how did you run wires for power door locks?
 

When you run wires for power door locks, I know you should drill a hole in the door jam and drill one in the door, then run a rubber connector to run the wires through. My question is how do you get the wire down into the jam? Do you go in through the vent cavity behind the kick pannel?

Thanks

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'69 CST Short fleetside
Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 3" dual exhaust, 40 series Flowmasters, 4 wheel disc brakes, all stainless hard and flex lines, front & rear sway bars, Dana 9 1/4" rear end 4.11's w/Detroit Locker, soon to have 18" rims
Not my daily driver. More like my weekend A$$ KICKER.
See my truck at: http://www.geocities.com/low69cst/
Future Automotive Engineer attending the University of Kentucky.
Feel free to message me on AOL, SN- SS95ZQ8
My Dad's projects:
72 Short Fleet 4x4 Chyenne Super
72 Long Fleet 4x4 Chyenne Super
Both 350 autos restored original

Ya I think that's the way to go.If I ever to decide on power windows or locks I'll go with one of these.Good luck.
http://www.martelbros.com/store/Html...ages/40023.jpg
http://www.martelbros.com/store/Html...ages/40024.jpg
http://www.martelbros.com/store/Html...ages/40025.jpg

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"71"blazer,rust free(bought in Arizona),350SBC
(375HP),700R4,factory G.M. TPI.Living in Santa Barbara,California.Ongoing project.

Where can I find those pin conectors, they look like they would be perfect for what I want to do to my truck.

painless wireing has them,here's the link. http://www.painlesswiring.com/connectr.htm


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"71"blazer,rust free(bought in Arizona),350SBC
(375HP),700R4,factory G.M. TPI.Living in Santa Barbara,California.Ongoing project.

This may be a stupid question, but what good would those do with power locks? The only time you could lock the doors would be when the door is closed. When I park my car, I open the door, push the door lock switch, and then get out and close the door. You couldn't do that with those connectors. Am I missing something here?

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Current project: The "HACKstoration" 1967 GMC shortbed/fleetside, 350/700R4, air bag suspension, 18" billet wheels. Other vehicle of interest: 1957 Chevy Bel-Air 4dr hard top, 283/powerglide, lowered 3-1/2" in front and 2 inches in the rear.

Web Site: jaySpot.com AOL Screen Name: Slammed67GMC Location: Kansas City, MO

You could pull the fenders off..........

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http://hometown.aol.com/racedvl/racedvl69index.html

Woodstock,IL.northwest of Chicago

It's not what you buy, it's what you build!!

I did not climb to the top of the food chain, to become a vegetarian.

For some pics of my truck.

Unless there is an aftermarket door lock mechanism that I'm not familiar with, the power locks aren't going to do you much good unless you use a remote lock. The doors are designed to lock from the outside with the key, right?? I know if I lock mine and close the door, they unlock themselves, have to be locked with the key.

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'72 Chevy 1/2T 4x4 shortbox stepside 350/350auto on '84
ralleys and 31/10.5s

67 Cutlass convertible
330, 3spd stick

90 GMC Jimmy
350/auto
Chad Stephens
Orleans,NE

Well, O'lBuick, just how long have you owned GM cars, anyway?
The problem with those seemingly nifty 'button' contacts is getting them to mate up evenly, and not stick out and be a big eyesore. I used them years ago, and spent almost 2 extra days on fabricating little boxes to attach to the pillars and doors to make a half-way presentable appearance. Look at the large rubber accordian style boots used on newer cars at the junk yards. Also, using finer stranded wire for more flexability is a big help, as I have locks, windows, speakers and mirror wires from door to pillar. 'Softer' wire and boots is the only way to go.

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Everett, Washington
57 3/4 rat, 235, 3spd
66 C-10 Panel, SWB. 350 from '68, 200R4 tranny, 3.55 rear ratio, restoring
68 C10 LWB 250 from '66 4spd, dump runner
82 Camaro, 305, THM-200-R4
84 Monte Carlo 305 TH350, land tuna
85 Tercel SW, snow runner

After a weekend of examinning my cab, I got looking at the door jam area. I don't think the contacts would work that good because the cab jam and the door jams don't look like they mate that well. I think I could drill a hole and run the wire into the vent cavity, then drill another hole out the outside of the cab, where the vent cavity protrudes from the door piller, then use one of those rubber tube thiings to extend from that to the door jam. Where is the best place to get the door lock kit at? LMC has a universal kit, but I don't know about their quality.

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'69 CST Short fleetside
Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 3" dual exhaust, 40 series Flowmasters, 4 wheel disc brakes, all stainless hard and flex lines, front & rear sway bars, Dana 9 1/4" rear end 4.11's w/Detroit Locker, soon to have 18" rims
Not my daily driver. More like my weekend A$$ KICKER.
See my truck at: http://www.geocities.com/low69cst/
Future Automotive Engineer attending the University of Kentucky.
Feel free to message me on AOL, SN- SS95ZQ8
My Dad's projects:
72 Short Fleet 4x4 Chyenne Super
72 Long Fleet 4x4 Chyenne Super
Both 350 autos restored original

this is a question I've long pondered myself. The wall looks so thin that itwould be very difficult to drill and run wires through. Those contact things work well, I saw a show on TV put them in a belair, but what happens when you need to roll down yer window and your doors open? heh, a weird situation but its happened to me before.


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Projects
Belair '71 C10 LWB to SWB conversion:C10 project page
65Chevelle pics coming soon