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Old 09-21-2016, 01:47 AM   #1185
gringoloco
A guy with a truck
 
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Germany, for now
Posts: 5,921
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus350 View Post
Very nice truck I love this build. When you changed to the longer Dorman wheel studs did you end up having to use a longer or deeper lug nut. Thanks.
I'm in the same boat with my Boss 338 and rear disc I'm getting about 5-6 turns to tite.

Thanks Kevin
Thanks! Same lug nuts, though I did have to enlarge the holes in the axle to fit the studs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shores6 View Post
Can't wait to see the new setup!
Me too! All of the NoLimit stuff is here already--received the rear coilovers today. Now just waiting on the PB crossmember and arms. Still need to figure out what rack I want to use. I've been advised that the quick ratio (2.5 turns) is too twitchy with the dropmember. Dave suggests using the standard 3.0 turns version, which was offered on 4-cylinder Mustangs. I've got an idea to use the 03-04 Cobra rack, as it's basically the pinnacle of the Mustang II/Fox rack design, with tight, crisp feel, but I definitely don't want the twitchiness.
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
‘07 Yukon Denali (daily)

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