dog dish on rallies
 

Thought I would share how I run dog dish caps on rally rims. I know some might frown on drilling a hole in the middle of oem caps but these were pretty rough when I found them. Had them media blasted and painted dents and all. I then hand painted the black and blue which came out not bad from a distance. I found the center on the back side by xing the bowtie then drilled 1/8 hole. I used old rear axle rallie caps I had around and ripped off the 4x4 tin emblem exposing the hole in the center. I JB welded a small nut to a washer and then JB welded that to the back side of the cap. I was careful to get everything centered. I then used RV silicone to fasten 2 stacked mason jar lid gaskets on the face to take up any wobble. Once everything was dry I mounted cap on the way u normally would then i put more silicone on the out side of my gasket . I then used the smallest Robertson head nut I could find and screwed my dog dish to my center cap swishing the silicone. They are very secure with no wobble. I've had them on for two summers now with no problems. When I remove for what ever reason I just take out center screw and peel them off. Reapply silicone and touch up srew head with a dab of blue paint

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More pictures

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Looks good.

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I have the same truck as you same paint with Chrome 3/4 caps i like running the same cap on my 1965 3/4 ton

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Thanks. Had been wanting to try for a while but didn't want to wreck the only set I had . I have another set waiting for some factory 15x8 steelies someday lol.

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This is brilliant; I wouldn't have thought to try this. Maybe your method will help alleviate the seeming rarity and some of the expense of obtaining the original six lug factory steelies (at least my 1970 C10 2WD) for people like me who will never run anything but a steel wheel and factory hubcap.

Great idea using the mason jar lid gaskets - those are certainly readily obtainable from any grocery store.

Regarding the paint - I remember forum member Kingstrider had a great method of filling emblems with paint using a syringe; maybe that would also work on your Robertson screw to just fill up the whole recess; though of course would have to redo each time you remove the hub cap.

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If the cap is not perfectly centered and balanced, it will move around seeing as how it is only secured in that one location. This movement may eventually fatigue the plastic that the nut is secured to and send you cap flying off.

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Nice job on the wheels. Sure can't beat a rallie wheel. Here is what I did with mine. 49/50 hub caps as center caps.

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Nice trucks. 65 definitely on my bucket list. Funny your box is the color my truck is supposed to be and your cab and front clip is the color my truck is.

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8000 miles and no signs of fatigue but your right.Do not try this at home.

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Thanks for for the compliment. I remember that thread from Kingstrider and am definitely going to try that . It would be really helpful in the corners for sure. I think the gaskets is key to this istallation.

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I see you like your trucks and nova's I to have a 1971 nova Mine came with bucket seats and AC and power steering.

I have it mocked up to be the close of the 1971-72 only years to have the 427.I found a Factory AC box for a big block out of a 1969 Nova Band new ever thing 350.00 back in 2006.Found out that the 4 door 1971-72 nova's had the same spring package as the Big block SS nova's had the same big sway Bar as well bought a crashed 1972 nova with 350 AC fully loaded for 350 back in 2007.

So now i am working with this for right now

sorry to steel your post I will make up on talking more on your wheels ok

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That looks darn good!

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We have to start some where and a work horse like a old truck is a good start

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Yeah old trucks and old cars (nova) could be a sickness. Good to see I'm not the only one. Sorry about the side ways.

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Nice hub cap mod, and cool Novas!

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So you posted how to do this yesterday and have driven 8000 miles? Or you've been holding out on us waiting to spring the pics on us when we were least expecting it..? ;) Truck looks so clean, it's hard to imagine it having 8000 miles in the last 10 years. Nice truck, and the wheels look nice. Was there a specific reason you didn't just use stock steelies? Width preference? 8000 miles or not, I do have to say I'd have been concerned that a single small bolt into a JB Welded nut as the only retention device on something spinning at that rpm. But, if it holds, it holds.

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lol yes I was holding out on this but only because I didn't think It would work as well as it has and I wanted to start hoarding 15x8 ralleys before there was a big upswing in demand for them lol. Put over 3000 miles on in summer of 14 plus 5000 in 15 actually drove around the block to get the odometer to flip the last few miles just because. Thanks for the clean truck comment but it definitely looks better in pictures than in person. I stopped by a hose supply store last week and picked up some Buna gaskets 1.50 a piece. You and cleszkie bring up a good point about stress on the center cap so I think this will help distribute the stress to the stronger part of the cap plus stacking mason jar gaskets is a pain. The reason I didn't use stock steelies is I can't find any good used ones around here yet but I am going to get a set from wheel vintiques when I stop buying other things.

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Very creative-looks nice.

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Thanks

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Looking at their website today it looks to me as if the Wheel Vintiques steelies mentioned lack the nubs to hold the OEM type dog dish hubcaps.

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The smoothies don't have nubs, but the other stock style rims do. I have a set of their 16x10 8-lug rims, and my stock caps snap right on.

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That looks wicked good. I love it!

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Necessity (or cool factor) is the mother of invention - nice job!

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Thanks. It took a couple cold ones if I recall to get over drilling a hole in the middle of a cap I spent probably way too much time painting