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Pictures Of Frame Prep/Paint
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I am reading a lot of our articles on products like Por 15, Rust Hammered, Eastwoods, etc., but I learn best through visual. That being said, Does anyone know of a thread or have pictures of their own builds of right before and after paint? I am trying to see what "bare metal" means to everyone, or what a frame should look like prior to Por15/Eastwood application over rust. I really appreciate your help. I just dont want to commit to a certain path, then figure out I didnt prep properly then have to blast and powder coat or something (both are out of my budget). I plan on doing all prep with my hands and hopefully finding a product I can brush on. Mahalo! |
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I have used both KBS Coat and POR15. Both layed down and smoothed nicely. You have to prep well though... Bare metal is bare metal. Any paint and it wont stick long. I did notice the POR15 turning purple with time though. I just rattle canned over it and called it a day. If I had it to do over again, KBS is the same thing, holds up just as well and is half the price of POR15.
My 2 cents for that its worth. |
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You would be surprised what some places will sandblast for. I paid 150 for all components of my short box frame to be done. You'd spend weeks sanding to get a comparable prep job
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But seeing as this will be a DD, I also know I can do good prep and get a good paint afterwards as well. If that makes sense. |
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Understandable, I've always had good luck degreasing, cut brush and maybe some 80 grit and paint. Rust tuff make a semi flat paint that IMO has a great and super strong finish.
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May of been the wrong word but one of these wire cups
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I use kbs's gas tank sealer on my Dnepr motorcycle. It worked great and much better than kreem. Very nice system.
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So you have used a wire wheel or cutter (whatever that picture is) to prep a frame? What paint did you use afterwards? |
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SPent about 2 minutes on the frame with my wire wheel and drill, heres the product. Check out my build thread for my thoughts.
Attachment 1185443 |
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A little before and after.....Started with a clean AZ frame, power washed and de-greased with Home Depot "Super Purple", sprayed on a phosphate metal prep followed by a scuff with red scotch-brite pad. Paint used was SEM "Rust Shield" and was applied with brush in some tight areas followed by spray. Pending on how you thin/spray it it can be matte or gloss.
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I used 1 gal for a complete LWB frame. http://www.semproducts.com/product-c...n/rust-shield/ |
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Power washed and used Dawn, blasted, then POR 15. Rear was swapped out to 5 lug.
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You might try using a paint stripping disc, they work like a wire wheel but a bit faster. They sale them at home depot, but a vendor has them on here as well.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=584223 |
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sand blasting is suprisingly cheap too. If I did it again, I would have it blasted but, I did mine is seperate parts with the cab still on so, I used the disc. |
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Sand blasted and sprayed with Summit Racing Frame Paint.
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But these pads look to be a good option other then wire wheeling, although I believe I can get good results with it on my particular frame. |
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I also assume if I use this pad, I will not have this bare metal I have from last nights work, that now needs to be primed to avoid rust. Is that correct? |
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The paint stripping disc will take it down to bare metal as well. I have done some spots on my frame and it has been sitting for a couple of months now and no rust. It doesn't take it down to raw metal like sandblasting does. You can see a few examples of how it will look on the link above for the vendor that sales the disc he did a door. You will want to go ahead and prime or paint what you can. The advantage of the disc is it strips faster than a wire wheel and no flying wires.
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Forgot to mention that the parts that aren't rusting yet are sitting inside the shop. So if your parts are inside you have a little bit of time. But priming ASAP is best.
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The discs work great for smoothing out welding on sheet metal... just have to be careful not to buld up too much heat or it will get wavy... that isnt an issue on a frame.... Hot up lowes or home depot... or even harbor freight. You can pick up a grinder super cheap... the most dangerous tool I have but, it is also the fastest and most used to cut, grind and sand!
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