Weld in flip door

[swamp rat]

I have a gas flip door from an S10 and want to install into my bedside.

I have debated the best way to approach this, should i make a circular hole in the bed side or a square hole? will a square hole be more prone to inducing warpage in the panel?

It was also suggested by my uncle to go buy a hand flanger tool, flange it and bond it in place but i don't really wanna spend any more money unless its somehow superior, already have a mig, any advice? Thanks!

[Grumpy old man]

You can buy a cheap flange tool from harbor freight ($40.00) and it would be much easier to cut a square hole than a round one ,measure your insert panel allow 3/4 inch inside and flange the truck panel this will ad ridgidity and prevent oil canning, use a 4 foot straight edge to maintain correct horizontal panel alignment ,cut gas filler panel to fit and tack weld and then check alignment and curveture of the body to maintain proper panel conture ,if correct continue tack weld ,grind , use panel adhesive to fill any gaps , grind , finish with normal body filler and prime/paint . if done correctly should look stock when done , poorly and you'll have a big flat spot on your truck bed ... be patient / measure 3 times and cut once ! You'll get it just take your time and do it once. none of this can be done in a COLD garage 70 degrees and up . With the correct tools and materials a good compressor and attention to alignment this is a 2 hour project not including paint prep .That gas door looks pretty flat make sure it has the same conture as the body before you do anything .

[MP&C]

Check out this flush mount on an IH Scout. If you could spend the time to make up similar dies to match your fuel door, it may save a bunch of welding (except for hinge, perhaps?) to save all the heat/warping issues in the middle of a panel..


http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=208839

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

none of this can be done in a COLD garage 70 degrees and up

Well i have a little problem then, i'm working in my driveway and i won't see temps in the 70's until August if i'm lucky...

Any more input on this is appreciated, i cant imagine folks in colder parts of the states not getting the work done.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by MP&C

Check out this flush mount on an IH Scout. If you could spend the time to make up similar dies to match your fuel door, it may save a bunch of welding (except for hinge, perhaps?) to save all the heat/warping issues in the middle of a panel..


http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=208839

I keep sayin i wish i had a lath!

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Well i have a little problem then, i'm working in my driveway and i won't see temps in the 70's until August if i'm lucky...

Any more input on this is appreciated, i cant imagine folks in colder parts of the states not getting the work done.

Build a garage first , nothing made for body work is happy below 65 degrees !

[Trsmotrhed]

I did the same fuel door install from a Tahoe. I cut a square out of the side of the Tahoe about an 1" bigger. Cleaned it up, transferred that size to my bed side, cut that out and welded in the donor door panel . Came out great.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Trsmotrhed

I did the same fuel door install from a Tahoe. I cut a square out of the side of the Tahoe about an 1" bigger. Cleaned it up, transferred that size to my bed side, cut that out and welded in the donor door panel . Came out great.

It looks great too! Thanks for the reply! Did you have to hand bend the couture a little to get it to match the bedside?

[Trsmotrhed]

I looked until I found one that had a little contour. The Tahoe was very close. As you said I did hand shape a little.

[swamp rat]

Thanks again Trsmotrhed!

[hugger6933]

First off It needs some warmth in some things for body work but let me just say this I had to heat my plasma cutter the first two days of last week before the PCU would let it turn on and the company had never had one in extremes that cold. If you heat metal and the filler or things similar going on it it will be fine. Now the flange tool, the only thing I use mine for is the opposite end of that head is a hole puncher and I can make the start of some spot weld holes with it. Once I have punched a panel I take a step drill bit and open the holes a couple more sizes to make a decent sized spot weld hole. That is the only worth I have found with that tool. If you put a flange on there no matter what you do to the body or how good your work is it will leave a shadow line of the flange. It also provides a trap for rust and isn't that what we are trying to get away from on these old trucks? Jim

[thelonerife]

Did I mess up by making mine round?

[Trsmotrhed]

Originally Posted by thelonerife

Did I mess up by making mine round?

That looks pretty good to me.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by thelonerife

Did I mess up by making mine round?

Did you mess up? Keep posting more pictures, show a shot from the back looking forward, Looks good to me.

[MP&C]

Originally Posted by thelonerife

Did I mess up by making mine round?

I've found that having a consistent width of your "inset" panel to the door opening, without having any sharp corners, will provide best results. For a square door, a square cutout with radiused corners, and for a round door with finger tab like you show, the egg shape is about perfect. For a completely round with no finger pull, a round cutout. Weld dots, planish, grind, repeat..

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by thelonerife

Did I mess up by making mine round?

I'd love to see more pic's as you go as far as filler tube, mods ect.

I'm planning on having the center line of the door on the same plane with the center line of the marker lamp

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by thelonerife

Did I mess up by making mine round?

I don't think so, especially for a round door.....I would put significant rounding on a square opening too. I would avoid "points" on patches of any shape.

[thelonerife]

Originally Posted by Trsmotrhed

That looks pretty good to me.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Did you mess up? Keep posting more pictures, show a shot from the back looking forward, Looks good to me.

I'll post more in my build thread below

Originally Posted by MP&C

I've found that having a consistent width of your "inset" panel to the door opening, without having any sharp corners, will provide best results. For a square door, a square cutout with radiused corners, and for a round door with finger tab like you show, the egg shape is about perfect. For a completely round with no finger pull, a round cutout. Weld dots, planish, grind, repeat..

So I guess I didn't mess up. It 's hard to planish with the inner panel in the way.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I'd love to see more pic's as you go as far as filler tube, mods ect.

Check out my build thread. I'm sure I'll put it in there.

I'm planning on having the center line of the door on the same plane with the center line of the marker lamp

I thought about that but I wanted to get it as low as I could so the tube in the bed wouldn't be so big.

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

I don't think so, especially for a round door.....I would put significant rounding on a square opening too. I would avoid "points" on patches of any shape.

Thanks for your input. I have aftermarket bed sides and of corse the metal is thinner than original. I am battling flat spots. I got two out tonight but I'm not done welding it in. I weld,then blow it with an air hose, and go to the opposite side and weld blow, repeat.

[amberkalvin]

I'm a semi noob when it comes to sheetmetal fab but I do know (from going to wyotech for street rod custom fab) that square points have a tendency to suck in more than going with a round shape. I imagine if and when I do anything like this I will always run with something circular in shape.

Looks good! Keep it up.