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Hello

I'm Martin and I'm working on a 64 c10

I'm am working on airride and now I'm having a problem
I've got a 350sbc with hooker competition headers and they are two far under the frame
Now I have seen a set of 88-95 truck headers that are shorter
But before I buy then does anyone know if they will clear the frame
Rest of the exhaust will be build new

Thanks

Do you have a better pic of your motor.
Zoom out a bit so we can see the complete drivers side with the header.

Im building a fully bagged 66 with a sbc..Ive heard and will be trying Hooker 2466HKR headers..They are more of a clipster style and what PBFAB recommends to some...fyi...

ChadW, I too have read the Hooker 2466HKR's work well for our trucks, so I put a set on my '66. Just wanted to share my experience with you.

They did not clear the motor mount stand on the driver side, so I had to notch the top of the stand out and re-shape it with some scrap steel. If it makes any difference, whoever put the engine in my truck used the rear bolt holes for the stands.

They also won't clear the factory column shift linkage. I used the Lokar style kit from CPP, if I recall correctly. The passenger side collector interfered with the seam/pinch weld/whatever its called at the firewall toeboard as well, which I was able to trim off with a sawzall.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rust-O-Matic (Post 8573348)

All good to know...is your truck a manual or auto? Mine will be auto (700r4) with a lokar floor shifter. I should be good with the motor mounts as mine are custom and a quick test fit shows they will clear fine...I will however need to do something with that pinch weld on the passenger side as it looks to interfere on mine as well...all in all, not too bad for the price of the headers..

Sounds like you may not have much to worry about then.

I like the headers overall. They seem like decent quality, aside from the crappy paint that comes on them, and they don't hang down in the way like full length versions.

The transmission in mine is a TH400. Tuff with two F's, but leaks like a sieve.

I have heard Dougs headers tri-y are supposed to be the ones to get for lowered trucks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rust-O-Matic (Post 8573348)

Same issues here on my 66 with these headers. I bought the ceramic coated ones. I clearanced the seam on the passengers side with a grinder and a BFH, intentionally dented the header tube on the drivers side (hopefully enough) to clear the motor mount, and i used one ceramic spark boot on the drivers side where the plug wires were sitting on the header tube. I'm running linkage today (column to 700r4) and should crank it over for the first time this weekend.

The rear header bolts on both sides are a real pain. I bought 12pt, 5/16 head ARPs which made it easier. Pulling the valve covers helps get those last ones tight.

Quote:

The rear header bolts on both sides are a real pain. I bought 12pt, 5/16 head ARPs which made it easier. Pulling the valve covers helps get those last ones tight.

I ended up using a 7/16" crow's foot socket to get to the rear bolts on mine. It works pretty well.

I'm kinda glad I'm not the only one that ran into these issues. Misery loves company lol.

1970 Chevelle headers tuck up real nice and clear everything.