The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/index.php)

- The 1973 - 1987 Chevrolet & GMC Squarebody Pickups Message Board (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/forumdisplay.php?f=4)

- - 1975 k10 (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=621222)

Hey guys so I'm stuck hard. I am replacing my front ball joint (upper) and I can't get it out at all. I have used a pickle fork and banged on it good and nothing. So I guess I have to take off some parts or something to get it to cone loose? Heat? What do I do?

autozone rents a ball joint tool looks like a big C-clamp. they are pressed in

Hammer on the side of the casting that the joint presses into while prying lightly on the bj

My problem I am having is the but that I removed was from the top and not under. I think the idiot put them on backwards cause everything I see has the bolt under and not on top

The ball joints sit in the outer section of the knuckle and the tapered end are bolted into the inner section on the axle housing. I really can't remember the way I've done these (its been ~20 years), but I do remember this:

When installing the new taper ball joint stud, DO NOT over-tighten. I tightened up the castle nut to as tight as I could move the wrench (I was young and had no idea about fastener torque, thought everything was tighten to gorilla strength). I needed just a little more to insert the cotter pin. Used a cheater to get the extra 1/8th turn, reassembled and put the truck on the ground (this was my 83 K2500). As soon as the weight was on the front I heard a loud bang like a gunshot. Sure enough, I cracked the housing at the outer most point along the tapered seat. Had to junk the front axle that I finished rebuilding.