S-10 IFS bagged question
 

OK, I have a Scott Danforth Cross Member going in a 1949 Chevy 3600. His cross member accepts S-10 and Metric donor parts.

The truck will be on bags.

Last night I mocked up the S-10 donor parts.

https://kustomcreations.smugmug.com/...113_194540.jpg

https://kustomcreations.smugmug.com/..._200038-XL.jpg

According to some rough measurements with a 27" tall tire, and stock spindles my running boards will be about 4" off the ground.

I am loosing some travel due to the upper ball joint binding up.

So the question is:

• Pie cut stock UCA?
• Buy Pro Forged Super Travel Upper Ball Joints
• Buy Tubular Upper Control Arms

I plan on dehumping the Lower Control Arm to accept my bags.

Re: S-10 IFS bagged question
 

Anybody???

Re: S-10 IFS bagged question
 

Have you seen these http://michiganmetalworks.com/store/...&product_id=76

Re: S-10 IFS bagged question
 

if you have the fab skills, i'm a fan of the pie cut factory parts. i like the look of factory parts in an obviously custom build vs custom parts in a factory car, plus it's like 1000x cheaper for the exact same function.

Re: S-10 IFS bagged question
 

Those are cool....but definitely not in the budget!!

Re: S-10 IFS bagged question
 

The Pro Forged Super Travel Ball Joints are supposed to have enough travel to take care of the problem, and are relatively cheap. $69.00 for the pair.

I think I am going to give them a shot......

Re: S-10 IFS bagged question
 

Love those

I hadn't found those yet ... are they simply angled joints, or do they have more angular travel?

Re: S-10 IFS bagged question
 

Re: S-10 IFS bagged question
 

gotcha, angled mounting flange ... same angular travel as stock.

just to make sure i have this clear in my head, you would still get the same total wheel travel with these, but that travel would be over a different range. the truck would sit lower at max, but not as high at max. if you need new ball joints, it's a pretty good option but the cut-n-weld is still virtually free and tune-able.

when i cut mine, i trimmed the end of the x-member and ditched the lower bumps first. this let me use the physical stop of the lower arm hitting the x-member as my lower limit. then when i cut the uppers, they were bent to exactly match this lower limit giving me the maximum possible extension before that joint topped out again. i actually cut them, bolted them back into the suspension, sat on the x-member to hit the lower limit of the lower arms, bent the upper arm in place til it stopped, and tacked it back together.

my way was a lot more work ...