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Managing coil/starter/temp guage wires...
What do you guys do to stash them out of the way, or at least make it look less like a rat's nest under the hood?
I've got all of my wires loose, and I want to rewire the new carb, coil, starter, temp guage, and detent switch so everything looks nice. Any pointers/advice? |
second that
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TAPE
Eastwood sells this non-sticky 7/8"w vinyl tape, just like GM used. Bundle all your lines like the original and go to town. Looks like a million bucks, if done right. :bowtie:
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I use an inexpensive reinforced plastic tubing that has a split down the side of it for tucking wires into the inside. It isn t good near extreme heat like really close to an exhaust manifod but it gives a showroom finish to the wiring under the hood. Cant remember the actual name for it but always get it at the parts place (Lordco or Napa). Available in different colors usually too.
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I second chip and use the little plastic hoop style mounts to keep it neat.I think I have about $8.00-10.00 in all the detail work for my underhood wiring.
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Oh, so you guys used the split tube stuff...did you drill holes in your firewall to mount the brackets? In other words what did you do around the hump to get the wiring to your coil and your temp sensor on the block? I've noticed my most difficult spot will be around the back of the motor where I have about 20 acres of open space...
Thanks- |
That stuff is called convaluted tubing. I used it as well and just wire tied it up wherever was handy.
Also, a trick that I learned years ago, if you're looking for something a little different, wherever you have a single wire running to a terminal (coil, alternator or whatever), wrap it numerous times around a pencil, then slide the pencil out before you hook the wire up. You end up with wires that are coiled up like a phone cord. |
I like the coil up idea..............I generally either shortened the wire or put the extra where it couldn't be seen.
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If you have access to Swagelok tubing, like I do, then use stainless steel tubing. My dad used it on his car, even used it on his spark plug wires. Expensive but makes it look nice.
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I think the tape looks best.
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adamls
How about some shots of the stainless ... |
Pictures
My dad lives quite a ways from me, I do not have access to the car or my dad's expertise. I wished I did, it would help with my rebuild.
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If you're gonna tape wrap it make sure you use the non adhesive stuff that sticks to itself. If you just use standard sticky insulating tape it looks like cr*p after a year or so as it attracts dust and starts to come unstuck. I'm probably gonna go with the split tubing, I also intend putting short lengths of heat shrink tubing over most of the wire to wire connectors to secure and protect them.
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With the split tube stuff and small clamps I usually use the original holes.There are holes where the original wire was run thru a rubber cover.
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Well, I ended up using the split tube stuff. I picked up 3 8' lengths at NAPA. I used 3/8" so I could tuck it away along the top of the fire-wall, and between the radiator and the support. I got rubber coated clips to tie it down, and fit them in wherever I had a sheet metal screw or bolt that was a small enough shank to fit through the clips. I couldn't find a 3/8" T to split the conduit from the firewall connection to the coil, and to the starter, so I went to the hardware store and got a 3/8" copper pipe "T" (you normally use for sweating copper pipe). The conduit fit PERFECTLY into the T. I discretely used black electrical tape to bind the ends werever I cut the conduit, at the T, and every 6-8" so it would stay together as I tucked it away, and so the wires don't start to peak out over time.
I ended up having to rewire the coil, the starter, the temp guage wire, the wire to the proportioning valve, the new wires for the electric choke on the carb, the alternator, and the new detent switch. The trickiest part was wiring the new electric choke. The - went to the carb choke housing, but the power had to be somehow routed to the circuit box under the dash. I used some smaller clips under the valve cover hold-downs to route the wire away from the carb. I then put a small clip under the - side of the coil, and used that to route the wire to the conduit for the coil. From there it passed through the T to the firewall, and from there to under the dash. It's turning out really cool. I'll snap some pics when I have it all done... Thanks guys. |
Any pics yet?
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I'll post some tonight. I wish I had a decent camera!
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