wheel bearing trouble! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

HTX86chevy · 10-17-2011, 04:36 PM

i have owned this truck for a little over 2 years now. Approx. Every 6 months the driver side wheel bearing dries up and falls apart on me. I replace the passanger side every time just to be on the safe side but its always in good condition. This is the 4th time that the driver side wheel bearing has worn out on me. I have replaced the rotor twice, also replaced the spindle once. I make sure that they are packed nicely with high heat disk bearing grease. Im sure i haven't over tightened the axle nut. Any suggestions. What could be causing only one side to wear out???

INSIDIOUS '86 · 10-17-2011, 09:57 PM

are you stuck taking right turns haha jk. is your grease leaking out or just drying up?

ProStreet83C10 · 10-17-2011, 10:22 PM

sounds like u need to start applying to jobs that perform lots of wheel bearing replacement/repacking, your gonna be a pro at it fast.

my suggestion is to make SURE your tightening axle nut correctly, it says to only tighten to like 15ish ft lbs then loosen and re tighten HAND tight so you MIGHT be over tightening the axle nut and not even knowing it.

**old Rusty C10** · 10-18-2011, 08:57 AM

are you installing the grease seal ? when i do wheel bearings i grease up or pack my bearings i throw some grease on the race before throwing in the bearings and i grease up the axel shaft then i tighten up the spindle nut as per specs and put the wheel on..

SCOTI · 10-18-2011, 10:56 AM

Is the grease seal still good between the backing plate & the spindle?

HTX86chevy · 10-18-2011, 05:38 PM

i'll have to check the seal when I remove the bearings later this week. But I replaced the seal also the last time. And the Grease is not just drying up. (well this time any way) It kind of just oozed out , so much that it pushed the CUP thingy that goes over the axle nut.

Eyegore · 10-18-2011, 06:20 PM

Few Questions
Are you replacing the rases with the bearing? Some skip this believing the old is still good and not pressing it out.
Are you using high tempature grease?
And could you possibly over greasing?

HTX86chevy · 10-19-2011, 09:31 PM

I didnt know it was possible to over grease so this could be possible.
what is the race? Got a pic??? I just replaced the rotor today because the lip on the inside was broken..... this is the 2nd time. I have eveything needed to put back together so i'll try and get this done tomorrow..

INSIDIOUS '86 · 10-19-2011, 09:36 PM

try making your grease cap fit a little tighter i put a dent on the lip of my cap cause it leaked and would sometimes fall off, this should prevent your grease from disapearing

willett · 10-19-2011, 11:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HTX86chevy

I didnt know it was possible to over grease so this could be possible.
what is the race? Got a pic???

Bingo!

the race is that shiny metal sleeve that comes on the outside of the bearing when its in the box.

you need to knock the old one out and press the new one in everytime you do a wheel bearing.

swissarmychainsaw · 01-07-2014, 09:05 PM

Even though this post is old, I was surprised that anyone would not replace both, so for instructional purposes here is a Race (left) and a Bearing (right).

They are two halves of rotational bliss, replace them as a pair.

mgchevyparts · 01-07-2014, 09:41 PM

If using a new rotor no need to change the race as the one in the rotor is new.

INSIDIOUS '86 · 01-08-2014, 01:06 AM

Even with a new rotor that has new bearings races inside I still pull those out and run a matched set just to be sure. I'm sure nobody else has had a problem but I like to be sure.

kelsfine69 · 01-08-2014, 01:21 AM

I just did mine. New rotors, New bearings. Banged out the races and installed the new races that came with the new bearings. Toss the new races that came with the rotors. Repack the bearings with good bearing grease and coat the inside of the rotor with a bit of grease. Apply a thin layer to the spindle as well. New seals and install. Tighten the nut while spinning the rotor in the direction of nut tightening till the bearing seats. Back the nut off to the nearest hole for the cotter pin lineup. The rotor always has a bit of looseness to knock the pads back so they don't drag on the rotor. You wont feel this play but it is there. Always back off the nut to the nearest cotter pin hole, never tighten to the nearest hole.

TwinTurbo · 01-08-2014, 05:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

Even with a new rotor that has new bearings races inside I still pull those out and run a matched set just to be sure. I'm sure nobody else has had a problem but I like to be sure.

I do the same, always install matched set

Tx Firefighter · 01-08-2014, 06:10 AM

The whole matched set deal is over blown. When you get into bigger bearings, they don't even come with races. You have to buy the bearing and the race separate from each other. That's not a matched set. I figure if it was a valid concern, Timken would have them sold as a set rather than two separate part numbers and boxes.

swb85 · 01-08-2014, 10:24 AM

^^^This.
Long as the bearing & race are both new it doesn't matter what box they came in. You just want to avoid a new bearing riding in a used race that already has an established wear pattern.

**Corts60** · 01-08-2014, 10:37 AM

I agree.

tony58 · 01-08-2014, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwinTurbo

I do the same, always install matched set

They're all matched sets as long as the bearing number and race number is correct.

tony58 · 01-08-2014, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swb85

^^^this.
Long as the bearing & race are both new it doesn't matter what box they came in. You just want to avoid a new bearing riding in a used race that already has an established wear pattern.

exactly

TwinTurbo · 01-08-2014, 12:43 PM

Yes, because they are the same manufacturer, a race with the correct hardness and surface finish. No guarantee with an already installed race, what manufacturer is it? I wouldn't take the change, especially with the cot of a race and bearing set and the amount of work it usually is

tony58 · 01-08-2014, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwinTurbo

Yes, because they are the same manufacturer, a race with the correct hardness and surface finish. No guarantee with an already installed race, what manufacturer is it? I wouldn't take the change, especially with the cot of a race and bearing set and the amount of work it usually is

If you're concerned about the quality of the race in a rotor then I would think you should also be worried about the quality of the rotor itself. Truth is, they are made to the same specifications

TwinTurbo · 01-08-2014, 06:44 PM

These days I'm concerned with the quality of most things. Being in Europe, if I order stuff from Summit or the likes I get a bunch of paperwork stating country of origin for the products (some kind of homeland security thing I was told) and it's all China and thereabouts.

10-17-2011, 04:36 PM	#1
HTX86chevy Registered User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Houston, Tx Posts: 349	wheel bearing trouble! i have owned this truck for a little over 2 years now. Approx. Every 6 months the driver side wheel bearing dries up and falls apart on me. I replace the passanger side every time just to be on the safe side but its always in good condition. This is the 4th time that the driver side wheel bearing has worn out on me. I have replaced the rotor twice, also replaced the spindle once. I make sure that they are packed nicely with high heat disk bearing grease. Im sure i haven't over tightened the axle nut. Any suggestions. What could be causing only one side to wear out??? __________________

10-17-2011, 09:57 PM	#2
INSIDIOUS '86 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: washington Posts: 4,178	Re: wheel bearing trouble! are you stuck taking right turns haha jk. is your grease leaking out or just drying up? __________________ 377 sbc thumpr cam autogear m23 muncie 3:73 Detroit trutrac 3''spintech prostreet mufflers xpipe 1 3/4 headers build thread !http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=577217 Iroc gauge threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554511

10-17-2011, 10:22 PM	#3
ProStreet83C10 Drag Racer Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Mason City, Iowa Posts: 1,276	Re: wheel bearing trouble! sounds like u need to start applying to jobs that perform lots of wheel bearing replacement/repacking, your gonna be a pro at it fast. my suggestion is to make SURE your tightening axle nut correctly, it says to only tighten to like 15ish ft lbs then loosen and re tighten HAND tight so you MIGHT be over tightening the axle nut and not even knowing it. __________________ Zach Hall 1983 Chevy C10 R/T: .194 60': 2.322 330: 6.379 1/8: 9.803 MPH: 71.37 1000: 12.781 1/4: 15.314 MPH: 88.79

10-18-2011, 08:57 AM	#4
old Rusty C10 Robert Olson Transport Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: recent transplant to NC USA Posts: 20,276	Re: wheel bearing trouble! are you installing the grease seal ? when i do wheel bearings i grease up or pack my bearings i throw some grease on the race before throwing in the bearings and i grease up the axel shaft then i tighten up the spindle nut as per specs and put the wheel on.. __________________ Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!!

10-18-2011, 10:56 AM	#5
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 21,933	Re: wheel bearing trouble! Is the grease seal still good between the backing plate & the spindle? __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

10-18-2011, 05:38 PM	#6
HTX86chevy Registered User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Houston, Tx Posts: 349	Re: wheel bearing trouble! i'll have to check the seal when I remove the bearings later this week. But I replaced the seal also the last time. And the Grease is not just drying up. (well this time any way) It kind of just oozed out , so much that it pushed the CUP thingy that goes over the axle nut. __________________

10-18-2011, 06:20 PM	#7
Eyegore What Hump? Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: New River AZ Posts: 2,009	Re: wheel bearing trouble! Few Questions Are you replacing the rases with the bearing? Some skip this believing the old is still good and not pressing it out. Are you using high tempature grease? And could you possibly over greasing? __________________ Lil red 86 c-10 99 Sub 78 Camper Special w/ 454

10-19-2011, 09:31 PM	#8
HTX86chevy Registered User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Houston, Tx Posts: 349	Re: wheel bearing trouble! I didnt know it was possible to over grease so this could be possible. what is the race? Got a pic??? I just replaced the rotor today because the lip on the inside was broken..... this is the 2nd time. I have eveything needed to put back together so i'll try and get this done tomorrow.. __________________

10-19-2011, 09:36 PM	#9
INSIDIOUS '86 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: washington Posts: 4,178	Re: wheel bearing trouble! try making your grease cap fit a little tighter i put a dent on the lip of my cap cause it leaked and would sometimes fall off, this should prevent your grease from disapearing __________________ 377 sbc thumpr cam autogear m23 muncie 3:73 Detroit trutrac 3''spintech prostreet mufflers xpipe 1 3/4 headers build thread !http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=577217 Iroc gauge threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554511

01-07-2014, 09:05 PM	#11
swissarmychainsaw Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: san francisco, ca (east bay) Posts: 674	Re: wheel bearing trouble! Even though this post is old, I was surprised that anyone would not replace both, so for instructional purposes here is a Race (left) and a Bearing (right). They are two halves of rotational bliss, replace them as a pair.

01-07-2014, 09:41 PM	#12
mgchevyparts Registered User Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Upland, Calif Posts: 698	Re: wheel bearing trouble! If using a new rotor no need to change the race as the one in the rotor is new. __________________ 1957 CHEVY 1/2 TON SHORT BED 1940 FORD 1/2 TON SHORT BED

01-08-2014, 01:06 AM	#13
INSIDIOUS '86 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: washington Posts: 4,178	Re: wheel bearing trouble! Even with a new rotor that has new bearings races inside I still pull those out and run a matched set just to be sure. I'm sure nobody else has had a problem but I like to be sure. __________________ 377 sbc thumpr cam autogear m23 muncie 3:73 Detroit trutrac 3''spintech prostreet mufflers xpipe 1 3/4 headers build thread !http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=577217 Iroc gauge threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554511

01-08-2014, 01:21 AM	#14
kelsfine69 18 Till I Die Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 1,522	Re: wheel bearing trouble! I just did mine. New rotors, New bearings. Banged out the races and installed the new races that came with the new bearings. Toss the new races that came with the rotors. Repack the bearings with good bearing grease and coat the inside of the rotor with a bit of grease. Apply a thin layer to the spindle as well. New seals and install. Tighten the nut while spinning the rotor in the direction of nut tightening till the bearing seats. Back the nut off to the nearest hole for the cotter pin lineup. The rotor always has a bit of looseness to knock the pads back so they don't drag on the rotor. You wont feel this play but it is there. Always back off the nut to the nearest cotter pin hole, never tighten to the nearest hole. __________________ 2011 GMC Acadia 1969 GMC BBC LS7 2007 GMC Crew Duramax 1987 Camaro Iroc 350 Tuned Port Injection 42000Km 1987 Chevrolet Silverado 350 TBI 1987 Chevrolet Silverado 350 TBI(yes 2) Take me drunk, I'm too home...

01-08-2014, 06:10 AM	#16
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Re: wheel bearing trouble! The whole matched set deal is over blown. When you get into bigger bearings, they don't even come with races. You have to buy the bearing and the race separate from each other. That's not a matched set. I figure if it was a valid concern, Timken would have them sold as a set rather than two separate part numbers and boxes. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

01-08-2014, 10:24 AM	#17
swb85 On a budget like Fred Sanford Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Topeka, KS Posts: 2,031	Re: wheel bearing trouble! ^^^This. Long as the bearing & race are both new it doesn't matter what box they came in. You just want to avoid a new bearing riding in a used race that already has an established wear pattern. __________________ '85 Silverado swb: 383 stroker, 10.5:1, vortec heads, 232/238 roller cam, RPM air gap, performer 750 carb, stainless longtubes, 3" duals/super 44's, T56/4.11 383ci build / exterior refresh thread '98 Camaro z28: 370ci twin turbo 370ci build '01 Tahoe LT 4x4: 5.3, longtubes/ory, magnaflow duals, custom tune....wife's DD



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01-08-2014, 10:37 AM	#18
Corts60 Just here to tinker Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Holland, MI Posts: 3,687	Re: wheel bearing trouble! I agree. __________________ 78 C10 SWB Diesel #1 (wrecked)http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...1978+silverado 78 C10 SWB Diesel #2 (sold)http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=650751 60 GMC Suburban (sold)http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=445526 60 GMC 1000 (sold)http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=298235 67 GMC 1500 (sold) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=803695 86 Suburban(summer unit) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=810697 88 Suburban 4x4(winter unit)https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...25#post8900725

01-08-2014, 12:43 PM	#21
TwinTurbo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 994	Re: wheel bearing trouble! Yes, because they are the same manufacturer, a race with the correct hardness and surface finish. No guarantee with an already installed race, what manufacturer is it? I wouldn't take the change, especially with the cot of a race and bearing set and the amount of work it usually is

01-08-2014, 06:44 PM	#23
TwinTurbo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 994	Re: wheel bearing trouble! These days I'm concerned with the quality of most things. Being in Europe, if I order stuff from Summit or the likes I get a bunch of paperwork stating country of origin for the products (some kind of homeland security thing I was told) and it's all China and thereabouts.

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