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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: wallingford,ct
Posts: 121
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I think I'm gona weld em up!! I've tried paper,aluminum,copper and earl's($22) that ripped when putting them in! and they lasted for about 6min any ideas?
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Fairmont WV
Posts: 304
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Are you talkin the gaskets between the exhaust manifold and the pipes?
If so, check your motor mounts. If they get too loose this seems to cause them to go bad pretty fast. I have the same thing going on.
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Rod Childers '71 C10 Stepside |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 7,721
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Sounds like you have discovered the joy of headers. I LOVE my 2 1/2" no-leak rams horns
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44 Willys MB 52 M38A1 64 Corvette Coupe 68 Camaro 'vert LT1 & TH700 69 Z/28 355 12.6's @110 69 Chevy Short Step 4 1/2"/7" drop 72 Jimmy 4WD 4spd 4" & 35's 02 GMC 2500HD 4x4 Duramax |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Wingate NC
Posts: 456
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some high temp copper atv sealant seems to work on my headers when nothing else will.
Just put on enough to stop the leak and then trim the rest off so it dosent look bad. Or you may want to try and run 2 of the dead soft aluminum gaskets on top of each other. ![]()
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Life is good with a 6-71 supercharged 355 in a 72 camaro ![]() |
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#5 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: SOMERSET KY.
Posts: 6,427
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junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. ![]() LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Fairmont WV
Posts: 304
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Sorry, thought you had manifolds. Read on, headers are a PIA. Get some Ram horns, thats what I did. The small leaks I have around the gasket is nothing like the ones aginst the head with headers.
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Rod Childers '71 C10 Stepside |
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#7 |
Step Side's Rule
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: LEIGHTON,AL USA
Posts: 227
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I've had good luck doubling up the gaskets as well.
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DANO ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#8 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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I guess I am in the minority here, my cheap headers I had would blow the paper collecter gaskets, but you could blow one of them by farting on it. I put in some dead soft alluminum ones and never had another problem.
Now, with my super Comps, not had a single leak in the 18 or so months been driving it. Same collector gaskets too. I always fun manifold gaskets on the header to head. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Darrington, Washington
Posts: 3,963
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longhorn,im in your boat(dont push me out!)my 402 has 89.99 Flowtechs,never a leak,ive even uncorked them and used old gasket,no problems they were some Mr Gasket cheap ones,maybe a flange is bad?Tighten down evenly not cranking one down?Ive heard many bad things about sbc and headers,i personally would run the vette manifolds,but in a bbc requires headers
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: wallingford,ct
Posts: 121
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good point junkyardjohn they are cheaper headers. and I've tried the double up deal. I like the rtv idea. maybe I'll try it. buuuuttt weld iiisss cheaper than the $75 so far on gaskets and sawzall if I needed to disconect
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#11 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: East Central, MO
Posts: 11,336
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No problems!
I use manifold gaskets on the heads and paper on the collector. I also cut the headers, keeps the bolts tight. No leaks!
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#12 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: West Fork, Arkansas - Razorback Country
Posts: 1,826
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cut the header flanges....I guess that will keep the vibration down?
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Smooth68's Web Site WTB 64-66 project or frame/cab, SWB or LWB...I have the fever! Whatcha got?? '68 Short Step - Shaved Body, Soon Bagged - SOLD Driver-2004 GMC Z-71 Ext-cab |
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#13 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: East Central, MO
Posts: 11,336
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Yes!
Cutting the flanges works for keeping the bolts tight. Also makes installing easier. Gives u more movement to get the bolts started. And these silver manifold gaskets! Ive never had one leak. If you get the right kind of gaskets u can actually start all the bolts then just drop the gaskets into place.
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#14 |
Strongman Garage
![]() Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Salinas, CA
Posts: 10,241
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i also have 85 buck flowtech headers, i used the CHEAP gaskets supplied with the kit, dead soft almnium collector gaskets.... and cut the flanges..... no leaks
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#15 |
Progress = 0%
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 2,108
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Here is how Sanderson recommends installing their headers (this is for the header to head). I have mine instlalled, but haven't started the engine yet, so I can't really say how good/bad it works.
1, 2, 3, ...... 4. The heads must be perfectly clean. Remove all traces of carbon, old gasket material and other debris starting with a scraper and single edge razor blade. Finish with a wire brush and a final polish with a Scotch-Briteš or similar abrasive pad. Wipe all mounting surfaces with acetone (Flammable!). 5. Install two studs, one in each end of the head to align the flange. 6. Coat the contact surfaces of the built-up weld rings on the back of the header flange with Permatex Ultra Black RTV, then slide the header over the studs. 7. Starting with the ones that are hardest to reach, install all header bolts finger tight. Remove studs and install end bolts. Working from the center, alternating left to right, snug up the bolts to 10-12 ft. lbs. torque with a short box end wrench. We sell a special thin wall Snap-Onš wrench that's really handy for the job. 8. Fire up the motor, run for five minutes, and let cool completely. 9. Retighten the bolts, being careful not to overtighten them. Drive the car 10 to 20 minutes -- not hard or at freeway speeds. 10. Let the motor cool, then tighten the bolts again. Take the car out for 20 to 30 minutes, this time at speeds between 50 and 60 mph. 11. When motor is completely cool, check bolts for tightness. Drive 75 to 100 miles, cool down, then recheck. Repeat this procedure until bolts stay tight.
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Jason - '67 GMC swb | '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop | '56 210 4dr Wagon | 2000 GMC Sierra |
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