how did you run wires for power door locks? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Low69CST · 03-30-2002, 01:15 AM

When you run wires for power door locks, I know you should drill a hole in the door jam and drill one in the door, then run a rubber connector to run the wires through. My question is how do you get the wire down into the jam? Do you go in through the vent cavity behind the kick pannel?

Thanks

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'69 CST Short fleetside
Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 3" dual exhaust, 40 series Flowmasters, 4 wheel disc brakes, all stainless hard and flex lines, front & rear sway bars, Dana 9 1/4" rear end 4.11's w/Detroit Locker, soon to have 18" rims
Not my daily driver. More like my weekend A$$ KICKER.
See my truck at: http://www.geocities.com/low69cst/
Future Automotive Engineer attending the University of Kentucky.
Feel free to message me on AOL, SN- SS95ZQ8
My Dad's projects:
72 Short Fleet 4x4 Chyenne Super
72 Long Fleet 4x4 Chyenne Super
Both 350 autos restored original

BobbyK · 03-30-2002, 03:58 AM

Ya I think that's the way to go.If I ever to decide on power windows or locks I'll go with one of these.Good luck.

------------------
"71"blazer,rust free(bought in Arizona),350SBC
(375HP),700R4,factory G.M. TPI.Living in Santa Barbara,California.Ongoing project.

tim m · 03-30-2002, 09:10 PM

Where can I find those pin conectors, they look like they would be perfect for what I want to do to my truck.

BobbyK · 03-31-2002, 06:54 AM

painless wireing has them,here's the link. http://www.painlesswiring.com/connectr.htm

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"71"blazer,rust free(bought in Arizona),350SBC
(375HP),700R4,factory G.M. TPI.Living in Santa Barbara,California.Ongoing project.

Slammed67 · 03-31-2002, 10:41 AM

This may be a stupid question, but what good would those do with power locks? The only time you could lock the doors would be when the door is closed. When I park my car, I open the door, push the door lock switch, and then get out and close the door. You couldn't do that with those connectors. Am I missing something here?

------------------
Current project: The "HACKstoration" 1967 GMC shortbed/fleetside, 350/700R4, air bag suspension, 18" billet wheels. Other vehicle of interest: 1957 Chevy Bel-Air 4dr hard top, 283/powerglide, lowered 3-1/2" in front and 2 inches in the rear.

Web Site: jaySpot.com AOL Screen Name: Slammed67GMC Location: Kansas City, MO

*racedvl* · 03-31-2002, 10:48 AM

You could pull the fenders off..........

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http://hometown.aol.com/racedvl/racedvl69index.html

Woodstock,IL.northwest of Chicago

It's not what you buy, it's what you build!!

I did not climb to the top of the food chain, to become a vegetarian.

For some pics of my truck.

O'l Buck · 03-31-2002, 11:03 AM

Unless there is an aftermarket door lock mechanism that I'm not familiar with, the power locks aren't going to do you much good unless you use a remote lock. The doors are designed to lock from the outside with the key, right?? I know if I lock mine and close the door, they unlock themselves, have to be locked with the key.

------------------
'72 Chevy 1/2T 4x4 shortbox stepside 350/350auto on '84
ralleys and 31/10.5s

67 Cutlass convertible
330, 3spd stick

90 GMC Jimmy
350/auto
Chad Stephens
Orleans,NE

TERRYP · 03-31-2002, 11:48 AM

Well, O'lBuick, just how long have you owned GM cars, anyway?
The problem with those seemingly nifty 'button' contacts is getting them to mate up evenly, and not stick out and be a big eyesore. I used them years ago, and spent almost 2 extra days on fabricating little boxes to attach to the pillars and doors to make a half-way presentable appearance. Look at the large rubber accordian style boots used on newer cars at the junk yards. Also, using finer stranded wire for more flexability is a big help, as I have locks, windows, speakers and mirror wires from door to pillar. 'Softer' wire and boots is the only way to go.

------------------
Everett, Washington
57 3/4 rat, 235, 3spd
66 C-10 Panel, SWB. 350 from '68, 200R4 tranny, 3.55 rear ratio, restoring
68 C10 LWB 250 from '66 4spd, dump runner
82 Camaro, 305, THM-200-R4
84 Monte Carlo 305 TH350, land tuna
85 Tercel SW, snow runner

Low69CST · 03-31-2002, 03:54 PM

After a weekend of examinning my cab, I got looking at the door jam area. I don't think the contacts would work that good because the cab jam and the door jams don't look like they mate that well. I think I could drill a hole and run the wire into the vent cavity, then drill another hole out the outside of the cab, where the vent cavity protrudes from the door piller, then use one of those rubber tube thiings to extend from that to the door jam. Where is the best place to get the door lock kit at? LMC has a universal kit, but I don't know about their quality.

------------------
'69 CST Short fleetside
Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 3" dual exhaust, 40 series Flowmasters, 4 wheel disc brakes, all stainless hard and flex lines, front & rear sway bars, Dana 9 1/4" rear end 4.11's w/Detroit Locker, soon to have 18" rims
Not my daily driver. More like my weekend A$$ KICKER.
See my truck at: http://www.geocities.com/low69cst/
Future Automotive Engineer attending the University of Kentucky.
Feel free to message me on AOL, SN- SS95ZQ8
My Dad's projects:
72 Short Fleet 4x4 Chyenne Super
72 Long Fleet 4x4 Chyenne Super
Both 350 autos restored original

DarkFox1 · 03-31-2002, 08:44 PM

this is a question I've long pondered myself. The wall looks so thin that itwould be very difficult to drill and run wires through. Those contact things work well, I saw a show on TV put them in a belair, but what happens when you need to roll down yer window and your doors open? heh, a weird situation but its happened to me before.

------------------
Projects
Belair '71 C10 LWB to SWB conversion:C10 project page
65Chevelle pics coming soon

03-30-2002, 01:15 AM	#1
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	how did you run wires for power door locks? When you run wires for power door locks, I know you should drill a hole in the door jam and drill one in the door, then run a rubber connector to run the wires through. My question is how do you get the wire down into the jam? Do you go in through the vent cavity behind the kick pannel? Thanks ------------------ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 3" dual exhaust, 40 series Flowmasters, 4 wheel disc brakes, all stainless hard and flex lines, front & rear sway bars, Dana 9 1/4" rear end 4.11's w/Detroit Locker, soon to have 18" rims Not my daily driver. More like my weekend A$$ KICKER. See my truck at: http://www.geocities.com/low69cst/ Future Automotive Engineer attending the University of Kentucky. Feel free to message me on AOL, SN- SS95ZQ8 My Dad's projects: 72 Short Fleet 4x4 Chyenne Super 72 Long Fleet 4x4 Chyenne Super Both 350 autos restored original __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks

03-30-2002, 03:58 AM	#2
BobbyK Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,Mi. Posts: 1,772	Ya I think that's the way to go.If I ever to decide on power windows or locks I'll go with one of these.Good luck. ------------------ "71"blazer,rust free(bought in Arizona),350SBC (375HP),700R4,factory G.M. TPI.Living in Santa Barbara,California.Ongoing project. __________________ 71 blazer,350SBC,approx.375HP,700R4,factory GM TPI.Dual electric fans,33x12.5x15 ATR on stock suspension. Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,MI. See ALL my Blazer pic's HERE

03-30-2002, 09:10 PM	#3
tim m Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Gilbert Az Posts: 286	Where can I find those pin conectors, they look like they would be perfect for what I want to do to my truck. __________________ 1970 k10 1971 C10 Gilbert Az

03-31-2002, 06:54 AM	#4
BobbyK Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,Mi. Posts: 1,772	painless wireing has them,here's the link. http://www.painlesswiring.com/connectr.htm ------------------ "71"blazer,rust free(bought in Arizona),350SBC (375HP),700R4,factory G.M. TPI.Living in Santa Barbara,California.Ongoing project. __________________ 71 blazer,350SBC,approx.375HP,700R4,factory GM TPI.Dual electric fans,33x12.5x15 ATR on stock suspension. Petrolia,Ontario,Canada but working in Port Huron,MI. See ALL my Blazer pic's HERE

03-31-2002, 10:41 AM	#5
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	This may be a stupid question, but what good would those do with power locks? The only time you could lock the doors would be when the door is closed. When I park my car, I open the door, push the door lock switch, and then get out and close the door. You couldn't do that with those connectors. Am I missing something here? ------------------ Current project: The "HACKstoration" 1967 GMC shortbed/fleetside, 350/700R4, air bag suspension, 18" billet wheels. Other vehicle of interest: 1957 Chevy Bel-Air 4dr hard top, 283/powerglide, lowered 3-1/2" in front and 2 inches in the rear. Web Site: jaySpot.com AOL Screen Name: Slammed67GMC Location: Kansas City, MO __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

03-31-2002, 10:48 AM	#6
racedvl Account Suspended Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Woodstock, IL Posts: 7,020	You could pull the fenders off.......... ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/racedvl/racedvl69index.html Woodstock,IL.northwest of Chicago It's not what you buy, it's what you build!! I did not climb to the top of the food chain, to become a vegetarian. For some pics of my truck.

03-31-2002, 11:03 AM	#7
O'l Buck Recovering Truck Driver Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Orleans, NE USA Posts: 1,883	Unless there is an aftermarket door lock mechanism that I'm not familiar with, the power locks aren't going to do you much good unless you use a remote lock. The doors are designed to lock from the outside with the key, right?? I know if I lock mine and close the door, they unlock themselves, have to be locked with the key. ------------------ '72 Chevy 1/2T 4x4 shortbox stepside 350/350auto on '84 ralleys and 31/10.5s 67 Cutlass convertible 330, 3spd stick 90 GMC Jimmy 350/auto Chad Stephens Orleans,NE __________________ 67 K-20 350, SM465, Eaton rear, 4.56 no spin option 00 Dodge 2500 4x4, 24V cummins, 5 speed Chad South Central Nebraska

03-31-2002, 11:48 AM	#8
TERRYP GYRO GEARLOOSE Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Nevada City, CAEverett, WA Posts: 361	Well, O'lBuick, just how long have you owned GM cars, anyway? The problem with those seemingly nifty 'button' contacts is getting them to mate up evenly, and not stick out and be a big eyesore. I used them years ago, and spent almost 2 extra days on fabricating little boxes to attach to the pillars and doors to make a half-way presentable appearance. Look at the large rubber accordian style boots used on newer cars at the junk yards. Also, using finer stranded wire for more flexability is a big help, as I have locks, windows, speakers and mirror wires from door to pillar. 'Softer' wire and boots is the only way to go. ------------------ Everett, Washington 57 3/4 rat, 235, 3spd 66 C-10 Panel, SWB. 350 from '68, 200R4 tranny, 3.55 rear ratio, restoring 68 C10 LWB 250 from '66 4spd, dump runner 82 Camaro, 305, THM-200-R4 84 Monte Carlo 305 TH350, land tuna 85 Tercel SW, snow runner __________________ Nevada City, CA Everett, Washington 57 3/4 rat, 235, 3spd 66 C-10 Panel, SWB. 350 from '68, 200R4 tranny, 3.07 rear ratio, restoring 68 C10 LWB 350 4spd, 4.56 rear dump runner 82 Camaro, 305, THM-200-R4 84 Monte Carlo 305 TH350, land tuna 85 Tercel SW, snow runner DISGRACED OUTLAW MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB

03-31-2002, 03:54 PM	#9
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	After a weekend of examinning my cab, I got looking at the door jam area. I don't think the contacts would work that good because the cab jam and the door jams don't look like they mate that well. I think I could drill a hole and run the wire into the vent cavity, then drill another hole out the outside of the cab, where the vent cavity protrudes from the door piller, then use one of those rubber tube thiings to extend from that to the door jam. Where is the best place to get the door lock kit at? LMC has a universal kit, but I don't know about their quality. ------------------ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 3" dual exhaust, 40 series Flowmasters, 4 wheel disc brakes, all stainless hard and flex lines, front & rear sway bars, Dana 9 1/4" rear end 4.11's w/Detroit Locker, soon to have 18" rims Not my daily driver. More like my weekend A$$ KICKER. See my truck at: http://www.geocities.com/low69cst/ Future Automotive Engineer attending the University of Kentucky. Feel free to message me on AOL, SN- SS95ZQ8 My Dad's projects: 72 Short Fleet 4x4 Chyenne Super 72 Long Fleet 4x4 Chyenne Super Both 350 autos restored original __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks

03-31-2002, 08:44 PM	#10
DarkFox1 in WAY over my head Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Douglasville GA Posts: 923	this is a question I've long pondered myself. The wall looks so thin that itwould be very difficult to drill and run wires through. Those contact things work well, I saw a show on TV put them in a belair, but what happens when you need to roll down yer window and your doors open? heh, a weird situation but its happened to me before. ------------------ Projects Belair '71 C10 LWB to SWB conversion:C10 project page 65Chevelle pics coming soon



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