Pictures Of Frame Prep/Paint

[Jahloha]

Team:

I am reading a lot of our articles on products like Por 15, Rust Hammered, Eastwoods, etc., but I learn best through visual. That being said,

Does anyone know of a thread or have pictures of their own builds of right before and after paint? I am trying to see what "bare metal" means to everyone, or what a frame should look like prior to Por15/Eastwood application over rust.

I really appreciate your help. I just dont want to commit to a certain path, then figure out I didnt prep properly then have to blast and powder coat or something (both are out of my budget).

I plan on doing all prep with my hands and hopefully finding a product I can brush on.

Mahalo!

[808_67C10]

I have used both KBS Coat and POR15. Both layed down and smoothed nicely. You have to prep well though... Bare metal is bare metal. Any paint and it wont stick long. I did notice the POR15 turning purple with time though. I just rattle canned over it and called it a day. If I had it to do over again, KBS is the same thing, holds up just as well and is half the price of POR15.

My 2 cents for that its worth.

[67ctener]

You would be surprised what some places will sandblast for. I paid 150 for all components of my short box frame to be done. You'd spend weeks sanding to get a comparable prep job

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by 808_67C10

I have used both KBS Coat and POR15. Both layed down and smoothed nicely. You have to prep well though... Bare metal is bare metal. Any paint and it wont stick long. I did notice the POR15 turning purple with time though. I just rattle canned over it and called it a day. If I had it to do over again, KBS is the same thing, holds up just as well and is half the price of POR15.

My 2 cents for that its worth.

Mahalo for the input. I have just started reading about KBS. Anything good enough for back home in the 808, would be just fine out here in dry Utah.

Originally Posted by 67ctener

Consider sandblasting. I paid 150 for all components of my short box frame to be done. You'd spend weeks sanding to get a comparable prep job

I know man. I am very much torn. I do not have plans to remove the cab, but I am starting to get into that "might as well" stage because I have everything torn out already.

But seeing as this will be a DD, I also know I can do good prep and get a good paint afterwards as well. If that makes sense.

[67ctener]

Understandable, I've always had good luck degreasing, cut brush and maybe some 80 grit and paint. Rust tuff make a semi flat paint that IMO has a great and super strong finish.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by 67ctener

Understandable, I've always had good luck degreasing, cut brush and maybe some 80 grit and paint. Rust tuff make a semi flat paint that IMO has a great and super strong finish.

What does cut brush mean? Like cutting in? I dont want to assume ha.

[67ctener]

May of been the wrong word but one of these wire cups

[guzzidude]

I use kbs's gas tank sealer on my Dnepr motorcycle. It worked great and much better than kreem. Very nice system.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by 67ctener

May of been the wrong word but one of these wire cups

Oh gotcha, yeah I bought one of those for the flat surfaces and a wheel for grooves. I am testing the system out tonight on a two foot section to see how the results look.

So you have used a wire wheel or cutter (whatever that picture is) to prep a frame? What paint did you use afterwards?

[Jahloha]

SPent about 2 minutes on the frame with my wire wheel and drill, heres the product. Check out my build thread for my thoughts.

[DaHos]

A little before and after.....Started with a clean AZ frame, power washed and de-greased with Home Depot "Super Purple", sprayed on a phosphate metal prep followed by a scuff with red scotch-brite pad. Paint used was SEM "Rust Shield" and was applied with brush in some tight areas followed by spray. Pending on how you thin/spray it it can be matte or gloss.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by DaHos

A little before and after.....Started with a clean AZ frame, power washed and de-greased with Home Depot "Super Purple", sprayed on a phosphate metal prep followed by a scuff with red scotch-brite pad. Paint used was SEM "Rust Shield" and was applied with brush in some tight areas followed by spray. Pending on how you thin/spray it it can be matte or gloss.

Looks great! So you didnt use any primer?

[DaHos]

Originally Posted by Jahloha

Looks great! So you didnt use any primer?

Thanks, No primer used.....per tech sheet.

I used 1 gal for a complete LWB frame.

http://www.semproducts.com/product-c...n/rust-shield/

[Sammy]

Power washed and used Dawn, blasted, then POR 15. Rear was swapped out to 5 lug.

[KMC3420]

You might try using a paint stripping disc, they work like a wire wheel but a bit faster. They sale them at home depot, but a vendor has them on here as well.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=584223

[808_67C10]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

You might try using a paint stripping disc, they work like a wire wheel but a bit faster. They sale them at home depot, but a vendor has them on here as well.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=584223

Agreed, the stripping disc is amazing! It took me a while to stumble apon one but I am sold. I used to wire wheel the $hit out of everything but the disc is much better on the end of a grinder!

sand blasting is suprisingly cheap too. If I did it again, I would have it blasted but, I did mine is seperate parts with the cab still on so, I used the disc.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

You might try using a paint stripping disc, they work like a wire wheel but a bit faster. They sale them at home depot, but a vendor has them on here as well.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=584223

Originally Posted by 808_67C10

Agreed, the stripping disc is amazing! It took me a while to stumble apon one but I am sold. I used to wire wheel the $hit out of everything but the disc is much better on the end of a grinder!

sand blasting is suprisingly cheap too. If I did it again, I would have it blasted but, I did mine is seperate parts with the cab still on so, I used the disc.

You guys buy these from the vendor in the post? Also, looks like they only work on grinders (a tool I do not have, yet). Thats one thing about the wire wheels, I can use it in my drills.

[88fordf150]

Sand blasted and sprayed with Summit Racing Frame Paint.

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by Jahloha

You guys buy these from the vendor in the post? Also, looks like they only work on grinders (a tool I do not have, yet). Thats one thing about the wire wheels, I can use it in my drills.

I have bought from him but have bought about 6 from Home Depot. $10 a pop. I used them to clean up before sandblasting. Made it go much faster. They have ones that fit in a drill as well.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

I have bought from him but have bought about 6 from Home Depot. $10 a pop. I used them to clean up before sandblasting. Made it go much faster. They have ones that fit in a drill as well.

Bingo, thats what I was hoping for. But I am afraid of getting ahead of myself by priming in sub 50* weather. So dont want to take the front end to bare metal and then not be able to prime.

But these pads look to be a good option other then wire wheeling, although I believe I can get good results with it on my particular frame.

[KMC3420]

Originally Posted by Jahloha

Bingo, thats what I was hoping for. But I am afraid of getting ahead of myself by priming in sub 50* weather. So dont want to take the front end to bare metal and then not be able to prime.

But these pads look to be a good option other then wire wheeling, although I believe I can get good results with it on my particular frame.

Yessir. They work good. The thing about a wire wheel is they take paint and rush off but they polish the metal. So you need to scuff up the metal for your paint to stick very good. Depends on what paint you use. Some paints cover much better.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by KMC3420

Yessir. They work good. The thing about a wire wheel is they take paint and rush off but they polish the metal. So you need to scuff up the metal for your paint to stick very good. Depends on what paint you use. Some paints cover much better.

Exactly. After doing that quick section, I was shocked at the polished frame afterwards. I do not feel comfortable using a rust encapsulator, I would rather start "new". I will swing by and try out this padded option.

I also assume if I use this pad, I will not have this bare metal I have from last nights work, that now needs to be primed to avoid rust. Is that correct?

[KMC3420]

The paint stripping disc will take it down to bare metal as well. I have done some spots on my frame and it has been sitting for a couple of months now and no rust. It doesn't take it down to raw metal like sandblasting does. You can see a few examples of how it will look on the link above for the vendor that sales the disc he did a door. You will want to go ahead and prime or paint what you can. The advantage of the disc is it strips faster than a wire wheel and no flying wires.

[KMC3420]

Forgot to mention that the parts that aren't rusting yet are sitting inside the shop. So if your parts are inside you have a little bit of time. But priming ASAP is best.

[808_67C10]

The discs work great for smoothing out welding on sheet metal... just have to be careful not to buld up too much heat or it will get wavy... that isnt an issue on a frame.... Hot up lowes or home depot... or even harbor freight. You can pick up a grinder super cheap... the most dangerous tool I have but, it is also the fastest and most used to cut, grind and sand!