[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by fastwillie 696969

i agree and dont count the threads on the pinion and try to match the lineup marks ,you need to set the back lash also i would change the crush sleeve as well
The four essential differential adjustments are pinion depth, pinion bearing preload, backlash and carrier bearing preload.

Although I always recommend that rearend work be performed by a professional.....this is not necessarily one of those cases.

While the above "Copy & Paste" is accurate, most of it is irrelevant....

The only one of those adjustments that can possibly change with a pinion seal install is the pinion bearing preload.....and it takes a lot more torque than you would think to crush the sleeve.
None of the rest of those details matter at all in this case. If they are already wrong, there is nothing that you can do about it now anyway.

Pop the yoke off, swap the seal, and put it all back together. Torque the nut to about 75 ft-lbs with red Lock-Tite and run it. That is plenty of torque to keep the nut tight and not nearly enough to crush the sleeve any more.

The whole in-lb "rotation" thing is based on a completely stripped housing, no carrier, axles, or seal.....and that is for new bearings. Used are going to be looser anyway....and it is not advisable to "mess with" trying to tighten them up.

The real issue here is that you may already be "too late". If the pinion seal is leaking, the bearings may already be shot....which kills the seal in the first place.