U-Joints - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Chrispbrown36 · 08-18-2016, 05:45 PM

Looking over the selection of u-joints offered for my truck (87 V10) is dizzying. Moog alone offers 11 different part numbers. That just doesn't seem right....there aren't 11 different u-joints on the truck! Some are listed as "premium" and some "super strength". Is there really any difference between the two? Also, why would GM not use the same u-joint at all points where one was necessary? It just seems like a waste of money to have to order or manufacture different joints for different points on the same truck.

Nick_R_23 · 08-18-2016, 05:54 PM

Many times the differences are low vs high quality steels or manufacturing tolerances, or simply greaseable vs non-greaseable.

GRX · 08-19-2016, 07:30 AM

^^ that. Plus different end cup diameters depending on application. 1-1/16' vs 1-3/16" for instance.

77 ChevySport · 08-19-2016, 07:36 AM

FWIW: When we replaced the original U-Joints on my 77 Shortbed Sport it was a nightmare

ordering them from Chevrolet. Their parts book had 3 solid pages of different U-Joints for their pickups. Due to the variety of different options and GVW of the trucks is why there is so many different types. Also some trucks have the center bearing(mine has this)and different rear ends which require more U-Joints which complicates the ordering. Take it from me:

"ORDERING/FINDING U-JOINTS FOR PICKUPS IS 10 TIMES AS CHALLENGING THEN ORDERING THEM FOR CARS"! Larry

akart · 08-19-2016, 04:49 PM

Go to a shop/parts place like here in Fairbanks Alaska there is Young's Gear and Drive line. They fix vehicales in the shop and sell parts. Tell them what you've got and they hand you the part,the right part.
Think my last one was a Spicer for about 25 bucks.
In other words go to a speciality shop.

**MikeB** · 08-21-2016, 09:53 PM

I have used a local driveshaft shop twice in the last few years. Straighten, balance, and 2 new USA-made u-joints for $100 parts & labor.

If your truck has the original u-joints, I hope they weren't secured with melted plastic instead a metal retainers, because it's a PITA to get the caps off.

Here's some good info on u-joint sizes. Seems like my 82 C10 used 1310 or 1330. As I recall, high performance and maybe 3/4 ton truck applications use 1350.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/13.../photo-02.html

http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/...D%20Guide.html

GRX · 08-21-2016, 10:52 PM

The injected plastic is actually quite easy to deal with when some heat is applied. Have done more than I care to remember.

Ski-me · 08-22-2016, 03:03 PM

If it's a half ton truck, most likely it will be either a GM 3RL or a 1310.

I would go with Spicer joints. Most common and reliable.

08-18-2016, 05:45 PM	#1
Chrispbrown36 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Cunningham, KY Posts: 351	U-Joints Looking over the selection of u-joints offered for my truck (87 V10) is dizzying. Moog alone offers 11 different part numbers. That just doesn't seem right....there aren't 11 different u-joints on the truck! Some are listed as "premium" and some "super strength". Is there really any difference between the two? Also, why would GM not use the same u-joint at all points where one was necessary? It just seems like a waste of money to have to order or manufacture different joints for different points on the same truck.

08-18-2016, 05:54 PM	#2
Nick_R_23 Registered User Join Date: May 2016 Location: Willow, Alaska Posts: 881	Re: U-Joints Many times the differences are low vs high quality steels or manufacturing tolerances, or simply greaseable vs non-greaseable.

08-19-2016, 07:30 AM	#3
GRX Registered User Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: MD Posts: 1,937	Re: U-Joints ^^ that. Plus different end cup diameters depending on application. 1-1/16' vs 1-3/16" for instance. __________________ 1969 c-10 Step Side Long Bed. I-6 250cid = = 1969 Pontiac GTO hard top. 400, 4-speed.

08-19-2016, 07:36 AM	#4
77 ChevySport Registered User Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Central, IL Posts: 201	Re: U-Joints FWIW: When we replaced the original U-Joints on my 77 Shortbed Sport it was a nightmare ordering them from Chevrolet. Their parts book had 3 solid pages of different U-Joints for their pickups. Due to the variety of different options and GVW of the trucks is why there is so many different types. Also some trucks have the center bearing(mine has this)and different rear ends which require more U-Joints which complicates the ordering. Take it from me: "ORDERING/FINDING U-JOINTS FOR PICKUPS IS 10 TIMES AS CHALLENGING THEN ORDERING THEM FOR CARS"! Larry

08-19-2016, 04:49 PM	#5
akart Registered User Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Manley Hot Springs Alaska Posts: 253	Re: U-Joints Go to a shop/parts place like here in Fairbanks Alaska there is Young's Gear and Drive line. They fix vehicales in the shop and sell parts. Tell them what you've got and they hand you the part,the right part. Think my last one was a Spicer for about 25 bucks. In other words go to a speciality shop.

08-21-2016, 09:53 PM	#6
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,599	Re: U-Joints I have used a local driveshaft shop twice in the last few years. Straighten, balance, and 2 new USA-made u-joints for $100 parts & labor. If your truck has the original u-joints, I hope they weren't secured with melted plastic instead a metal retainers, because it's a PITA to get the caps off. Here's some good info on u-joint sizes. Seems like my 82 C10 used 1310 or 1330. As I recall, high performance and maybe 3/4 ton truck applications use 1350. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/13.../photo-02.html http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/...D%20Guide.html __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! Last edited by MikeB; 08-21-2016 at 10:07 PM.

08-21-2016, 10:52 PM	#7
GRX Registered User Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: MD Posts: 1,937	Re: U-Joints The injected plastic is actually quite easy to deal with when some heat is applied. Have done more than I care to remember.

08-22-2016, 03:03 PM	#8
Ski-me Registered User Join Date: May 2012 Location: Colo Springs, CO Posts: 870	Re: U-Joints If it's a half ton truck, most likely it will be either a GM 3RL or a 1310. I would go with Spicer joints. Most common and reliable. __________________ - Jeff 89' K5 Blazer, 2.5" lift, 35" tires 04' GMC Yukon XL, 3/4 ton, 8.1L



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