47-59 58 Apache 38 doesn't want to start

[studeclunker]

Just when you think it's fixed...

Okay, it won't start now. Refused to go yesterday and had to run my errands in the Boss' '97. Will have to again today. It started, ran like a top for about two minutes and died. Now the old man refuses to start. It's getting fuel, air, but spark... Kinda hard to tell. I can't get the jacket to slide up the wire to check the thing. Tried inserting a screwdriver up in there and setting it against the battery hold-down getting nothing. All this cranking to get the thing started first thing seems to be having its toll on the starter motor as it seems to be getting weaker and running the battery down rather quickly.

This starter is not one I am thinking will be widely available.

So, I figure a new coil is in order too?

Yeah, it has been my experience, takes about six months to work all the bugs out of these things.

[dsraven]

stock engine?
check fuses
check points, distributor cap and rotor
check for power at the coil
if you plan to keep it stock and the engine is in good shape it wouldn't hurt to do a tune up on it, plugs, wires, cap rotor, points and condensor, possibly a coil and ballast resistor
if you have a starter/alternator rebuild place close by you may be better served there for a starter than a rebuilt one from a parts house. it seems the quality of the rebuilt stuff has gone downhill sharply, like off a cliff kinda downhill.
these starters are tough but don't tollerate long crank times and overheating

[mr48chev]

We need some vehicle history here. What engine, and then what if anything was done before this no start thing happened?

Meaning= is this a truck that you have been driving and all the sudden it doesn't start?

Did you do any work on it before the no start condition happened?

Did you perhaps leave the key on for while lately?

First step is to Charge the battery. Nothing works well if the battery is run down.

Second is to get out the test light or multi meter and see if you have power to the + post on the coil when you have the key on.

Check and make sure that the resistor bypass wire from the starter to the coil is hooked up. It goes to the R post on V8 starters or key start starters and the post on the side of the foot stomp starter switch.

If you have power to the coil with the key on turn the key off and pop the cap off the distributor and check the points. either bump the engine over with the starter or by hand to see if they are opening and closing.
When you check the gap of the points make sure that the rubbing block on the contact arm (red arrow) is right on the tip of one of the lobes of the distributor cam. Look at the contacts to make sure that they aren't burned or crudded up. Gap should be right at .016

I am not a fan of the nonsense of taking a screwdriver and opening the points to see if a spark jumps across them as a spark is not supposed to jump across them when they open. when the points open the ground connection for the coils is broken and the low voltage from the coil should go through the condenser and not jump the points.

URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w71/mr48chev/(edited)_91c17ff9-7197-47b0-b262-2487e0b09d7b.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds][/URL]

[studeclunker]

Originally Posted by dsraven

stock engine?
check fuses
check points, distributor cap and rotor
check for power at the coil
if you plan to keep it stock and the engine is in good shape it wouldn't hurt to do a tune up on it, plugs, wires, cap rotor, points and condensor, possibly a coil and ballast resistor
if you have a starter/alternator rebuild place close by you may be better served there for a starter than a rebuilt one from a parts house. it seems the quality of the rebuilt stuff has gone downhill sharply, like off a cliff kinda downhill.
these starters are tough but don't tollerate long crank times and overheating

Yes, 235-6
I have yet to find a fuse block. It seems to have inline fuses and I haven't found all of them.
Everything inside the cap seems fine.
The ballast is mounted on the firewall on the opposite side of the bay from the coil and distributor (driver's side).
I'm not very good with doing tuneups. Usually I screw things up worse than they were before. I mean, I can gap plugs properly. However the points and such usually escape me.

Thanks for the pointer on the starter. We do have a fellow locally who does this, however getting him to do the work is a PITA. I really don't like doing business with him. All the same the the starter does seem to be getting a lot weaker. It's rather unenthusiastic about getting things going.

The fuel pump doesn't like to hold the fuel and thus must pump all the way up to the carb, or I have to prime things. However even that doesn't work right now. I don't think it's a fuel problem.

[studeclunker]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

We need some vehicle history here. What engine, and then what if anything was done before this no start thing happened?

Meaning= is this a truck that you have been driving and all the sudden it doesn't start?

Did you do any work on it before the no start condition happened?

Did you perhaps leave the key on for while lately?

First step is to Charge the battery. Nothing works well if the battery is run down.

Second is to get out the test light or multi meter and see if you have power to the + post on the coil when you have the key on.

Check and make sure that the resistor bypass wire from the starter to the coil is hooked up. It goes to the R post on V8 starters or key start starters and the post on the side of the foot stomp starter switch.

If you have power to the coil with the key on turn the key off and pop the cap off the distributor and check the points. either bump the engine over with the starter or by hand to see if they are opening and closing.
When you check the gap of the points make sure that the rubbing block on the contact arm (red arrow) is right on the tip of one of the lobes of the distributor cam. Look at the contacts to make sure that they aren't burned or crudded up. Gap should be right at .016

I am not a fan of the nonsense of taking a screwdriver and opening the points to see if a spark jumps across them as a spark is not supposed to jump across them when they open. when the points open the ground connection for the coils is broken and the low voltage from the coil should go through the condenser and not jump the points.

URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w71/mr48chev/(edited)_91c17ff9-7197-47b0-b262-2487e0b09d7b.png?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds][/URL]

bone stock 235-6 from factory.
Yes, this is a truck that I have been driving. I have been priming the carb because the fuel pump is not holding the prime when off. It is a recent acquisition though. with a touch of priming, it has been starting right up. However now it doesn't.
Also, it has been sitting a lot over the past few years. It has been started and run a bit on a regular basis.

Resistor Bypass wire? I suppose this is why I need a proper manual for this truck. What colour is it? Looks like I'll have to trace down the wires in and out of the resistor and see where they go. Studebakers are so much more straightforward than Chevys.

No, I haven't left the key on unattended at any time. Yes, I do know better.
Yes, I have been charging the battery and do so after each time it has been tried. When the truck actually has started, the Alternator (the one modification to the motor) has more than adequately recharged the battery.