View Single Post
Old 06-05-2002, 01:52 PM   #15
Slammed67
Progress = 0%
 
Slammed67's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 2,108
Arrow

Here is how Sanderson recommends installing their headers (this is for the header to head). I have mine instlalled, but haven't started the engine yet, so I can't really say how good/bad it works.


1, 2, 3, ......

4. The heads must be perfectly clean. Remove all traces of carbon, old gasket material and other debris starting with a scraper and single edge razor blade. Finish with a wire brush and a final polish with a Scotch-Briteš or similar abrasive pad. Wipe all mounting surfaces with acetone (Flammable!).

5. Install two studs, one in each end of the head to align the flange.

6. Coat the contact surfaces of the built-up weld rings on the back of the header flange with Permatex Ultra Black RTV, then slide the header over the studs.

7. Starting with the ones that are hardest to reach, install all header bolts finger tight. Remove studs and install end bolts. Working from the center, alternating left to right, snug up the bolts to 10-12 ft. lbs. torque with a short box end wrench. We sell a special thin wall Snap-Onš wrench that's really handy for the job.

8. Fire up the motor, run for five minutes, and let cool completely.

9. Retighten the bolts, being careful not to overtighten them. Drive the car 10 to 20 minutes -- not hard or at freeway speeds.

10. Let the motor cool, then tighten the bolts again. Take the car out for 20 to 30 minutes, this time at speeds between 50 and 60 mph.

11. When motor is completely cool, check bolts for tightness. Drive 75 to 100 miles, cool down, then recheck. Repeat this procedure until bolts stay tight.
__________________
Jason - '67 GMC swb | '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop | '56 210 4dr Wagon | 2000 GMC Sierra
Slammed67 is offline   Reply With Quote