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Cab Insulation plan
I have ordered some Al's Liner Heat and Noise, and some POR-15 to coat the floor and the underside of the new cab. What else should I get in order to insulate and deaden the sound? I will order jute and carpet later on, I am just working on rust prevention and wiring right now.
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Re: Cab Insulation plan
I had the Same question. I think I'm gonna us dynomat in mine b/c my mufflers come out right behind the cab and it's a bit noisy.
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Re: Cab Insulation plan
My local audio shop used dynomat on the whole floor and back wall. My exhaust dumps under the cab and I have no issues at all. I'd personally skip the POR 15 inside unless you have a rust issue.
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Re: Cab Insulation plan
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Re: Cab Insulation plan
The dyno mat type products do very little to dampen stuff like engine/road/exhaust noise. They do a good job of taking rattles and metal creaking out.
In addition to dynomat style products, you need a closed cell foam type product along with a product like luxury liner on top of that. It can get expensive. |
Re: Cab Insulation plan
If you don't want to click on the link then here is what you need, in this order:
1. Sound deadener tiles. Not to line the entire cab with, but strategically place throughout to reduce vibrations. 2. Closed cell foam. Acts as a decoupler, no sound deadening qualities. 3. Mass loaded vinyl. This will reduce noise. 4. Carpet. Jute padding not needed, but will not hurt either. There are other products you can use, but a lot of people overkill with the sound deadener. It reduces vibrations but does not make your truck soundproof so to speak. |
Re: Cab Insulation plan
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Sound deadener for rattles/vibrations (Boom Mat/Dynomat/etc). Foam layer for isolation. MLV as a barrier that keeps the sounds out. Carpet w/the jute pad removed where necessary for installation. This is what I did for my dually. It has a big block, 1 3/4" full length headers, & 3" exhaust through the mufflers under the cab. When you're sitting inside, it's very quiet. The MLV I got has the vinyl/foam bonded together for an easier install. It was a PITA getting things bolted down (seats, seat belts, etc) but worth it IMO. |
Re: Cab Insulation plan
Mine is Chassis Saver/Dynamat/Closed Cell foam/ Rubber floor mat. It's only half done, so I can't speeak to it's effectiveness yet.
I did the floor up to the seam, back up to the rear window. I did the headliner, and inside the doors also. |
Re: Cab Insulation plan
I have some surface rust in the cab that doesn't warrant replacement but I want to stop the rust. I should have clarified that first.
Is the peel and stick stuff like fatmat/dynomat used only for "spot" treatment to lessen vibration? Do I cover the whole floor with closed cell foam? |
Re: Cab Insulation plan
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Yes on the closed cell foam. I even added it where my speakers were & behind the door panels. |
Re: Cab Insulation plan
Correct, however I went with 100% coverage just because I wanted additional heat insulation.
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Re: Cab Insulation plan
Following...
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Thanks guys, I should start on it again next weekend. Most of my weekends are spent hunting and that is winding down so now I have time again.
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Re: Cab Insulation plan
I am doing a cab for my 77 GMC plow truck right now. I am going to use an epoxy primer, then spray Lizard skin, both the sound deadner and the heat insulation. I used the Lizard Skin in my 63 Nova when I redid it and it made a world of difference heat and noise wise. I am not going to use any carpet or floor mats in the truck to try to keep the floor from getting wet and holding all the wet under a floor mat and rotting.
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Re: Cab Insulation plan
I plan to dynamat the floors in the future along with oem carpet insulation and padding. When I redid the headlined I did add styrofoam insulation sheets between it and the roof. That helped a lot with road noise, rain noise and cab temps.
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