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Aftermarket control arms
I'm hoping to get going on the drop on my '69 soon. Looking at 4.5/6 drop and I'm wondering if I should just clean and rebuild all of the factory components up front or if I should go with an aftermarket upper/lower CA setup.
Like this.....http://www.performanceonline.com/196...KIT-SET-19314/ If not this kit, who else makes a good one? Thanks. |
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Been thinking about this myself. Nothing like a lowered long bed that will corner. :)
A grand for all that in the kit is a good deal. :) Subscribed. Gary |
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I have the ride tech setup with 2 inch modular spindles and wilwood d52 calipers. My friends with gti's and Subaru's admit my truck will take there's in the corners the only problem is I have a 6 banger so I cant run that truck to it's full potential
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Looking at the Ridetech and I know it's a CO instead of a spring and shock but it's also $400 steeper in price. I want something that handles better than stock but it's also not going to be a race car.
Keep the thoughts coming, I really want to be certain before I pull the trigger. |
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Mines on air rather than coil overs and still rides great I still need the anti roll bar but I recommend there stuff since they stand behind.it all and it's all proven equipment
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I would do springs or air bags, don't really need control arms. spend the money on other stuff, i don't think you can go wrong with porterbuilt stuff. the rear trac bar is the best
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Best thing about aftermarket control arms is they help with front end alignment when you lower the truck[ ie. the cast and camber]. I have CPP uppers and lowers from POL [a vender on the board] I wish I would have gotten Porterbuilt, Nate's stuff is the best.
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Have PB on my '71 so I concur on their quality. I'll dig into their site.
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I didn't mean to give the impression I don't like the CPP arms, there great I have the PB rear trailing arms and just wished they all matched and I would have liked to have narrowed my track width.
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Gotcha, thanks.
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If it were me and I was going to do a suspension for handling without doing a complete drop member I would go this route; PB tubular forward arms for the front to center the wheel in the opening and correct the geometry along with the larger Anti-roll bar that goes with them. For the rear I'd use a stage 2 rear kit but set up for coil springs and an anti-roll bar. The real trick will be a complete set of Ride Tech single adjustable HQ series shocks. Up front the shock would go in the stock location, but in the rear they would be mounted more vertically on the PB shock crossmembers allowing them to work better. I'd also figure a way to include a rear anti-roll bar. I think this set up, while not as "cool" as the full PB drop member treatment, will handle really well and reduce the cost versus a full dropmember by maybe 50%. Just my 2¢
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Another vote for Porterbuilt.
Get their Forward Series a-arms like Buck said. Nate will add a bolt in coil spring mount for the lower a-arm that can be removed at a later date if you ever want to switch to bags or coil overs. Top of the line stuff. The only other affordable a-arm would be CPP arms purchased through a reliable vendor. But your wheels will still be in the stock location. Rearward in the fender opening. Go Porterbuilt. |
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I agree with using porterbuilt great parts.. The cpp arms I have used and had good luck with them but never have liked how the upper ball joints bolt on and have a shear point and don't sit in the arm and bolt down..
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Thanks guys, I think PB will be the plan.
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Subscribed...
I just wish there were options for lowering 3/4 tons... Joe |
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Joe |
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Sweet! Thank you! :four:
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AZperformance is a really good PB source
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