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wheel bearing trouble!
i have owned this truck for a little over 2 years now. Approx. Every 6 months the driver side wheel bearing dries up and falls apart on me. I replace the passanger side every time just to be on the safe side but its always in good condition. This is the 4th time that the driver side wheel bearing has worn out on me. I have replaced the rotor twice, also replaced the spindle once. I make sure that they are packed nicely with high heat disk bearing grease. Im sure i haven't over tightened the axle nut. Any suggestions. What could be causing only one side to wear out???
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Re: wheel bearing trouble!
are you stuck taking right turns haha jk. is your grease leaking out or just drying up?
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Re: wheel bearing trouble!
sounds like u need to start applying to jobs that perform lots of wheel bearing replacement/repacking, your gonna be a pro at it fast.
my suggestion is to make SURE your tightening axle nut correctly, it says to only tighten to like 15ish ft lbs then loosen and re tighten HAND tight so you MIGHT be over tightening the axle nut and not even knowing it. |
Re: wheel bearing trouble!
are you installing the grease seal ? when i do wheel bearings i grease up or pack my bearings i throw some grease on the race before throwing in the bearings and i grease up the axel shaft then i tighten up the spindle nut as per specs and put the wheel on..
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Re: wheel bearing trouble!
Is the grease seal still good between the backing plate & the spindle?
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Re: wheel bearing trouble!
i'll have to check the seal when I remove the bearings later this week. But I replaced the seal also the last time. And the Grease is not just drying up. (well this time any way) It kind of just oozed out , so much that it pushed the CUP thingy that goes over the axle nut.
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Re: wheel bearing trouble!
Few Questions
Are you replacing the rases with the bearing? Some skip this believing the old is still good and not pressing it out. Are you using high tempature grease? And could you possibly over greasing? |
Re: wheel bearing trouble!
I didnt know it was possible to over grease so this could be possible.
what is the race? Got a pic??? I just replaced the rotor today because the lip on the inside was broken..... this is the 2nd time. I have eveything needed to put back together so i'll try and get this done tomorrow.. |
Re: wheel bearing trouble!
try making your grease cap fit a little tighter i put a dent on the lip of my cap cause it leaked and would sometimes fall off, this should prevent your grease from disapearing
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Re: wheel bearing trouble!
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Bingo! the race is that shiny metal sleeve that comes on the outside of the bearing when its in the box. you need to knock the old one out and press the new one in everytime you do a wheel bearing. |
Re: wheel bearing trouble!
Even though this post is old, I was surprised that anyone would not replace both, so for instructional purposes here is a Race (left) and a Bearing (right).
They are two halves of rotational bliss, replace them as a pair. http://www.mpdracing.com/product_ima...65665_zoom.jpg |
Re: wheel bearing trouble!
If using a new rotor no need to change the race as the one in the rotor is new.
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Re: wheel bearing trouble!
Even with a new rotor that has new bearings races inside I still pull those out and run a matched set just to be sure. I'm sure nobody else has had a problem but I like to be sure.
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Re: wheel bearing trouble!
I just did mine. New rotors, New bearings. Banged out the races and installed the new races that came with the new bearings. Toss the new races that came with the rotors. Repack the bearings with good bearing grease and coat the inside of the rotor with a bit of grease. Apply a thin layer to the spindle as well. New seals and install. Tighten the nut while spinning the rotor in the direction of nut tightening till the bearing seats. Back the nut off to the nearest hole for the cotter pin lineup. The rotor always has a bit of looseness to knock the pads back so they don't drag on the rotor. You wont feel this play but it is there. Always back off the nut to the nearest cotter pin hole, never tighten to the nearest hole.
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Re: wheel bearing trouble!
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Re: wheel bearing trouble!
The whole matched set deal is over blown. When you get into bigger bearings, they don't even come with races. You have to buy the bearing and the race separate from each other. That's not a matched set. I figure if it was a valid concern, Timken would have them sold as a set rather than two separate part numbers and boxes.
http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...b4e3cf0323.jpg |
Re: wheel bearing trouble!
^^^This.
Long as the bearing & race are both new it doesn't matter what box they came in. You just want to avoid a new bearing riding in a used race that already has an established wear pattern. |
Re: wheel bearing trouble!
I agree.
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Re: wheel bearing trouble!
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Re: wheel bearing trouble!
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exactly |
Re: wheel bearing trouble!
Yes, because they are the same manufacturer, a race with the correct hardness and surface finish. No guarantee with an already installed race, what manufacturer is it? I wouldn't take the change, especially with the cot of a race and bearing set and the amount of work it usually is
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Re: wheel bearing trouble!
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Re: wheel bearing trouble!
These days I'm concerned with the quality of most things. Being in Europe, if I order stuff from Summit or the likes I get a bunch of paperwork stating country of origin for the products (some kind of homeland security thing I was told) and it's all China and thereabouts.
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