Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeSL2
I am moving my fuel tank from the cab to under the bed and plan to do a 6.0 Swap later on down the road. I have a lot of stuff to do the swap, but not all of it. My question is, do I need to do anything to the tank to prep it for the LQ swap, or can I run it like it comes. I need to know very soon because I am swapping the tanks out very soon and want to do it right the first time. I really don't want to have to take the tank out later if I don't have to.
James
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There are a few factors involved here. I'll try and cover all the bases, but I haven't finished my coffee yet...
The 6.0 (or any LS) swap takes either a factory style pump that lives in-tank or a Walbro external that will give you 60 psi at the rails.
The Walbro external pump can suck fuel from the bottom of the tank, no mods needed. It is cheaper than a (new) factory style fuel sender, doesn't come with a level sender, is easier to replace and will not generally live as long as a fuel pump that is submerged in fuel. Heat is the main reason for that, vibration possibly another, quality also possible. OEM = King for reliability, most of the time.
The factory style basket pump will need a hole cut in the top of the tank & adapter ring welded to the tank to bolt it down. Vetteworks makes pump adapter kits that run around 75 bucks shipped and use the readily-available LS1 camaro fuel sender. Now for the catch: depending on tank depth, you may not be able to run the Camaro fuel module (pump + gauge sender) on less than 1/2 or 1/4 a tank of gas. It's about a 10" tall sender, so check that against your tank & see what's going to work.
Another consideration in your fuel setup is whether your motor will have a return line at the fuel rail or not. I think up until 2004 the truck motors all had a return line at the rail. After that, the returns were closer to the tank. Location of the return line is going to dictate your filter setup - camaro LS1 or 2004 Corvette "C5" filter. Either way, you'll need a return line on top of the tank.
A lot of guys, including me, use the '71 Mustang 22 gallon tank. Honestly, I wouldn't reccomend it. Any money I saved has long gone out the window in chopping on my frame to make it fit & fiddling with spacers & **** to mount it. I have long wished I'd gone with a custom for-the-truck-I'm-putting-it-in tank for $400, drilled 4 holes & been done with it. I'd have a filler on the rear fender, a more-stock frame & been done with that part of it.
Anyway, you've got options. One of them is to get a return line on top of the tank before you install it, put a line on the return that you can reach, tape it off & connect it when you get to the 6.0 swap, using a Walbro thats taking fuel off the bottom of the tank same as your carb. Just make sure you update fuel lines to handle the increased pressure.