U-Joints
 

Looking over the selection of u-joints offered for my truck (87 V10) is dizzying. Moog alone offers 11 different part numbers. That just doesn't seem right....there aren't 11 different u-joints on the truck! Some are listed as "premium" and some "super strength". Is there really any difference between the two? Also, why would GM not use the same u-joint at all points where one was necessary? It just seems like a waste of money to have to order or manufacture different joints for different points on the same truck.

Re: U-Joints
 

Many times the differences are low vs high quality steels or manufacturing tolerances, or simply greaseable vs non-greaseable.

Re: U-Joints
 

^^ that. Plus different end cup diameters depending on application. 1-1/16' vs 1-3/16" for instance.

Re: U-Joints
 

FWIW: When we replaced the original U-Joints on my 77 Shortbed Sport it was a nightmare:waah: ordering them from Chevrolet. Their parts book had 3 solid pages of different U-Joints for their pickups. Due to the variety of different options and GVW of the trucks is why there is so many different types. Also some trucks have the center bearing(mine has this)and different rear ends which require more U-Joints which complicates the ordering. Take it from me:

"ORDERING/FINDING U-JOINTS FOR PICKUPS IS 10 TIMES AS CHALLENGING THEN ORDERING THEM FOR CARS"! Larry:chevy:

Re: U-Joints
 

Go to a shop/parts place like here in Fairbanks Alaska there is Young's Gear and Drive line. They fix vehicales in the shop and sell parts. Tell them what you've got and they hand you the part,the right part.
Think my last one was a Spicer for about 25 bucks.
In other words go to a speciality shop.

Re: U-Joints
 

I have used a local driveshaft shop twice in the last few years. Straighten, balance, and 2 new USA-made u-joints for $100 parts & labor.

If your truck has the original u-joints, I hope they weren't secured with melted plastic instead a metal retainers, because it's a PITA to get the caps off.

Here's some good info on u-joint sizes. Seems like my 82 C10 used 1310 or 1330. As I recall, high performance and maybe 3/4 ton truck applications use 1350.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/13.../photo-02.html

http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/...D%20Guide.html

Re: U-Joints
 

The injected plastic is actually quite easy to deal with when some heat is applied. Have done more than I care to remember.

Re: U-Joints
 

If it's a half ton truck, most likely it will be either a GM 3RL or a 1310.

I would go with Spicer joints. Most common and reliable.