Courtesy lights install question.
 

I'm about to install my under dash courtesy lights.
My question is this
What is the best way to drill the holes to route the wiring for the door jamb switches?
From what I can tell I have to go through the door jamb, the inner cab panel and then the kick panel, up under the dash.
Is there a way to get around the panel that's in between?
I might take a trip out to my favorite salvage yard to look at one of the bare cabs.

Re: Courtesy lights install question.
 

If I understand your question, you're looking for the original route for the door jam switch? If so, there's a square shaped accretion in the door jam, maybe 3" below the top hinge. These are approximate measures, eye-only. If you need more info. I can do that.

There's a hole in the center of that square. It's threaded for the original door jamb switch (likely stripped if original Ha!).

There's a hole in the kick panel, which is 1" below and 1/2" to the rear of the dash panel's rear bottom corner.

Re: Courtesy lights install question.
 

My truck is a 70, and didn't come with the lights.
Are you saying the raised part of the door jamb is threaded behind the sheet metal?
I understand the rest of what you said, thanks

Re: Courtesy lights install question.
 

This thread may have the answers you seek.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=602520

Re: Courtesy lights install question.
 

Great info, but...

Does this mean that all truck have wiring, just not the holes and the switches? Is it that simple to install?

Re: Courtesy lights install question.
 

The wiring harness is not in all trucks and the hole is not threaded. The door pin switch just threads into the sheet metal after you drill the hole. Do a practice hole in some scrap to get the hole size close so the switch will thread into the sheet metal.

Re: Courtesy lights install question.
 

I see. Not threaded, tapped by the switch itself. Yeah, not much to thread, I misspoke.

Nice suggestion too. Mine are stripped. I guess the real fix is to weld and re-drill.

Re: Courtesy lights install question.
 

I know this is not exactly what you asked about your under dash light install but you will get to this part after your switches are installed. The attached thread show the under dash harness board member Roger Koop made up. I bought one form him and have installed it on my truck with LED Bulbs. The attached pics show how I installed it using existing hole along the bottom of the dash which all our trucks have.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=618187

Re: Courtesy lights install question.
 

Just curious what bulbs you used in your new kit lights? Also where your wire goes thru to your door switches you have rubber seals to protect the wire where it goes thru the metal... do you remember where you got them?..
Thanks
Keith

Re: Courtesy lights install question.
 

The door switches were installed at the factory so the rubber grommet must have been factory installed too. Go to post #9 in link below for bulb info. With Roger Koops harness and because I have the factory door switches it was plug and play to hookup the lights.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=714329

Re: Courtesy lights install question.
 

You can get the rubber grommets at any parts store. Not sure on the bulb, they came with the harness. I got my harness out of a mid 80s truck, a long time ago, but it would be real easy to create. When you go out to your favorite yard, look in any "square bodies", and look for the door switches. Then just remove the whole harness. The switches disconnect from the wire, so they're quite easy to get out

Re: Courtesy lights install question.
 

If you're not using shoulder straps and want to light that cab up a tad more, this was easy & cheap. Couple of led's from NAPA filled in the holes nicely. I tied them into the stock dome light wire. I do like the under dash lights also.

Re: Courtesy lights install question.
 

You can try tweaking the hole a bit then reinstall and leave it alone...

Re: Courtesy lights install question.
 

You lost me a bit on tweaking the hole, I'm not sure how to do that. A piece of wire inserted along the threads would probably lock it into place. Perhaps there's a conductive tape wrap if one exists? These must be grounded to the body I'm guessing. Maybe surface ground (i.e. face of the door jam) is enough. This cab is coming off anyway....Might be just as well weld and drill.

Incidentally, some drill and use a tap. Apparently that's not necessary, though may be cleaner.............can't really say.