the coil, and then a set that compress from the top.
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Old 10-18-2010, 02:12 PM   #22
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Re: Cam break in

I have that tool from LS1tech, the one that's just a small plate with a slot and a chamfered bolt hole. It worked but alignment is a beotch, very hard to get a straight enough shot to get both sides of the retainers on.
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Old 10-18-2010, 03:38 PM   #23
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Re: Cam break in

It was this one


but i welded a lug nut to the top and operated it with air tools/socket
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