Upgraded cab insulation discussion
 

Continuing with the fire damage, I ended up stripping the firewall engine side to metal with wire wheel and epoxy prime.
The interior side of firewall got so hot it charcoaled the jute insulation of the center section OEM pad and a bit of the inside cowl jute and a small part of the left pad in area of gas pedal. A question for those who have upgraded the insulation. Was it worth it? Does laying the rubberized material behind the gas tank add any benefit? Floor? The cab is gutted except tank. Now is the time to do the extra insulation if it is worth it. I need to watch my add-ons to this repair or a blown bank account could easily come about. Seems this stuff does add up so I am looking for input.
Thanks for help

Re: Upgraded cab insulation discussion
 

No opinions?

Re: Upgraded cab insulation discussion
 

I did a build from scratch, so the inner firewall was bare metal. I used Lizard Skin heat coating as well as the sound deadener coating. I also glued on 3/8" thick jute insulation with the foil on both sides, as high as I could get it up under the dash.
I don't have a comparison, but it's cool and quiet.
In your case, if it was me, I would use the self adhesive (Dynamat, Fat Mat, etc) then perhaps add a layer of ¼" jute over that everywhere it was feasible.

Re: Upgraded cab insulation discussion
 

This is what my 68 Cab looked like before the carpet went down. First layer was Hush Mat. Second layer is double sided foil jute insulation. Then the stock carpet. I'm running headers with my LS swaps and I think it really helps.
Also under the cab over the header area I use insulation from DEI. One side is kind of like a dimpled foil. Then in the middle kind of a fiberglass insulation and then super sticky glue to stick it to the sheet metal.

Re: Upgraded cab insulation discussion
 

I used Dynamat on my Blazer. It is quieter in the cabin than it ever was!

Re: Upgraded cab insulation discussion
 

I sprayed the interior of my 72 C20 with lizard skin sound deadener and also the heat barrier. Then I applied a layer of the Flat Line Barrier. My carpet with jute backing over all of this. Best thing I ever did for the interior of the truck. It is now super quiet and virtually no floorboard or firewall heat from the exhaust or engine. I run headers with 3" exhaust and 40 series flow masters. No problem talking to anyone and I don't have to crank the radio up to listen to it.

Re: Upgraded cab insulation discussion
 

Really good input. The lizard skin product under the dynamat sounds like a really nice way to go. I would be looking at 500 plus for the lizard and gun and another 250 for the dynamat. Then the jute and carpet. I am not sure I want a Cadillac truck relative to noise isolation. Heat is more my issue. I prefer engine over music noise anyway.

Re: Upgraded cab insulation discussion
 

Used the Lizard Skin heat product and also the sound formula then applied a Quiet Ride Solutions firewall cover. Pics start on page 11, post 259 in my build thread. The sound treatment should go on the metal first and any heat product applied over that for best results.

Re: Upgraded cab insulation discussion
 

.

p/o of my truck had laid down the home store roll of kill-matt stuff. It didn't do anything for heat so on top of that I put a layer of foil-on-both sides insulation (not expensive) and topped it with the full jute backed carpeting.

This and later sealing up firewall leaks and the kick vents tamped down the heat problem pretty good!

-Kevin

Re: Upgraded cab insulation discussion
 

I'm sure this is too late, but Lizard skin is paint with ceramic beads.
I bought the ceramic beads and mixed it with a qt of Rust-Oleum latex paint.
Put it on with a mini roller and brush. It dried with a light sandy texture.
It creates a radiate barrier that reflects heat. Its tough as nails even with latex paint on my 1973 international build, I've since added 5/8 thick dense vinyl foam padding for more insulation.

I too added the DEI like LS Short Box. to my 1971 chevy build on the fire wall and tranny tunnel as a radiate barrier works best under the vehicle.

On the cheaper side, you can use foiled foam core
You need to use spray glue to attached to the underside. I then covered it with foil tape to give it more durability, it still there 10 years later.. 1973 international build

Re: Upgraded cab insulation discussion
 

One thing to save cash is that Dynomat type products work to reduce noise generated by flat sheetmetal panels. So you only need to cover those areas, not ever square inch of the cab. Panels with compound curves are virtually vibration free and won't resonate sound.
If in doubt tap the part of the panel if it sounds dead it's likely it won't resonate sound.