Oil change time!
 

Hey all, its time for me to change the oil in my truck, however I am not sure what weight to buy. Its an old worn out 350 and I wasn't the one who did the last oil change. And sadly my grandfather (the PO) is not with us to ask hahha. What would be a safe bet to buy? Thx
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Re: Oil change time!
 

I've always used a standard 10-W40 in 350's.

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I use rotellaT. I think it is for diesel engines but several people have convinced me it works wonders on old tired 350's. I think it has extra zinc in it. My mechanic who has been building big blocks for us since the 1970’s was adamant that I even use it on the 468 he just built me to break it in. Then he said to go with a synthetic oil after about 10,000 miles.

Re: Oil change time!
 

That's what I was going to buy, but a cousin of mine said 20w 50 so I thought I'd ask haha.
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Re: Oil change time!
 

20w50 isn't a bad choice if the motor is worn. I'd add some ZDDP Plus as well.

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I use Rotella -T also. It's 15w40. Works great on older engines.

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Castrol Syntec 20w-50 for classic cars that have a flat-tappet camshaft. It's what I put in my 250L6. Supposedly has plenty of zinc for the cam.

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I run 20W-50 VR1 in mine. Has a lot of zddp content. I previously ran SAE 50 with no problems.

Re: Oil change time!
 

how many quarts?

Re: Oil change time!
 

10-W40, 15w40, 20w-50, HOLY HANNA!

I notice all you guys are down south. Up here I run 10w-30 in all my V8s. Summer and winter.

That heavier stuff might not even allow your engine to turn over on a cold morning up here. You might even end up with a spun bearing.

I guess I should say not all my V8s run on 10w-30. The 2004 Explorer with a V8 calls for 5w-20.

Seriously. I'd be concerned about running that heavy of an oil where it gets cold.

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Five

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Only 5? my camery takes 5.

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When I saw 50wt, first thing I did was look at location. Yep, warm places.
I run 50wt non-detergent in my 45 2N ford tractor that needs a rebuild. In winter I change to 20w.

I run valvoline 10w30 in my 70(396bb) and 72(350sb).
Wifes chevelle w/a rebuilt 327 gets mobil-1. It don't leak(grin).

Have fun....don t. ....

Re: Oil change time!
 

I use whatever I got at the farm. Usually 10w30, sometimes 10w40 or 5w30, I hear hydraulic fluid works well to clean out the crankcase.

In other words, I'm not concerned with getting the highest quality oil in my motor. My motor is not nearly high-stress enough or used in high-stress applications enough to justify the expensive stuff. Nor is is it stock, so I don't have to worry about ruining an original motor.

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don't bother with the diesel oils (rotella) they now have LESS zink than the normal car oils.

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when i lived up in new york i always ran 20-50 in my older himilage vehicles and never had a problem with it for over 35 years of drivin them like that

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The Rotella T used to have zinc in it, but in the last year or so, the manufactuerers are rumored to have removed it. That is so they could meet the Federal requirements and continue to sell it. The additive is a necessary item for wear limitations on things like cam lobes and lifters.

I would say that your oil change depends on where you live and what temperatures you will be experiencing in the near future. Heavy weight oils is hard to move in cold temps, so many manufactuerers recommend a lighter weight oil in the winter months. GM will only warranty oils that are 5w30 weight in their newer cars, it is an all around oil weight for daily driving.

I run a 10W 30 oil year around and let my vehicles warm up slowly in the cold months, to limit abuse. My DD has just turned over 301,000 miles and is still running strong. I run a friction additive (Energy Release) in my oil pans and I believe that it has helped me get longevity out of my engines---I may be wrong, but it is my choice. I use Trop Artic oils, since I used to work in a county highway department shop and saw the inside of a lot of high mileage engines and how clean they were. The price on it is about as good as any and it works for me.

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This is what im planning on putting in my truck next year says zink right on the bottle:lol:. Just a thought.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx

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+1 for Valvoline VR1.

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being your in phoenix just run a 5 or 10w30 for the next couple cool months and youll be ok.. when it turns up the heat then jump to 20w-50 for some better protection...

if ya spin a bearing then it aint from the oil... the W stands for winter so if its 5w/10w then it shouldnt have a problem flowing in winter temps.... if you run straight 50 weight then yes i can see a problem...

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Could be! I have heard the rumor too. But I don't think they have done it yet. I just spent $6000 on a rebuild and he pretty much made me use rotella T to break it in. So I am just going by what he said.

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My machine shop owner buddy used Rotella T on his engine break ins, until last year. He now uses a line from a small company in Oklahoma that has all of the additives and friction reducer added to it. The studies that he has done, shows him that Rotella is not what it was, so he made the change.

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Everyones got opinions. For years my Dad, and now myself have run regular ol Quaker state 30wt (now 10w-30 beings straight 30 is hard to find) in South Texas. In that time my family has probably had 20 or so 350s in various vehicles and every one of them had at least 200,000 miles on them when they were sold. Not one ever burned a drop of oil or had any engine problems requiring a tear down. I am a firm believer that changing your oil regularly is more important than what you put in it (within reason, I wouldn't run the off-brand stuff that just says "Motor Oil" on it.) That being said, we run Mobil 1 synthetic in all our LS based engines. Mine is just another opinion to keep in mind...

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x2

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If you are looking for a high zinc oil for a wild flat tappet cam I use valvoline vv 855 which contains 2300 ppm of zinc. Napa has it behind the counter and it,s not for street use so I know it.s good for my motor.