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rear main seal
do i need to raise engine to change rear main seal?i have an original 327 on my 66
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Re: rear main seal
If memory serves me right, you should be able to remove the pan with the engine still in the mounts. I haven't done this job in a '60-'66, but have done it a '67-'72 and they should be pretty similar.
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Re: rear main seal
I did it with the engine still in. I did raise the engine some after breaking the mounts loose at the frame. It's still tight but can be done. Mine is a 350.
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Re: rear main seal
Sorry, unrelated jabber:
I can de-pan 1966 305E V6 w/o touching mounts. I did drop oil pump and had to clock crank to free pan. The 305E main seal is recessed deep (pan flange is flat all around). I wouldn't wanna try replacing 305E seal w/o removing crank. Of course other engines w/ half moon pan flange and 2 piece seals are sometimes easy to change. |
Re: rear main seal
No, I just did the rear main on my 66 327. you may have to roll the crank some to clear the counter weights. I did not raise my engine at all. You'll have to drop the pump so the pan can clear the cross member and pump. Make sure you use the white shims that come with the rear seal so you don't shave the seal. Also oil up the seal before you put it in and clock the seal so the seam isn't flush with the rear main cap mating surface. one last thing, Put a little grease on the lip prioir to installation so you don't smoke the seal on initial start up. and retorque the rear cap!!!
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Re: rear main seal
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Re: rear main seal
I wouldn't redo if pan installed. Fresh seal should respond well to seal conditioner. Was old seal hardened and brittle?
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Re: rear main seal
geez seems kinda difficult,i never done that before.but i guess thats the only way i will learn.
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Re: rear main seal
thx txrat .did it stop the leak.i was told some seals keep on leaking after you change them.on this particular type???
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