HELP with power brake set up
 

Well, I got it all on and bench bled the Master Cylinder. It is an original 67-72 booster and master cylinder. I didn't have time to bleed the wheel cylinders....with out the truck running the pedal is pretty easy to put down all the way. Is that supposed to happen since i haven't bled the wheel cylinders????
Also the pedal rod does not allow the pedal to rest on the rubber stopper when the brakes are not applied, is that supposed to happen????? and I need to adjust the stop lamp switch but one of the nuts is really tight and I cant move it....any suggestions???? I also noticed that my engine does not idle as rough as it did with the other booster that I had rigged....could a vacuum leak cause rough idleing????? THANKS GUYS!!!!

18 VIEWS NO REPLY???COME ON GUYS...i HAVE TO GO TO WORK TOMMOROW AFTERNOON AND I NEED HELP STAT!!!!!
THANKS IN ADVANCE

Yes, the brake pedal will go to the floor if you haven't bled the wheel cylinders. Yes, a vacuum leak will cause a rough idle.

THANKS NEON LARRY!!!!!!NOW HOW ABOUT THE PEDAL SITTING FARTHER DOWN WHEN NOT APPLIED??? iT DOESN'T HIT THE RUBBER STOPPER, IT'S GOT A GOOD 1 1/2 INCHES OF SPACE BETWEEN THE PEDAL AND STOPPER???? DID I GET THE WRONG BRAKE ROD????WAS THE 67-68 BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY DIFFERENT THAN OTHER YEARS??? THE BOOSTER CAME OFF A 69 i THINK....WILL THIS CAUSE ANY BRAKEING PROBLEMS????? WOULD THIS CAUSE THE BRAKES TO NOT APPLY CORRECTLY IN AN EMERGENCY OR SUCH??? sORRY ABOUT ALL THE QUESTIONS....
-ROGER

For the brake light switch, all I know to tell you is it's a Biatch! There is adjustment in the rod between the pedal and the booster. You may also have to adjust the rod between the booster and M/C. I had to do it by trial and error. Good luck!