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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Galveston, Tx
Posts: 114
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TBI 350 Distributor Removal/Replacement
Hey guys, I've read a bunch about this already but would like as much advice as possible...I am doing the head gaskets on my 95 K1500 with a TBI 350. I'm a little nervous about getting the distributor back in properly, any pointers before I remove it? Thanks in advance!
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: back 40, bc
Posts: 3,938
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Re: TBI 350 Distributor Removal/Replacement
i felt marker no. 1 spark plug on the distributor cap, then another mark on the rotor & firewall to get me back into place & prevent a 180 install. gears are helical cut so start your drop in a couple degrees back from your firewall mark
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: pittston,PA
Posts: 1,184
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Re: TBI 350 Distributor Removal/Replacement
turn the motor over with a ratchet to line the rotor up with the #1 cylinder. standing in front of the truck looking to the firewall it will be the first cylinder on you right side. this is the easiest way I found.
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There is nothing you can't fix with a BFH or a FIRE WRENCH. 1997 chevy k1500 ext cab z71 (daily driver) sold 1996 chevy k1500 reg cab 4x4(daily driver)totaled 2008jeep patriot (wife's daily driver 2008 chevy 1500 ext cab 4x4 sold 2011 chevy 1500 crew cab ltz (daily driver) 1996 chevy 1500 reg cab 4x4 project sold 2006 pontiac grand prix gxp (daily work commuter) |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Posts: 288
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Re: TBI 350 Distributor Removal/Replacement
The easiest way I've found to do it, is to remove the dist cap, so I can mark the location of the dist base plate against something on the engine or firewall. Then mark the location of the rotor on the dist base plate. You just need to make sure the rotor is in the exact same location as when you took it out.
This will be close enough to make it run, but you will still want to set the base timing again when you get it back together by unplugging the timing connector and setting the timing to 0* on the harmonic balancer. The only thing that can cause some frustration is that since the dist gears are helical cut, it will rotate as it meshes with the cam gear, so you have to compensate for that when you start to put it in. Also, you might need to adjust the oil pump shaft slot so that it lines up when it drops all the way in. You'll need a long flat head screwdriver (one that's big enough NOT to get dropped in the hole and lost) to adjust the shaft. Sometimes you can do it first try, and if I'm doing it, it can take ten or more. Just make good marks and take your time.
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-- '67 Chevy Stepside 250 Inline 6 Megasquirt Fuel Injection T5 5 speed conversion Ferric Oxide impregnation throughout |
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#5 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Smithfield, VA
Posts: 1,501
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Marking the rotor to the housing and housing to the firewall is the way I always did
Quote:
You just have to put the mark back on the balancer when you replace the #1 at TDC. after cleaning. |
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Redwood City
Posts: 242
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Re: TBI 350 Distributor Removal/Replacement
That little part about the oil pump unloading when you remove the dizzy is key when you go to re-install. Your dizzy will not fit on your marks at all and your timing will be wrong if the pump moved and you don't move it back.
It really is a lot less complicated than it seems. Just make sure you make good marks on the distributor. It is critically important. After that it either will go back on the mark or not. If not move the oil pump. By the time you finish you'll be able to make your entire firing order up without having to look at the book or online for help either. If you're pulling the intake make sure that you don't forget to put RTV across the front lip of the intake where it meets the engine block the gasket doesn't cover that part and it requires RTV. Also make sure you know what coolant to use with the intake gasket you buy if you're changing it. Make sure you know the torque pattern/spec too(i wrote it on my coolant tank on a pc of tape so as to not muff the torque settings looking back and forth between the book). If you do get any vacuum leaks on the intake manifold gasket you'll get that TBI stumble these things love to do and eventually it'll drive to do it again. When you change the intake you'll also have to change the Throttle body base gasket if you pulled the TB. On the bright side after you do all this once it goes way quicker next time. I can have the top of my engine in a pile on the ground in just a few minutes.
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1991 R3500 3+3 C+C 6.2/4l80e/14ff Fleetside Dually 1992 K2500 ECLB 5.7/4l80e/14sf(g80) 8600gvwr 1991 CR500 (95 Burb wouldn't stop catching fire )
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