TBI 350 Distributor Removal/Replacement
 

Hey guys, I've read a bunch about this already but would like as much advice as possible...I am doing the head gaskets on my 95 K1500 with a TBI 350. I'm a little nervous about getting the distributor back in properly, any pointers before I remove it? Thanks in advance!

Re: TBI 350 Distributor Removal/Replacement
 

i felt marker no. 1 spark plug on the distributor cap, then another mark on the rotor & firewall to get me back into place & prevent a 180 install. gears are helical cut so start your drop in a couple degrees back from your firewall mark

Re: TBI 350 Distributor Removal/Replacement
 

turn the motor over with a ratchet to line the rotor up with the #1 cylinder. standing in front of the truck looking to the firewall it will be the first cylinder on you right side. this is the easiest way I found.

Re: TBI 350 Distributor Removal/Replacement
 

The easiest way I've found to do it, is to remove the dist cap, so I can mark the location of the dist base plate against something on the engine or firewall. Then mark the location of the rotor on the dist base plate. You just need to make sure the rotor is in the exact same location as when you took it out.

This will be close enough to make it run, but you will still want to set the base timing again when you get it back together by unplugging the timing connector and setting the timing to 0* on the harmonic balancer.

The only thing that can cause some frustration is that since the dist gears are helical cut, it will rotate as it meshes with the cam gear, so you have to compensate for that when you start to put it in. Also, you might need to adjust the oil pump shaft slot so that it lines up when it drops all the way in. You'll need a long flat head screwdriver (one that's big enough NOT to get dropped in the hole and lost) to adjust the shaft. Sometimes you can do it first try, and if I'm doing it, it can take ten or more.

Just make good marks and take your time.

Marking the rotor to the housing and housing to the firewall is the way I always did
 

This with #1 at TDC But here's the deal. When you get the heads off, your gonna want to clean the pistons off also. So you will more likely move each of the pistons to the top and clean each one. While your there, try to rock each piston side to side in the bore. Also be sure to drop each one down and inspect the cylinder walls real well.

You just have to put the mark back on the balancer when you replace the #1 at TDC. after cleaning.

Re: TBI 350 Distributor Removal/Replacement
 

That little part about the oil pump unloading when you remove the dizzy is key when you go to re-install. Your dizzy will not fit on your marks at all and your timing will be wrong if the pump moved and you don't move it back.

It really is a lot less complicated than it seems. Just make sure you make good marks on the distributor. It is critically important. After that it either will go back on the mark or not. If not move the oil pump. By the time you finish you'll be able to make your entire firing order up without having to look at the book or online for help either.

If you're pulling the intake make sure that you don't forget to put RTV across the front lip of the intake where it meets the engine block the gasket doesn't cover that part and it requires RTV. Also make sure you know what coolant to use with the intake gasket you buy if you're changing it. Make sure you know the torque pattern/spec too(i wrote it on my coolant tank on a pc of tape so as to not muff the torque settings looking back and forth between the book). If you do get any vacuum leaks on the intake manifold gasket you'll get that TBI stumble these things love to do and eventually it'll drive to do it again. When you change the intake you'll also have to change the Throttle body base gasket if you pulled the TB.

On the bright side after you do all this once it goes way quicker next time. I can have the top of my engine in a pile on the ground in just a few minutes.